Member Since: 01 Feb 2018
Location: Southeast
Posts: 8
Air Suspension fault - help please
Hi all,
two years ago I purchased a 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6. around 12 months ago i had the orange suspension fault light, going red when driving over 30. The car would raise OK to normal height on starting and would drive OK.
I bought an Hitachi compressor to swap out, like for like to avoid the software/AMK conversion.
After changing the compressor I noticed that when locking the car I wasn't getting the psst I had before, when the gallery would vent and the suspension gently lower the car.
A short while after swapping the compressor, I would still have the same amber red fault.
Having gone back to the garage, I have since replaced the gallery valve (between the compressor and reservoir tank), all four height sensors, the suspension control unit, the battery, positive battery connector as this would not tighten properly, and the brake switch on the brake peddle in case that made a difference.
so since all of that, I still have a fault.
the fault codes i have are c1A13, U0421, U0132 and U0132
the symptoms are:
at times when the ignition key is turned to position 2 for the glow plugs to warm and the system check to happen, the pump will run but the suspension fault error would display and the amber light will come on. switch the ignition off will clear the fault.
I can at start the car OK, the suspension will raise OK to normal height and drive fine, however after driving some miles (this can vary) the amber light will come on which will then turn red over 30mph. the suspension does not drop and the ride is still OK. stopping and restarting will clear the error, but it may reoccur, again the distance can vary.
I have also had times where i can drive the 25 miles to or from work and haven no error at all.
If i start the car without the fault, raise the suspension it will then lower and display a message about clearing obstacle
having the car connected to the garage computer, the suspension can be raised and lowered manually without a problem.
does anyone have any idea what is going on?
I do have a second compressor but with the Covid-19 situation i have not tried replacing it yet, if that is the problem.
thanks in advance for any help you may provide.
24th Jun 2020 6:21 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Hiya
Personally would check the wiring around the compressor / reservoir valve block and also behind the front passenger side wheelarch liner , has 3 x connectors there which are known to cause issues
Also did u replace a new relay with the replacement compressor
Ref the hiss , exhaust valve on ur old unit might have got weak , U codes can normally be ignored
Have u checked ur battery VDC with and without the engine running and what diagnostics are u using plse
Hope that helps
Ps, if I may Plse add, pop over to the introduce section
24th Jun 2020 6:38 pm
Jarreman
Member Since: 01 Feb 2018
Location: Southeast
Posts: 8
Hi, Gstuart,
I have replaced the relay, was the first thing I did before the compressor, wheel arch wiring apparently checks out OK, interesting about the compressor connectors.
the Battery is brand new, not sure about checking the VDC, ill have a google and play with a multi-meter.
I did use a voltmeter on the battery terminals with the engine running as a quick alternator test, had a reading of 13.8 volts running with 12.8 volts on the battery with the engine off.
the diagnostics I'm using is icarsoft LandRover i930.
thanks again
24th Jun 2020 11:01 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
Alternator output seems too low, i would take a few more readings and try putting a load on the system by turning things on such as head lights heater blower to max see what readings you get then.
25th Jun 2020 6:22 am
Jarreman
Member Since: 01 Feb 2018
Location: Southeast
Posts: 8
Hi There,
OK i have have taken some readings and have the following across the battery clamps:
engine off, no load - 12.4V
engine on, no load - 14.3V
engine on with load (lights, stereo, fan, main beam) - 14.13v
engine on with load and at 1500 RPM - 14.2V
Is that waht you would expect?
cheers all
25th Jun 2020 10:01 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
Yes those readings look ok, if you were getting 13.8v you reported earlier i would suspect the alternator was about to fail.
Have you replaced the relay for the compressor?
25th Jun 2020 10:45 pm
Jarreman
Member Since: 01 Feb 2018
Location: Southeast
Posts: 8
Hi there,
I replaced the relay first before the compressor, in case that fixed it, which it didn't
I haven't replaced it again though, but as a cheap fix i suppose its worth a try again.
do you know what/where the earth points are in case they are worth looking at?
Cheers
25th Jun 2020 11:08 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
Sorry re-read afterwards that you changed the relay.
The fact that pressure is not venting from the gallery us a little concerning if you gave replaced the compressor and valve block. Below is from Land rover on that fault.
