Dadof3
Member Since: 10 Jan 2020
Location: Solihull
Posts: 15
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HI, This is first post as all my other issues have been resolved by searching this really informative forum, but this time i can't seem to find the answer.
Last weekend my suspension dropped right down to its stops after i had driven about 20 miles. I drove for about 20 miles without any issues, switched off the engine for a couple of minutes and then when i went to drive home i noticed the suspension had dropped all the way down. I got the message ' air suspension fault do not exceed 30 mph'. So i drove home very carefully and it has been parked up since.
So far I have borrowed a diagnostic tool and get the error code 'C1A27-14 Permanent'. I am not sure how relevant the 'permanent' is as I have not seen the exact code anywhere on the forums, just 'intermittent'. I have checked all the fuses and the 60amp had blown, this has now been replaced and the compressor now runs for 10 seconds whenever I start the engine and then I get the 'air suspension fault' message. I have also swapped over the relays to eliminate a faulty relay. I can also connect the 2 pins to force the pump to run and even after a minute the suspension does not rise at all. I have removed the pump and can feel pressure being generated, just not sure how much, I was able to stop the air with my finger quite easily.
Any ideas of what else to check I am starting to think that I need to replace the pump, but would a repair kit be sufficient. It is the AMK pump.
Any help and guidance really appreciated
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 11th Mar 2020 9:31 pm |
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loanrangie
Member Since: 18 Jun 2017
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 599
  
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Sounds like you need to change the drier desiccant.
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| 12th Mar 2020 12:58 am |
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Dadof3
Member Since: 10 Jan 2020
Location: Solihull
Posts: 15
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Thanks for the reply, so just a repair kit then, or can I get just the dessicant.
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| 12th Mar 2020 4:04 am |
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garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1115
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You may very well have a dryer issue in the compressor but a faulty compressor does not cause the car drop to the bump stops. For sure if it is down a faulty compressor will prevent the suspension coming back up but it does not cause it to drop - this is a function of valve blocks and the suspension ECU.
By way of example - I have driven my car without the compressor even fitted foer considerable distance and it never went to the bump stops and when parked up did not drop.
If your desiccant has failed, white power can develop which can find its way through the system - contaminating the valve block and stopping various seals from sealing. This can cause the suspension to drop.
So as Loanrangie suggests - rebuild the compressor (including the exhaust valve) and clean out the valve blocks checking for white dust - then see how you go.
Cheers
Garry
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| 12th Mar 2020 5:42 am |
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loanrangie
Member Since: 18 Jun 2017
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 599
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With the AMK you can only rebuild the drier as there arent any kits for them, would pay to clean out the valve blocks at the least or fit new seals if required.
You should blow the air lines out to get rid of the powder that inevitably jams the valves.
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| 12th Mar 2020 10:25 am |
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Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
  
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Might want to look at what these guys have to offer. This video link is for a Hitachi Compressor, but they may have other links or seal kits for the AMK.
2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
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| 12th Mar 2020 1:51 pm |
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Dadof3
Member Since: 10 Jan 2020
Location: Solihull
Posts: 15
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Thanks for the link, just ordered a repair kit. Hopefully will arrive tomorrow.
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| 12th Mar 2020 6:47 pm |
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Dadof3
Member Since: 10 Jan 2020
Location: Solihull
Posts: 15
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Update.
I have now replaced the granules and the seals , the old granules were smaller, but not dust. I have now got the diagnostics tool back and getting C1A20-64 INTERMITTENT, Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir. I have removed a cleaned out the valve block by the compressor and all seems ok. Some pressure was released when I removed it, and as the suspension is right down assume it must be from the reservoir. Incidentally the reservoir looks new.
I am now going to look at the front valve block and wiring, but any other ideas would be appreciated, I am missing driving the car and have to use the wife's Yaris.
Thanks
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| 14th Mar 2020 11:40 am |
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Dadof3
Member Since: 10 Jan 2020
Location: Solihull
Posts: 15
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No issues found on the front valve block.
Thinking that I should have bought the exhaust solenoid with the dryer repair kit, where can i get 1 on its own from.
As a backup plan, are there any recommendations on a good independent garage to go to around Solihul.
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| 14th Mar 2020 1:59 pm |
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Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
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Search here somewhere. I think you can run a direct 12volt power to the solenoid to check function. i did that while I had mine out. There was something on here about that process and I don't remember well enough to re quote.
I think I found it using the fault code C1A13-64. I think the guy on the linked video tells you how to check it.
He also does another one for the same fault and it might be in that one. One is for cleaning it and one is for seal kit.
I couldn't find the solenoid as I looked for it when I was doing mine. 2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
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| 16th Mar 2020 7:51 pm |
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Dadof3
Member Since: 10 Jan 2020
Location: Solihull
Posts: 15
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So i have now replaced the solenoid on the pump, cleaned and checked the valve by the pump. And now I get another error code C1131-92 Permanent Air supply.
The pump starts up and runs for about 30 seconds before getting the error code. I have confirmed that air is getting into the reservoir and haven't found any leaks.
I am starting to suspect the pump is not generating enough air, is there a test I can do. I am able to put my finger over a pipe and stop the air flow, so does that mean not enough pressure.
Also if I need a pump, are the cheap £100 amk pumps off EBay any good.
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| 17th Mar 2020 8:05 pm |
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Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
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Have you watched the live values of your car to see exactly what it’s doing
Ps don’t buy the cheep pumps , it’s Chinese crap that looks like the same but that’s the only similarity Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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| 17th Mar 2020 11:23 pm |
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Dadof3
Member Since: 10 Jan 2020
Location: Solihull
Posts: 15
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Thanks for that, I guessed that about the cheap pumps.
I will try and borrow the diagnostics again this weekend and have a go at the live feature. Not sure if it will give me any good information as the pump only works for about 30 seconds
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| 19th Mar 2020 4:59 am |
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Dadof3
Member Since: 10 Jan 2020
Location: Solihull
Posts: 15
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Can't get hold of a diagnostics now so am trying whatever else I can. I have checked all connections and cannot find any leaks, replaced the granules, solenoid and relay.
The only thing I can think of is a fault with the pump itself. Is there a way to confirm the pump without a gap tool to monitor the live stats. I have removed the pipe that goes from the pump to the central air block and the pressure seems low to me, I can put m y finger over the end with ease.
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| 21st Mar 2020 2:40 pm |
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Lazydave
Member Since: 07 Jul 2019
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 87
  
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I am local in Sheldon with a Foxwell NT530 diagnostics. Not yet used in anger but you are welcome to come round and plug it in. PM if you want to. 2010 HSE
Full service genuine parts.
Front and rear pads.
Turbo oil drain pipe mod.
LED interior lights upgrade.
Both rear door actuators.
Tailgate handle/ switch.
Facelift grille and rear lights.
Fitted cross bars.
New rear discs and pads.
New RH inlet manifold.
New air con condensor.
New battery.
New EGR pipe.
New front discs and pads.
New propshaft.
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| 21st Mar 2020 5:20 pm |
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