Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: there's no f in point
Posts: 2137
I removed my compressor this weekend and didnt see a wire with loops, do you have a picture of this?
6th Dec 2011 7:01 pm
thorgal
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
I don,t really know how to upload pictures, but if you go to LRPARTS.RU( it is a Russian microcat , select English, go to Disco3, chassis , air suspension and lines, you will see it, a wire with two loops PN RQD500020, that is called strap-securing.
7th Dec 2011 12:39 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713
The wire was fitted as part of the A034/A036 Vehicle Enhancement program, to show the compressor had been re-worked, and new parts fitted.
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
Disco_Mikey wrote:
The wire was fitted as part of the A034/A036 Vehicle Enhancement program, to show the compressor had been re-worked, and new parts fitted.
Not needed, and nothing to worry about
Thanks. that means, that I had mine redone in 2008 by someone. I wonder if they also updated the compressor software back than . I bought it used, off lease, so I would not know, if was updated or not...
Well, I just replaced O-rings and dryer.Silicon beads inside were wet and binder together at one and , so overall i am glad , that I replaced it.
11th Dec 2011 4:16 am
jhaddock
Member Since: 08 Oct 2011
Location: Puerto Rico
Posts: 47
Hello there:
Have change compressor 18 months ago following disco_mikey's instructions (really appreciate your job). Since then everything is fine (no errors) and suspension is working superb. During the process I have take apart the old air dryer and open it to find that inside filters, desiccant material, springs, an all components were very deteriorated. Question is. Considering I live in the Caribbean where air moisture is relatively high all year around, should I consider changing the compressor dryer on a regular base?, considering its cost is only a fraction of a new air supply unit. Should this help prolonging the life of the new air supply unit? Any feedback will be appreciated.
14th Apr 2013 5:21 pm
Discothree
Member Since: 19 Apr 2013
Location: België
Posts: 8
19th Apr 2013 7:34 am
TdV6Pete
Member Since: 10 Aug 2012
Location: Rutland
Posts: 415
Q86ARR wrote:
Don't forget to replace the relay (part no. YWB500220) and update the ECU (ref LTB00331 and LTB00270).
Where and why does the relay need replacing? And why do you need to update ECU? My compressor needs changing, and i was going to do it but i cant update ECU.
finally, whats the part number for a compressor and what would you expect to spend?
Thanks!2inch Lift, 33inch Cooper STTs, Wheel Spacers, Hidden Champion 9000lbs Winch with recovery points, Full Underbody Protection including Rear Bumper Guard, Rock Sliders, Snorkel, 4x4 screen enabled and Sat Nav on the move (thanks to Bodsy), Discreet LED roof lights, LED work light, BAS Re-map and EGR's blanked, V8 Brake upgrade with Grooved, Drilled and Slotted Brakes, Halo Fog Lamps, Roof Rack, 240V Inverter, CB radio and finally a Swing away wheel carrier with Hi-Lift mount...
29th Apr 2013 8:56 pm
leggyemulous
Member Since: 12 Apr 2011
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 5
This was a really handy thread. I've had the "Suspension fault, normal height only" warning coming up a few minutes after start up for a while now.
The main stealer was adamant that a new compressor was required.
I didn't believe them, so I purchased the 3 anchor nuts mentioned on the beginning of this thread and set about getting the compressor off. It's yet another crazy Land Rover design. Access to the top bolt of the mounting bracket is ridiculous (the top allen bolt holding the compressor to the bracket would be equally impossible to deal with in situ). Fortunately the old anchor nuts do disintegrate pretty swiftly! That one bolt still took me well over an hour though. There was no way I was getting a socket on it, despite using various drive sizes and extension lengths. There just wasn't enough room between the compressor and the top of the clam-shell cover. I had to (very) slowly remove it with a 10mm ring spanner.
Again as suggested here, the 8mm and 10mm pipe connectors were thoroughly seized in. I had to cut the pipes and used a couple of these connectors to rejoin them later. They're good up to 8 bar apparently - so far so good. I bought them direct, but I've discovered since that they are also on ebay if you search for "Push In Nylon Tube Hose Connector Joiner Air Line"
Anyway, I removed the air dryer which I'd assumed to be the issue and dismantled it. As suspected, the silica was in a right state and the dryer was effectively blocked. I caught all of the silica, microwaved it to restore it, then sieved it to leave me with just the beads. Reassembled it all and fitted a new o-ring where it meets the compressor. Refitted the compressor assembly and low and behold, the issue has gone away. With that in mind, I wouldn't spend nearly £100 on a new dryer if you are regenerating the silica for the first time. It's a very simple job. Do it in batches in a thick pyrex dish for about 3 minutes at medium/high power.
Net cost to me, much less than £20 compared to nearly £1k that the stealer wanted for fitting a new (and unnecessary) compressor.
I couldn't have done it without these forums
12th Nov 2013 12:38 pm
eljot
Member Since: 15 Nov 2013
Location: wasserburg am inn
Posts: 90
would like to do some maintenance on by compressor and would like to know if there is something to do on the suspension before taking of the pipes, etc. or just in normal "height-position", etc.?!
thx, martin
19th Nov 2013 4:21 pm
Chris1969
Member Since: 21 Jun 2011
Location: North Worcestershire (not far from Redditch)
Posts: 385
Hiya Martin,
When I did mine I just disconnected the battery beforehand to make sure I didn't do anything to the electrics but other than that, nothing to do I am aware of .... and mine is fine since the re-build
Chris.
19th Nov 2013 4:36 pm
eljot
Member Since: 15 Nov 2013
Location: wasserburg am inn
Posts: 90
wanted to do some maintenance on my compressor today! went everything fine so far, until i came to the f...g pipe connectors!! no chance at all!! one of the "ring" was falling off when i tried to press it!
put some wd40 on the rings and will try it the next days!!
are there any tips how i could get the connectors loose and can the stupid connectors be bought separately?
Click image to enlarge
23rd Nov 2013 9:32 pm
TuppyTrucker2
Member Since: 30 Dec 2013
Location: Basse Normandie
Posts: 16
I've been having the EAS light come on quicker and quicker, so today I set about it.
I'd bought some captive nuts as mentioned here. More of this later.
So I take it all to bits, the top bolt is easy once you've found it. 10mm socket on a UJ and 14" of extension bars, took all of 20 seconds to get off but 5 minutes to find.
The push fit unions resisted slightly but a drop of PO and a tap with a screwdriver sorted them. Out came the compressor. Took it off the bracket to get the drier off, carefully eased off the bayonet type fitting, not strictly necessary, but it's the 1st time.
Opened up the drier, caught most of the silica. Some had solidified. Zapped it in the microwave, put it all back together. No fault light.
For about half an hour.
So I'll be getting a new batch of silica gel and cut some clean felt discs and a new O ring. Maybe a piston seal as well if available. See how that goes.
I still have the captive nuts. The old ones were perfect. Typical.LR: D4 3.0 auto, D3 2.7 auto, D1 2.5 auto, D1 2.5 man.
Skoda: 2017 Kodiaq Edition 180Tsi 4wd DSG
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3rd Feb 2014 6:42 pm
Beretta
Member Since: 11 Oct 2012
Location: Rochdale
Posts: 1180
Luck?
Wish me luck I have tomorrow booked off work to replace mine. I planned to refurb it but on inspection some of the bolts on the unit are new, so would imply it's already been rebuilt / repaird so bitten the bullet and got a new one from TLO.
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