Did you fit a new compressor and valve block? Assuming you did it might pay to remove, clean and fit new O rings to the front and rear valve blocks
Common fault, as per LR;
C1A13-64 Pressure Does Not Decrease When Venting Gallery - Signal plausibility failure
Signal plausibility failure
Gallery pipe from rear valve block to suspension air supply unit blocked/damaged
Air suspension exhaust silencer or exhaust pipe blocked/restricted
Rear valve block pipes connected incorrectly
Pressure sensor fault
Exhaust valve stuck closed
Visually check the gallery pipes for evidence of melting, crushing, kinking or collapsing. If pipes appear sound, disconnect the pipe at both ends and check for free air flow. Repair/renew pipes as required, clear DTC and retest
Check the air suspension air supply unit exhaust silencer/exhaust pipe for blockages/restrictions. Repair as required, clear DTC and retest
Starting with the vehicle around normal height, using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system, open the exhaust valve. If the rear suspension height lowers quickly as soon as the exhaust valve is opened then a rear air spring pipe and the front gallery pipe are fitted to the rear valve block incorrectly. Rectify as required, clear DTC and retest
To check air pressure sensor, use the manufacturer approved diagnostic tool to vent the common gallery via the exhaust valve. Then disconnect the 8mm delivery pipe from the delivery port on the back of the air dryer and connect a T-piece fitting. Connect one port of the T-piece to the blue delivery port via a short length of 8mm pipe. Connect the other port of the T-piece to a calibrated pressure gauge tool (Note that an 8mm connector will be required). Using the manufacturer approved diagnostic tool, run the suspension air supply unit until the pressure is in the range 1500 - 1800 Kpa. Read the system pressure using the manufacturer approved diagnostic tool. Divide the measurement in Kpa by 100 then subtract 1 at sea level (0.9 at 900m elevation, 0.8 at 1900m elevation, or 0.7 at 3000m elevation) to convert to bar and compare the result with that displayed by the pressure gauge. If the readings are not within 2.0 bar of each other then the pressure sensor is likely to be faulty. In the case of a faulty pressure sensor, check and install a new valve block as required. Clear DTC and retest
To check for a stuck exhaust valve, use the manufacturer approved diagnostic tool to run the suspension air supply unit until a gallery pressure of at least 500 Kpa is reached, then switch off the suspension air supply unit and ensure all valves are closed before opening the exhaust valve and noting any changes in gallery pressure. If the gallery pressure drops quickly to between 125 Kpa and 250 Kpa at sea level (115 Kpa and 240 Kpa at 900m elevation, 105 Kpa and 230 Kpa at 1900m elevation, or 95 Kpa and 220 Kpa at 3000m elevation) then the exhaust valve is operating correctly. If the gallery pressure cannot vent quickly below 220 Kpa to 250 Kpa (elevation dependent, see above), then there is a fault with the air suspension system or its exhaust valve. Disconnect the 8mm delivery pipe from the delivery port on the back of the air dryer. Connect a calibrated pressure gauge tool directly into the delivery port. (Note that an 8mm connector will be required). Run the suspension air supply unit to generate 3 to 4 bar and then actuate the exhaust valve. If the pressure cannot vent quickly to between 0.25 bar and 1.5 bar then the exhaust valve is the likely cause of failure. In this case, check and install a new suspension air supply unit as required. If the pressure can vent quickly to between 0.25 bar and 1.5 bar then check for a blockage in the pipe between the compressor and the rear valve block, and/or a blockage in the rear valve block, and/or a pressure sensor fault. In the case of a blocked pipe, repair or replace the faulty pipe as required. In the case of a blockage in the rear valve block or a pressure sensor fault, check and install a new rear valve block as required. Clear DTC and retest
26th Jun 2020 6:22 am
Jarreman
Member Since: 01 Feb 2018
Location: Southeast
Posts: 8
OK update as of today.
following your reply aja4x4. I replaced the front valve block, looked at the rear and couldnt get full access to it with the tools I had. So I checked it into a garage (seperate one to the people that replaced the pump) and gave them the diagnostics to go through to find the fault.
Still no luck. same error.
If i try to raise the car to off road height, the pump kicks in and the car raises. when i go to lower it, it starts to go down before erroring out and stating "extended height, reset when clear of obsticle". lowereing the car again and then get the suspension error light.
would it be possible for one of the pipes on either the pump or the gallery valve block be the wrong way round?
Cheers all
24th Jul 2020 5:48 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
It now sounds like you need to calibrate the hieght sensors, its not lowering because one of the sensors is giving a false reading and the car thinks theres an obstacle under the car. It would also be worth checking the part numbers of the hieght sensors its possible they have been fitted in the wrong position.
LR020155 304-037 AH223C097-AC LEFT FRONT
LR020157 304-070 BH223C097-AA RIGHT FRONT
LR020159 304-071 BH225B732-AA LEFT REAR
LR020161 304-039 AH225B732-AC RIGHT REAR
24th Jul 2020 6:19 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10379
I would say it’s either the compressor exhaust.
Or the height needs calibration
24th Jul 2020 6:20 pm
Jarreman
Member Since: 01 Feb 2018
Location: Southeast
Posts: 8
They have calibrated the height, but interesting if the sensors are in the wrong place. Are they easy to get too?
24th Jul 2020 6:58 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10379
They are easy to get to. But I would leave them alone.
24th Jul 2020 7:22 pm
davidhem
Member Since: 21 Feb 2013
Location: Kenilworth
Posts: 710
gstuart wrote:
Hiya
Personally would check the wiring around the compressor / reservoir valve block and also behind the front passenger side wheelarch liner , has 3 x connectors there which are known to cause issues
Also did u replace a new relay with the replacement compressor
Ref the hiss , exhaust valve on ur old unit might have got weak , U codes can normally be ignored
Have u checked ur battery VDC with and without the engine running and what diagnostics are u using plse
Hope that helps
Ps, if I may Plse add, pop over to the introduce section
Have you checked the wiring as gstuart mentioned? I have exactly the same issue, C1A13-64 error code, only intermittent, I also have the same issue of raising to off road height no problem, but trying to lower it again it goes into extended height mode, I have to use the IId tool to clear the error before it will lower again. I will be checking the wiring first.
Member Since: 01 Feb 2018
Location: Southeast
Posts: 8
Update
OK so I bit the bucket and visited the Local Land Rover specialist and they have solved the problem.
The orange light was down to a dodgy compressor, and the message regarding clearing obstacle I think was down to having AMK software programmed when the suspension control unit was replaced, rather than Hitachi. Needless to say, I won’t be visiting the original garage again!
So after having an AMK pump fitted at £900 all is fixed.
Moral of the story here is visit the local specialist first before replacing the whole suspension at twice the price.
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all is fixed.
