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2nd Batteries
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CG
 


Member Since: 13 Nov 2007
Location: In the middle somewhere
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England 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3
2nd Batteries

Just supposing I decide not to go charging down a mountain side or bounce across the sahara. I fail to see why a yellow top Optima battery is the preferred choice over a reasonably good quality leisure battery which is some £50 cheaper. - or am I missing something.?
 
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Post #36236520th Oct 2008 1:24 pm
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Jambo
 


Member Since: 01 May 2008
Location: Cumbria
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United Kingdom 2009 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

Good question Shiny Moose. I have been considering getting a second battery fitted and have read many recommendations about yellow top Optima, but it would be an expensive job. I'd also be interested in hearing opinions from those in the know.
  
Post #36237520th Oct 2008 1:49 pm
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PaulP
 


Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
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Spain 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Buckingham BlueDiscovery 3

I've just recently spent a whole 4 quid Shocked on ordering the LR brackets and bolts from TLO and was thinking the same the other day.

As long as the 'leisure' battery can handle constant deep discharge situations (steady on ND Laughing ), and it's power rating is enough for what you need, then I guess it would be ok.

Based upon the experience of people that have done lots of expeditions (mainly desert), the Yellow Tops have always seemed to give fantastic results and have a very good reputation worldwide for not failing when you most need them.

I will shortly be buying a 2nd battery and it will be a Yellow Top Rolling Eyes I know....I'm a sucker for marketing, but it just gives me peace of mind and I guess that it what is important in a second battery Thumbs Up
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Post #36237720th Oct 2008 1:49 pm
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Ent
 


Member Since: 12 Oct 2007
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I think ,but could be wrong, its something to do with the high charging voltage from a D3 alternator that some batteries dont like but Yellow Top's seem to handle with no problems.
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Post #36238220th Oct 2008 2:01 pm
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tanters
 


Member Since: 24 Oct 2007
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I recently payed out for the whole Aux battery set up with 4 power points - great job and well worth it I think. No desert exhibitions on the horizon just yet tho Whistle


Anyway the merits of the yellow top has mainly to do with the discharge levels and its ability to recover to full performance even if it is run down to the last.


There is a certain poster on here who advised I use one and after seeing his work and picking his brains on wide range of D3 topics I would have to say if he says its the dogs danglies, then it can be taken as gospel.
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Post #36238320th Oct 2008 2:05 pm
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PaulP
 


Member Since: 04 May 2007
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Thinking about this a bit more I also seem to recall that the Yellow Top 4.2 is one of the only batteries that will fit into the 'spare battery' tray without fouling the ABS module (and brake servo?) in the D3 and still allowing you to pop the cover back on.

ISTR that there were not many others that would fit and that also had a decent enough rating for use as a second battery....

Or am I just trying to convince myself to spend 210 euros? Laughing
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Post #36238820th Oct 2008 2:18 pm
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Wex
 


Member Since: 16 Apr 2007
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they can be had for a lot cheaper than 210 you yous Paul , sounds v expensive
  
Post #36239320th Oct 2008 2:41 pm
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christyler
 


Member Since: 31 Dec 2005
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Ent wrote:
I think ,but could be wrong, its something to do with the high charging voltage from a D3 alternator that some batteries dont like but Yellow Top's seem to handle with no problems.


Correct, this is exactly the case. Most other batteries will not handle the higher charge voltage. Any battery that will fit will work ok for a limited time (maybe only a few months) then it will fail from buckeled plates or cell damage.

In my opinion, buy the yellow top. they do work and stay working, i am using this setup for years with no problems.
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Post #36239520th Oct 2008 2:45 pm
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PaulP
 


Member Since: 04 May 2007
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Discowex wrote:
they can be had for a lot cheaper than 210 you yous Paul , sounds v expensive

Really?? I thought that the group buy price on here was around 150 GBP (almost 200 euros) so I thought that a one-off price of 210 euros was reasonable....

