Member Since: 29 Apr 2005
Location: Derry City
Posts: 610
2.7 TDV6 Rebuild
Spotted this on YouTube.
Interesting watch..
14th Sep 2019 9:18 am
sutty2006
Member Since: 02 Jun 2016
Location: stoke on trent
Posts: 135
I’d be interested to see if instead of the valves bending it’s just shot the camshaft upwards out of the head. Keep us posted with his next videos!
14th Sep 2019 11:29 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
14th Sep 2019 5:35 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
Very interesting and many thks for the link
14th Sep 2019 6:31 pm
Philip1972
Member Since: 10 Mar 2017
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 1072
Where is the next one?
14th Sep 2019 7:14 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
He said it’s gonna be a while.
Job to finish and then remove body.
I love his confidence.
14th Sep 2019 7:17 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
20th Sep 2019 8:01 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
U got a notification as well then pete
Just watching it , also saw what looks like a body strut on the sport , assume that’s what the front chassis outrigger is for where nothing is attached on the D3
really interesting video
20th Sep 2019 8:24 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
That oil pump cover looks like one of the cheap copies as it has the reinforcement bit but still broke
Know u guys will know better
20th Sep 2019 8:49 pm
knwatkins
Member Since: 19 Sep 2018
Location: Poole, Dorset
Posts: 716
gstuart wrote:
U got a notification as well then pete
Just watching it , also saw what looks like a body strut on the sport , assume that’s what the front chassis outrigger is for where nothing is attached on the D3
really interesting video
I've been following this chap also. Very interesting.
Strangely enough, that front strut isn't actually needed Gary. A bit of further info for those that are interested...Land Rover issued a tech bulletin back in 2008 (LTB00123) to remove the front body dampers from vehicles that were fitted with dynamic response (anti-roll bars with hydraulic rams in them). Mine is a 2010 with dynamic response and whilst I have them fitted on the rear I do not have them on the front. The holes are still there though.Kev
MY2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
MY2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey
20th Sep 2019 9:46 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
Indeed also very interesting , can’t believe he’s got away with so much In just a few valves
Assume he will change all the oil valve sleeve caps whilst the heads are off
Many thks for the info ref That strut
Wonder if he’ll do the turbo mod whilst the body is removed
20th Sep 2019 9:54 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Turbo mod ?
The oil drain is only for 3.0 models afaik
20th Sep 2019 10:24 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
Hi
Ah i see, many thks , it was ref changing the studs on the turbo
20th Sep 2019 11:02 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Arh did wonder that.
When he has a lift, not a worry
I’m sure there are a few other things u disconnect for body lift.
Steering
Gear selector and epb emergency release
Last edited by Pete K on 21st Sep 2019 8:53 am. Edited 1 time in total
20th Sep 2019 11:18 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13598
Indeed and would be awesome to have a lift
I also wondered that about the gear-lever etc and a lot more to be disconnect inside
Found a complete list and indeed looks very involved and to be honest doesn’t surprise me being such a big job , but then having the opportunity to get to everything
Under Engine Bay (1 hour)
Support front on jack stands (jack stand points (not marked) are just as the chassis rails narrow)
Remove belly pans
Detach oil sensor (pinch top and lever gently w/ large flat blade screwdriver)
Drain oil
Remove engine sump
Remove oil pick-up pipe (wear condom over head/face)
Under Gearbox (2 hours)
Front prop shaft (transfer case to front diff) off (no need to remove rear prop shaft). Propshaft cannot be finally removed without removing exhaust (front section) first.
Leave the car in ‘Park’ and and after removing accessible inverse torx bolts move to neutral rotate shaft and then in park again (so you can access/remove all the bolts without the shaft rotating)
The propshaft is a what I am going to describe (probably incorrectly) as a ‘clamshell fitting’. There are grease retainers at either end which have nothing to do with the retention of the join. You need to smack the steel at either end join mid-point (barely visible) from below with a hammer and quite sharp coal chisel to ‘break’ the join at both ends… compress and remove after exhaust front section is detached.
Consider if you are happy to leave the car in neutral for the rest of the job (we did) … you will probably conclude that you will hire a 2 post lift for a day or 2 to take the body off and reinstall the engine that way… unless you are certifiably ‘nuts’. Not sure if it is simple matter to get the car out of park (or handbrake off) after all the electrics are disconnected. Remember you need to have your foot on the brake to move b/w park and neutral (so this solenoid would also need to be ‘live’).
