Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
I didn't think they were exactly the same as a tyre valve. Same principal though
Back in 1992 they were probably the same as tyre valves before things went over to R134a
23rd May 2018 7:02 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Well I changed one on a Honda car of about 2005 vintage about 10 yrs ago when gassingt the air con, removed machine pipes and the bloody valve started to leak, so degassed it, took the core out and fitted an actual schrader tyre valve core, I would hazard a guess they are maybe a different composition o-ring but needs must.
Car was defo R134.
23rd May 2018 7:09 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
ok, interesting to know.
Yeah as you say seals normally a different compound
23rd May 2018 7:25 pm
heyho
Member Since: 08 May 2017
Location: Leeds
Posts: 147
I don't appear to have any plastic caps on them. Just two valves, one slightly bigger than the other in that area you showed me in your diagram. Don't appear to leak when soapy water added.
Interestingly when the aircon is on auto or set high I got a lot of not ice cold wind (not me either) but the screen is very slow to demist, almost as if there is no air con and it i sjust normal air being pumped out. Could another component have failed or have I been duped of £50+ quid by Kwik Fit cos there's a big hole somewhere and they hace just regassed it without doing a pressure test?
25th May 2018 1:33 pm
yogi972
Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Kineton
Posts: 3372
Just had mine regassed
£29 through groupon at local Ats
Pressure tested
Vacuumed system
There was n refrigerant at all and no oil recovered
It’s positively fridge like now
25th May 2018 4:25 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
so your to blame for the cold weather !
25th May 2018 4:31 pm
yogi972
Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Kineton
Posts: 3372
It should be getting warmer again
I’ve closed my windows now
25th May 2018 4:46 pm
heyho
Member Since: 08 May 2017
Location: Leeds
Posts: 147
So my saga continues. Had it re-gassed at a kwik Fit and it was as warm as ever the next day. Took it back and they said they had had issues with their equipment so I booked it in at another branch (who had an air con specialist).
Took it there and they said it looked fine. Test stated:
Recovered 00.000kg
Recovered oil 0000mlVacumm Time 020:00 min
Leak Test - No leak detected
Charged 00.810kg
Oil charged 0020ml
UV Dye - yes
Drove it away and it was like being in the Arctic.
But you've guessed it - next day as warm as ever
Anyone any ideas. Searched on here and the input valve was suggested. What do I search for to get a replacement or is it unlikely to be this?
22nd Jun 2018 8:06 am
RBP
Member Since: 29 Aug 2012
Location: N Yorks
Posts: 1936
I had similar issues a couple of years ago. After a lot of messing about a new Air con compressor sorted it out. Hope for your sake it’s something else - very expensive
22nd Jun 2018 9:01 am
djcleckie
Member Since: 08 Feb 2010
Location: Highlands
Posts: 189
Hi
Last year mine was blowing warm air so I took it to Kwik Fit (Oban) to have it re-gassed.
Blowing ice cold afterwards BUT it only lasted 2 months and it was blowing warm again.
Had it in at an ILR dealer for suspension work and asked them to do a visual check for leaks - no obvious leaks but if it lasts 2 months then it must be a very small leak.
Anyway I was browsing eBay and came across an advert for an AC sealant.
One review said it was excellent BUT another said it was useless
Anybody tried it?
Any thoughts/comments?
Dave2005 SE Manual Cairns Blue
Faultmate MSV2
Series 2 - long gone
RR Classic long gone.
Disco1 believe its still going as a farm vehicle in France.
22nd Jun 2018 9:52 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
you need to inspect all the a/c components thoroughly.
Look for either a yellow dye (white tissue can help)(I see they added UV dye so that's good, you can look for yellow) or oil deposits.
If you find any, it could be leaking there.
22nd Jun 2018 9:52 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
djcleckie wrote:
Anyway I was browsing eBay and came across an advert for an AC sealant.
For £30, you much better off at spending your money at an Air Con specialist (not kwik-fit)
It will cost you less in the long run.
22nd Jun 2018 9:57 am
heyho
Member Since: 08 May 2017
Location: Leeds
Posts: 147
Cheers to you all for you advice, very welcome as always
22nd Jun 2018 10:01 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
silver pipes tend to be air con pipes. (run next to battery etc)
I assume an HSE has rear air con controls in the roof.
The pipes to the rear are a very common cause for failure.
I believe they run under the car on the passenger side, so check these too.
22nd Jun 2018 10:19 am
heyho
Member Since: 08 May 2017
Location: Leeds
Posts: 147
PeteK. I had my car serviced by an indie (known him 50 years!!) the morning before my regas and I asked him if he could check the state of my air con pipes (I had to have new break pipes fitted after a MOT fail recently so wondered if because they had corroded the same might happen to the air con). But he said they were fine (well what he could see to inspect).
As a noob to mechanical stuff on cars (and I am getting butterfly's as I need to replace my thermostat and sensor on my other car, a Nissan 350z with a sexy V6 engine which is overheating) would the pressure test show a leak in the compressor area as someone has kindly suggested? If I look for the yellow dye in that region would that be a good start?
Also another suggestion has been the input valve. Would you expect to see yellow dye in this area if that was faulty (I've checked that and it isn't showing anything).
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Same principal though
