Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 762
air resevoir valve
had the dreaded suspension amber light today,iid is saying the res valve is at fault has any one tried the Chinese valves that seem to be everywhere at the moment ? only a genuine one looks like best part of £180 now I don't remember them being that expensive !
seem to recall having this problem a few years ago and fitted a new valve but im quite sure it messed me about for a few days before fixing it self about 4 yrs ago
have had a quick look cant see any thing wrong all connectors look ok and when I clear the code the compressor runs for a second then yellow light comes on and shuts down the compressor so im reluctant to spend on a genuine one if its possible to be something else,anyway cheap Chinese ok or not thanksplease excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
18th Dec 2019 6:45 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
Take the valve off and see if there's any white powder residue in there. If there is, the desiccant in the drier has disintegrated causing blockage or malfunction. You might as well have a look at the desiccant and filters in the drier whilst you're in there. The reservoir valve block in itself does not normally give trouble so its possible debris has got into it. Drier desiccant and filters are cheap, you can buy an original or OEM valve block here: https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/suspension-re...26597.html
Desiccant and filters are also available online, if you need AMK you can use the Hitachi desiccant and filters, but you need to cut down the Hitachi filters to fit the AMK drier! Its all easy stuff and cheap fix yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
18th Dec 2019 8:14 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Amber rockin rover, Me too only cold
Well I have a similar/same problem.
On cold mornings anything below 34 deg F, I get the amber light on startup. After my 20 mile run to work I recycle the ignition and it goes away. I figured it was water in the lines, so I have just replaced the desiccant last weekend. However this morning I got it again when the temp dropped to 32 F.
My dryer did had degraded desiccant in there, and there was a little moisture to boot. Nothing pouring out mind you, just able to see moisture around the inside of the dryer when I emptied out the desiccant.
I'm still thinking it has to be water somewhere as this never happens above 34 deg or around there.
Is there anyway to possibly drain any moisture out of the system?
I assume if my theory is correct (water) then eventually it will be taken in by the dryer however Winter is Coming as they say, and it sucks being without "Special Programs" while I wait for it to heat up.
If I removed this valve and check for debris might I be able to also drain any moisture from lines or the reservoir itself?2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
19th Dec 2019 2:53 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
It's possible you might have water in the reservoir, but I'd agree check the reservoir valve first and see where that leads you.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
19th Dec 2019 2:59 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
will do2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
19th Dec 2019 4:20 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Tomorrow's the day
So I am planning the valve inspection tomorrow for the air compressor.
Where would I look what line for evidence of debris? On the picture here? #9 the inlet hose from the compressor?
2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
26th Dec 2019 9:03 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
Disconnect 4,6,7,8,9 and the sensor 10. Remove the valve assy from its rubber mount.
Inspect and blow out any moisture or particulates, and carefully check the sensor for same. Inspect the airlines and ensure there is nothing impeding airflow. Reassemble check elec cons and test.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
26th Dec 2019 11:19 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Valve inspection
That is what I feared. Only way I figured I could do it right.
Well I will try out my repurposed fuel line tool for an airline disconnect tool.
or my 13mm end wrench.
Thanks for the confirmation.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
27th Dec 2019 2:34 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
You're kidding right!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
27th Dec 2019 4:18 am
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
JK s my kids say
Yes, I asked a clerk at an auto parts store before I had looked at the Voss fittings on my rover and the guy gave me this. As I had not seen the fittings yet I took the bait.
Thought it was funny as the guy swore this was THE tool he used. Probably has not seen a land rover mush less...2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
28th Dec 2019 2:18 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
Skip the "clerk" in future This site is where you will find the answers
Did you get sorted?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Dec 2019 2:24 am
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Operation cold rover
So I pulled my res valve block, found no "cocaine" in there and only one drop of water.
I did a resistance test across the solenoid plug and got 10.9-11.0 Ohms. Not the 2 Ohms the manual claims. so ordered a new valve block off eBay.
Will start cold tomorrow AM as the temperature had warmed into the 60's by the time I got to it.
If for some reason I fixed it using the Ford Wiggle test, I guess i'll put it on the ever filling stocked parts shelf in the garage.
If you know of anything else I should do before placing the Air Comp Cover back in let me know and as always appreciate the input.
Dreading Front ARB bushings tomorrow, but if it cures the clunks I will b happy.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
28th Dec 2019 2:26 am
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
See latest post Prof G
Details in my last post.
New Valve on the way, had 10 Ohms vs 2 ohms at solenoid connection on valve.
Is that what you would think? as said i did a resistance check and got a higher reading than manual/normal.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
28th Dec 2019 3:23 am
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Skip Ckerk
Yea that was back in August when first got the rover.
I don't go anywhere else but here and another forum for info now. You guys are right on the spot and so willing to help.
Thanks. Let me know if you think I needed to check other issues while I still have covert off. Didn't to line voltage check as the truck was wheels off on jacks and stands at the time. So I pulled the trigger on the valve, I can always return it or save it for future use.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
28th Dec 2019 3:26 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4657
Re: Operation cold rover
Ruper wrote:
So I pulled my res valve block, found no "cocaine" in there and only one drop of water.
If you live in an environment prone to temperature extremes (ie below 0 deg C / 32 f) the system will not tolerate the presence of water as this will obviously freeze and block the passage of airflow, or crack certain components. If you have not already changed the desiccant and filters you would be well advised to do so now, especially if operating in the above described temp range.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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