Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713
How To - Air Suspension Compressor replacement
Air Suspension Compressor replacement. Also pretty similar for replacing the compressor bracket, as the compressor needs to be dropped anyway
Fault code stored was C1A20, pressure not rising quick enough (pretty much, cant remember the exact description). After checking the pipework, and reservoir tank etc for leaks, all was OK, and compressor was found to be at fault
Apologies for the poor quality pictures. I am currently between phones
Before starting, buy 3 of these
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The captive clips/nuts will probably disintegrate upon removal, like this...
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Start by removing lower cover, which is held on by 3 bolts. One at the front, one at the rear, and one in the bottom of the cover, as pictured
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Next, spray some pentrating oil onto these pipes. They are the intake and exhaust pipes for the compressor. Chances are the "quick release" olives will be well seized in, but more of that later... The brass collar needs to be pushed inwards, which should release the pipe, and it can be pulled out. If they are seized, the pipes will have to be cut, and rejoined later
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Remove the pipe into the blue union on the dryer. This one will be quick release, again push in the union, and pull the pipe out. There will be a bit of air pressure released when this pipe is pulled out
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Disconnect the 2 electrical connectors, and remove the 2 lower bolts, that you can just about make out here.
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The top bolt is very awkward to get at. You need just the right length of extension to get onto the bolt head. It is directly above the left hand lower bolt, roughly here
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And as seen with the compressor off, for reference
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Once the last bolt is out, the compressor can be removed. It is held onto the alloy bracket with 3 bolts, all 4mm allen key headed bolts. There is also a small rubber bush to be removed from the old compressor, and swapped onto the new one. Fit new compressor into the bracket
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If you did have to cut the pipes, as I had to with this one, The old pipes need to removed, as there is a brass insert in each pipe, which needs to be swapped into the new air pipe. Pipe sizes are 8mm, and 10mm. There are various ways to get the pipes out, but i cut the casings open as far as I dared with a grinder, and burst the casing open with a chisel
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I cut the old plastic pipes, and removed the brass inserts. I had to heat the new pipes to allow the brass inserts to fit inside the pipes, then check for correct fitment.
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Hold compressor against the chassis, and cut the pipes to the required length. I used a pair of speedfit connectors to rejoin the cut pipes, but I cant find anything online that looks like what I used. When I do find it, i will update this thread You can just about make out the connectors on the R/H of the picture
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To re-fit, hold the compressor roughly in place, and start the top bolt first. You can just about see what you are doing. A third hand is pretty handy here, also. Once the bolt is started by a few threads, fit the bottom 2 bolts and tighten up, making sure you are not trapping any pipes/wires behind the compressor bracket, then tighten up the top bolt.
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Refit electrical connectors, air intake + exhaust pipes, small pipe into the blue union on the dryer, and bottom cover. Clear faults if you have a code reader, though if you dont, the light will go off anyway once the car is started up, just the fault will still be stored in the suspension ECU memory
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
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20th Jul 2011 7:09 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Kyalami
Posts: 2059
Mike thanks very much you saved me a lot of time
I used your guide last night to remove and update the compressor on the wife's RRS with a new dryer and exhaust valve kit. Exactly the same process a the D3. Luckily there was very little corrosion, so I got both the big air lines out fairly easily after a spray of Q20. Emptied the air tank and filled it up again afterward with the MSV2 - what a pleasure.
The ironic part is, I bought the new dryer cos I had a small leak at the blue connector. So assuming it was the receptacle and not the air line, I fit a new dryer, fit the new spring and valve and O rings etc. put the assembly back (that top bolt is a b d !) and the leak is still there
So I cut the little bent black pipe and joined it with a speedfit connector to lengthen it, remade the end that goes into the blue receptacle and the job seems to be a good-un.
I am gonna try source a new part from LR just for peace of mind, but the repair will do for now.
Anyway, at least the missus has a cleaned-up compressor now.
12th Aug 2011 4:30 am
Q86ARR
Member Since: 23 Feb 2010
Location: Jersey
Posts: 378
Don't forget to replace the relay (part no. YWB500220) and update the ECU (ref LTB00331 and LTB00270).
12th Aug 2011 7:01 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713
Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: London, UK
Posts: 1318
Baben what's the part number for Spring/valve kit please, Disco_mickey have you used the kit much?A few mods... and keeping it all running...Faultmate MSV2
MY09EGR's blanked Thanks Bellautos, BAS
12th Aug 2011 8:05 pm
Baben
Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Kyalami
Posts: 2059
Q thanks for the reminder. Wil do software and relay today.
Part for spring/valve kit LR020590
part for dryer UUB504700
13th Aug 2011 5:01 am
pigmy
Member Since: 14 Aug 2011
Location: kent
Posts: 1
Orange / Blue pipe connectors
Hi back again to forum after a lengthy time away but glad to see its still going strong with plenty of good input & advice from the regulars !
Back to the old age subject of the compressor fault , put car into access level then it won't return to normal height saying suspension fault etc etc
Took a long look at the various input on the forum & decided to take a look thinking the worst . Remove cover plate & find problem straight away the pipe with the orange marker has come out , refit pipe start car compressor sounds then pop it blows out again ?
Is this a common problem ? can the pushfit fitting with orange marker only be replaced ? or is it a replacement dryer unit in whole ?
Any advice is good , thanks
11th Sep 2011 6:33 pm
Lundoz
Member Since: 06 Feb 2011
Location: Oslo
Posts: 75
Nice!! Just got my D3 back from the dealer today after a towbar change.
After starting the car I could hear a dark humming sound cfor about 30 sec. Thats the compressor right? I went back to the dealer. They said that the sound is very lound and comes and goes every 2-3 min for about 40-60 sec.
They said that thet needed to check the bracket for cracks?? or could it just be a plugg that's fallen out?
Should your seat shake everytime the compressor starts? It sounds like a tank starts everytime the compressor starts Damn loud!!
20th Sep 2011 2:42 pm
thorgal
Member Since: 26 Nov 2008
Location: on the east side
Posts: 541
Now , that I just renew my compressor ( thanks to encouragement from fellow members), i wanted to ask you about one item , that I stubbled across.Wen i removed the compressor , i took off this tiny wire with loops on both ends, that was attached to dryer-s base to metal assembly . t did not installed it back as I thought, that it is not really necessary, since new dryie rfits tight and it is also secured be small screw to the rest of the compressor housing.My question is , Is this piece really necessery?
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