Member Since: 25 Mar 2024
Location: Limpopo
Posts: 13
5.0 V8 ZF 6HP pan and filter
Hi you all. I really struggled the last 2 days with a new ZF 6HP filter included pan. The only way to get it installed would have been to lift the engine by 2“ to get it past the Mechatronic and cross member. I know there is a metal pan with separate filter but hard to get here in South Africa. One is on order from lrservicecentre.co.za However. I hacksawed the pipe leading to the filter off and then sleeved it with a 22mm copper coupler and 300 degree heat resistent goo. Was able to install the pan in 10 min. What I don’t know is how high the pressure gets inside the pipe. Any guesses? This solution is only supposed to last a couple of weeks though. Any thoughts on this madness?
23rd May 2024 7:09 pm
philipLR4
Member Since: 25 Mar 2024
Location: Limpopo
Posts: 13
Hey and I filled the transmission up with 6 l of lifeguard 6 today gone through all the recommended steps. No leaks. No error codes and the car runs fine. I am nervous though taking it on a long haul. The pipe is suction and not pressurized I believe. So this might change a 2 hour job into a 19 min exercise
Any thoughts on this one?
24th May 2024 10:39 pm
itsaguything
Member Since: 20 Dec 2023
Location: Manotick, On
Posts: 259
according to the workshop manual, there is no need to lift the engine.
“turn pan through 90 degrees to aid removal”.
Too late now…. you already took a hacksaw to the tube. Good news is that you can order a new tube.
Cheers.2015 LR4 HSE Lux Aintree Green
2013 LR2 HSE Radiance Red
2007 XKR Jaguar Racing Green
2005 XJR Jaguar Racing Green
2002 S-Type R British Racing Green
25th May 2024 6:59 am
philipLR4
Member Since: 25 Mar 2024
Location: Limpopo
Posts: 13
Thank you itsaguything for your reply. I really appreciate some reaction for a topic that I find really pressing because gearbox service is much more important than Land Rover makes us believe and to change the filter and pan is quite a challenge. The workshop manual that does not require lifting of the engine is for the tdv6 and sdv6 but in the 5.0 V8 you have to. In my younger years in the ‘90s I was quite good at Tetris but either I am getting old or Tetris does not help you putting that damn pan back in. The gap between the cross member ( welded) and the mechatronic is 4cm short of the length of the tube. Period. So, my solution was to cut it and sleeve it. Crazy….. I know. I just want to find out if this is totally nuts or actually might work. And No you can not buy a replacement tube. It comes with the pan or you cut it off and sleeve it. Or you lift up the engine by an inch or you get the after market steel pan with separate filter. But I’ll drive it for a month and let you all know if I effed up or saved you 2-3 hours of sweat. Thank you all.
26th May 2024 9:35 pm
philipLR4
Member Since: 25 Mar 2024
Location: Limpopo
Posts: 13
While we are on it… I only had transmission failure messages while going for 13km over a corrugated dirt road. No limp mode just failure meassage. Switch off the ignition wait a minute or two… switch on… error code gone…. Drive on. I then also changed the 4 sleeve tubes and the 1 cased seal between the mechatronic and the actual gearbox. Reslult: fault code is gone. If only my 22mm copper coupler is doing the job I might send the results over to ZF. 🤓
26th May 2024 10:03 pm
itsaguything
Member Since: 20 Dec 2023
Location: Manotick, On
Posts: 259
Thanks for the clarification.2015 LR4 HSE Lux Aintree Green
2013 LR2 HSE Radiance Red
2007 XKR Jaguar Racing Green
2005 XJR Jaguar Racing Green
2002 S-Type R British Racing Green
27th May 2024 1:16 am
philipLR4
Member Since: 25 Mar 2024
Location: Limpopo
Posts: 13
Update on the transmission pan modification. Been driving it for a few days and waited for the steel pan with separate filter element from BritParts via lrservicecentre.co.za .It arrived within a few days. Brilliant service. Took the ZF pan with my sleeved tube off and changed it to the steel pan in 30 min. Refilled with the only fluid i could get atm which is Castrol Transmax ATF Dexron VI. Cleared the old transmission adaption values and did the road run to relearn the adaptation values. Took about a good hour. Now shifting is smooth and no more fault codes. For now.
7th Jun 2024 11:56 am
philipLR4
Member Since: 25 Mar 2024
Location: Limpopo
Posts: 13
Another quick update. After checking fault codes and clearing them while chasing the causes and fixing them too there is one very important item to check and clean: the two earth contacts behind the right front light on the wheel well/fender. Unscrew them and sand paper them clean and tighten them back on. Next time you check most if not all fault codes on the diagnostics are gone unless something is really not working correctly. Crazy how sensitive these cars are with current flow. Do yourself a favour and get a fitting brand new battery and make really good contact with the terminals and then clean those earth connections. You will safe yourself a lot of head scratching..............
14th Jun 2024 9:07 am
philipLR4
Member Since: 25 Mar 2024
Location: Limpopo
Posts: 13
Next update on the transmission. I got hold of 10l of LiquiMoly ATF 1800 and started to replace transmission fluid by increments to eventually have all the fluid changed. So I drained the transmission at 38 C with about 3 l coming out and topped up again with 3 l of LiquiMoly ATF1800 and went through the top-up procedure. While I was at it I also changed 8 l of engine oil with LiquiMoly 5W-20. Man is the car quiet and shifts smooth. It is winter here now and the mornings are 5 C. Every now and then I get a fault code with initial ignition on. Switch off and on again, fault gone. Drives and shifts well. So I think the final fault is just from the shifting position sensoric and the transmission is without any damage or fault. Will keep you updated.
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