Member Since: 17 Jan 2019
Location: Bath
Posts: 11
Air sus problem
Hi all,
Just returned to the Land Rover fold after a 13 year lay off. Last Disco was a '96 D1 Tdi ES manual which was sold in 2006 and is still going! I did briefly dip my toes back in with a 2000 Freelander 1.8 which I had for about 4 months and tbf I'm glossing over it!
So I've just got a 2008 tdv6 which I've acquired via a swap for a 2005 VW Touareg. It's a Black GS manual with Grey cloth that's done 125k. It does however have a couple of faults. It's got the dreaded screeching EPB which I have disabled for now, I'm hoping that it's just shoes and adjustment as its had a new actuator a couple of years ago.
The other fault which I'm less confident about is the air suspension light comes on after about 5 mins of starting and tells me that only normal height is available. Again the car has had a compressor but it was 4 years ago. The compressor will get the car up to the top height, but it will then return to standard height. Will getting the car scanned tell me the problem or does it need a bit more investigation? I was thinking maybe ride height sensors, but the I started looking into it on here, and I'm slightly more perplexed, have heard about parts of the loom being corroded, air tanks etc on the compressor, valve blocks, and leaks in general. The car doesn't seem to drop when left for long periods, but I also see the car will self level when asleep? What's the most logical way to progress?
Any help greatly appreciated!
20th Jan 2019 11:53 pm
XDAndy
Member Since: 16 Jan 2018
Location: Gibraltar
Posts: 597
Tbh, Get an IIDtool.
There are others but this seems to be the forum favourite; I’ve had mine nearly a year, and it paid for itself in the first couple of months.
Relevance to you is that as well as letting you scan fault codes, it will let you monitor suspension live values to figure out where you are loosing pressure or where ride height sensors are not reading accurately, or whether it’s a CANBUS issue and wiring issues may be the cause.
Straight out the box would be, if it had a compressor replaced, was it a diy job and did they update the firmware to the correct version? If not then my understanding is there could be overheating issues,
In any event, would be best to get your codes read.
21st Jan 2019 1:12 am
Thesouthwester
Member Since: 17 Jan 2019
Location: Bath
Posts: 11
Thanks Andy,
Where’s best to get the IIDtool from?
Many thanks
21st Jan 2019 1:37 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4647
You can buy direct from GAP in Canada, one of the forum sponsors (Advanced et al), or from other LR parts specialist like Island 4x4, or Famous Four. It will be invaluable if you're going to run a D3/4!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
21st Jan 2019 1:50 pm
L319
Member Since: 14 Dec 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 2080
Duckworth had some on offer
21st Jan 2019 2:13 pm
Sea Raider
Member Since: 01 Nov 2016
Location: None
Posts: 4450
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1782
As everyone says - get a code reader of some sort. There are many good ones available depending on your depth of pocket.
Back to the fault, the software only needs updating if changing from Hitachi to AMK, if it was replaced with like for like then its okay.
The fault does tend to go towards a compressor that may need refurbishment and there are many kits available for the DIY person.
Get the codes first.
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