Don't forget that here in Spain you have to pay 3 hours labour charge while the guy in the shop goes for a long lunch and sleeps it off before he comes back to the counter with your battery Laughing Laughing
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Post #36239620th Oct 2008 2:49 pm
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90 Rangie
 


Member Since: 17 Dec 2007
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I went down the track of fitting two yellow tops, the reason I went yellow tops was the ability to handle charge and most importantly the rate at which they recharge. I have used deepcycle in the past and they recharge very slowly. In other words you need to run the car for a long period (1 hour + ) of time each day to keep charge up to the deepcycle battery when using your 12v fridge fulltime in Summer. Compare that with 15 min's running time with the Yellow Top each day. The yellow tops cost a lot but work great, remember that they should last a lot longer so if you work it out as a cost / year it is not as bad as you first think.
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Post #36268720th Oct 2008 11:04 pm
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drivesafe
 


Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
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Australia 

Hi shiny, there is actually no real reason why you can’t use a conventional battery as the auxiliary battery and quite a few over here have fitted a number of other types of batteries and are not having any problem.

Remember, your cranking battery is only a high tech conventional battery.

As posted above, the main reason for using an Optima, is it’s ability to be dropped straight into the auxiliary battery compartment with out any need to carry out any modifications to the battery, battery brackets or the battery compartment.

Every other battery that I have come across, need some form of modification to be done to get the battery to fit.
 2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7  
Post #36283421st Oct 2008 12:28 pm
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colinm
 


Member Since: 06 Oct 2008
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England 

Has anyone got a charge voltage vs temperature curve for the disco3 alternator? The Optima batteries include some silver in the plate alloy and some sodium in the electrolyte and this, combined with their construction allow charging up to 15.6v so long as the cell temperature is monitored so that it is not allowed to exceed 51C. I believe that the charging must be terminated once the charge current at 15.6v drops below 1 amp.

Interestingly the 'Bosch bible' recommends for calcium lead batteries that the alternator voltage can reach 15.4v for cell temperatures of -40C but only 14.7v at 25C.
  
Post #36285121st Oct 2008 1:16 pm
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drivesafe
 


Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
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Australia 

colinm wrote:
Interestingly the 'Bosch bible' recommends for calcium lead batteries that the alternator voltage can reach 15.4v for cell temperatures of -40C but only 14.7v at 25C.


Hi colinm, basically this is part the D3 charging system works, the high the temperature the lower the charge voltage, BUT it also takes into account of things, like the state of charge of the battery.

This is why the is such a large range in the operating voltage, 13.2 to 15.7.

If you check the specs of most batteries you will find they also tolerate these voltages based on temperature but the biggest advantage with the Optima, other than it’s ease of fitting, is that unlike most AGM batteries, because the Optima one of only a very few genuine AGM batteries, the Optima can take full inrush current which means the optima can take advantage of the higher current capacity of the D3 alternator.

If you fit a conventional battery to a D3 you will not have any problems but because conventional batteries are pretty well self current regulating, they won’t be able to take advantage of the higher current capacity of the D3, they will just take longer to charge.

The charging time for a conventional battery is still likely to be quicker when used in a D3.

The batteries to avoid are the ordinary AGM batteries, because while they will take the full inrush current from a D3, they can not tolerate it, so they will end up having a relative short operating life. If you check the manufacture’s specs, you will find most AGMs should not be charged with more than 20 to 25% of the AGM battery’s total A/H. This means that an ordinary 50 A/H AGM should not have a charge current of more than about 12 amps and it will not only start to get expensive if you have to fit a device to control the charging current, it makes the Optimas good value for money spent.
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Post #36305921st Oct 2008 9:24 pm
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CG
 


Member Since: 13 Nov 2007
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England 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

Sorry for being thick but whats AGM ?
 
"I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant" 
 
Post #36306621st Oct 2008 9:33 pm
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90BHP
 


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AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat Battery Thumbs Up
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Post #36307721st Oct 2008 10:34 pm
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