Engine Bay (4 hours)
Bonnet – remove gas strut retainers, dislodge struts and lift 90 degrees and engage maintenance retainers at mount
Where the bonnet struts attach to the body there is a hole that runs right down through the mudguard panel. Anything dropped down there is irretrievable so tape it up NOW. Tape little strut retainers to this so you don't lose them.
Fan off
Grill off - look under the grill horizontal slats - there are 2x plastic flanges - flex these and pull grill gently out
Radiator out (undo bottom mounts and lift-up through top mounts and then under and out)
Disconnect fuel lines
Disconnect all pipes/hoses from radiator/intercooler
Pass side - Remove battery and half tray (3 bolts)
(leave as many pipes/hoses as possible attached trying to figure out which way each pipe/hose attaches and sits may be difficult)
Drivers side – remove air box and half tray
Remove plastic wheel arch liner (see below for procedure) Note my brother did this bit and I’m not sure if he concluded he needed to in the end – see how you go.
Disconnect lower and upper steering UJ bolts (inverse torx) remove – belt with hammer & coal chisel from underneath. JLR recommend to use new bolts to refit – they seem to recommend this on just about everything although not sure I am game to try to prove them wrong here.
In case of low height engine crane – we didn’t do this (1 hour)
Lights out (lift long retainers vertically 2x each light - only about 1cm - not too far)
Front slam panel
Remember you can lower the car to the discs if you take off the front wheels
(you might want to wait until the engine is half out to make this decision)
Access to lower radiator mount bolts is more difficult with this left on.
Under Gearbox (3 hours)
Undo intermediate crossmember (remove 4x bolts at sides - leave cross-member insitu w/gearbox) and support (jack) gearbox/crossmember then lower as far as possible. (the engine flexs on it’s mounts – and the rear prop shaft is uni-jointed/can flex)
Remove exhaust bolts x3 (13mm single hex socket) and turbo bracket to bell housing. Think only 1 heat shield needs to be removed for access. Remove from one rubber mount and work front section of exhaust loose (can be left insitu and moved around recess for access to bell housing bolts, finally remove front prop shaft)
Bell housing and exhaust x-over mounts (4-8 hours 2x people)
Remove exhaust crossover mounts 2 x 10mm each side plus 2x10mm at the top of housing. Top bolts can be reached (apparently with fixed head ratchet spanner – the flexible head version of this spanner makes it difficult to push on bolt at reach) otherwise via 3ft extension from behind the (now lowered) gearbox/transfer case.
Remove all bell housing bolts – 4x top ones with 3ft extension from behind gearbox (no uni or multi joint- better ‘feel’ – 2x person job). Upper side ones with 2x multi joint or combined multi plus uni joints.
Bell housing must be completely free of any bolts (including turbo bracket)
Jack transmission and cross-member back into place and insert at least one bolt and nut either side.
Access to passenger side engine mount bolt (3 hours)
Remove wheel-arch plastic liner (for the 2 part plastic fixings remover inner part of the fixing with a sharp flat screwdriver and then remove outer sheath with same) Loosen wheel arch external plastic moulding to remove
Remove heat shielding in wheel arch 2x (just behind centre of front wheel)
May need to remove brake line and sensor wires from bracket for better access
Disconnect steel power steering pipe from engine (if you don’t do this you can’t access the turbo hose bolt – per JLR don’t bend it to gain access (flow restriction) – you won’t get this hose out without the steel turbo hose and PAS pump coming out simultaneously)
Remove Power steering pump (5x bolts – 3x front and 2x side from under wheel arch)
Remove steel turbo hose (1x clamp at small turbo hose - under wheel arch – 1x bolt to engine accessed thru wheel arch) pull forward to remove
Note: you can be pretty comfortable just to remove any bolt you can see from inside the wheel arch … err … and some you can’t!
Note: other than the replacing the exhaust crossover and top bell housing bolts this is the other job I can’t imagine repeating properly in reverse
Removing engine from Gearbox at torque converter (2 hours)
Remove Starter for access
Reposition fuel cooler (pull it off the mount and detach 2x pipes to engine)
Detach positive (red) lead (set aside -insitu)
2x bolts at front of starter (accessed rear of housing)
2x side bolts
Wiggle starter out
When clear and nearly out remove black negative lead
Detach engine from torque converter
Use breaker bar and rotate crank until bolt appears through starter head (smaller) recess
Use 2ft/3ft extension from front engine bay (now clear) 4x torque converter bolts (impact driver works well here)
Remove Engine Mount Nuts
Use 2’ extension straight down from top.
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