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sbarnham
Member Since: 07 Nov 2007
Location: Blue Mountains
Posts: 103
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| Alternative jack when changing rims |
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Guys,
I have a second set of rims and the factory jack is such a pain -- slow and fiddly.
Wondering about getting a trolly jack, but not sure where to use it ?
Question 1: Does anyone use a trolly jack on their D3 ? What point do you lift ?
Question 2: Anyone got a better solution ? New MY15 TDv6 D4 in Buckingham Blue
Previously 2005 TDV6 HSE in Cairns Blue
- LR Steel Bar & Lights, Cooper STT 245/70R17 on LR 17", ContiCrossContact UHP 255/60R18 on LR 18", Traxide/Optima Yellow Top, GME 3440 UHF, FrontRunner Roofrack.
Previously 1999 TD5 in Blenheim Silver
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 8th May 2008 10:24 am |
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heine
Member Since: 07 Feb 2007
Location: Midrand
Posts: 4054
  
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I use a trolley jack and also an air jack . The trolly jack has a nice big receiver plate - so I normally place it under the suspension as close to the wheel as possible
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| 8th May 2008 10:53 am |
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d34me
Member Since: 08 May 2008
Location: Kilmore
Posts: 28
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I also have a trolley jack so that I can change my wheels for dirty weekends. I lift 1 wheel at a time from the same spot the original jack is supposed to go. Disco 3, Gold TDV6 HSE, rear e diff, kaymar rear bar, ARB bullbar with front parking sensors, Warn winch, 110L auxiliary tank, dual battery, GME UHF, Lightforce spotties, Cooper ST's, LR snorkel, Expedition roof rack.
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| 9th May 2008 12:08 am |
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norto
Member Since: 10 Apr 2006
Location: batemans bay
Posts: 1605
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d34me welcome
Was your D3 featured in a 4wd magazine a while ago Pete
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| 9th May 2008 1:17 am |
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d34me
Member Since: 08 May 2008
Location: Kilmore
Posts: 28
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norto wrote:d34me welcome
Was your D3 featured in a 4wd magazine a while ago
It wasn't featured, but it has been in Overlander magazine for the Drive For Life trip. I didn't have a lot of the accessories back then. Is that what you are referring to, or is it mistaken identity?  Disco 3, Gold TDV6 HSE, rear e diff, kaymar rear bar, ARB bullbar with front parking sensors, Warn winch, 110L auxiliary tank, dual battery, GME UHF, Lightforce spotties, Cooper ST's, LR snorkel, Expedition roof rack.
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| 9th May 2008 2:29 am |
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norto
Member Since: 10 Apr 2006
Location: batemans bay
Posts: 1605
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Unfortunately, mistaken identity Pete
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| 9th May 2008 2:39 am |
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PCH
Member Since: 12 Jan 2005
Location: Anywhere but work
Posts: 812
 
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If you get a trolley jack make sure it is at least 2.5 tonne to make lifting an easy and safe task.
I lift each corner under the chassis rail near the suspension arm then stick an axle stand under the chassis rail near the jack. There is no need to change suspension height, just do it in normal height. If you have a flat concrete surface it make it that much easier.
Chris 2011 Discovery 4 (MY12) SDV6 HSE with General Grabber AT's, Traxide Aux Battery system, custom rear drawers and Autosafe half height cargo barrier
Gone - 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE
ARB Bull Bar, Warn 9.5XP Winch, IPF D/Lights, Cooper STT's, LR Raised Air Intake, Traxide aux battery system, custom drawers and half height Autosafe cargo barrier, Mitchell Bros 4x4 tow hitch
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| 12th May 2008 1:58 am |
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eran48
Member Since: 10 Dec 2007
Location: Sydney
Posts: 165
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G'day,
I use a 3 ton trolley jack and pretty much have the tyre changing down to a fine art after swapping tyres about 3 times now - takes about 30 minutes to swap all 5 wheels - this includes wiping down all 10 tyres/wheels and putting the unused set away 
This is probably a no-no but I just place the trolley jack under the suspension arms and only jack enough to raise the tyre about half a centimetre off the ground. The trolley has a large round plate at the jacking end and I have a piece of rubber mat on it to prevent scratching the suspension arms.
This makes it really easy to get the wheels off and to put the second set on - there is virtually no lifting of the heavy wheels/tyres on/off the hub.
I also think this is much safer as I am literally only raising one corner wheel at a time - the car/chassis is not raised at all. I only need to raise the suspension arm a total of about 1.5 cm. This is a lot less pumping of the trolley jack compared to needing to raise the chassis about a 6 - 12 inches before the suspension reaches full droop and the wheel leaves the ground.
One thing to watch out for when jacking this way - when the suspension arm is slightly raised, the computer thinks that the car is not level and will actually level the vehicle - it WILL do this even when one or more doors are left open!  This happened last friday when I had the rear driver's side suspension arm raised slightly (tyre was half cm off the ground). The car levelled itself even though I had the front passenger and rear doors (cargo area) open.
I always thought that leaving a door open will stop the suspension from changing height but it appears that this doesn't stop it from LEVELLING itself.
Cheers.
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| 12th May 2008 5:18 am |
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norto
Member Since: 10 Apr 2006
Location: batemans bay
Posts: 1605
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I use a 12 v rattle gun (plugs into the cigarette lighter)
to remove the wheel nuts...it works well Pete
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| 12th May 2008 6:27 am |
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DingMark
Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Perth Oz or Erbil, Iraq
Posts: 388
 
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First flat I had was on a rather soft beach. Did everything right (eg door open, max height, etc) but stuck on a beach it had a slight tilt away from the flat tyre (thank goodness). The bl@ody beast decided to do a self-level. That liquified the sand under the 3 remaining tyres and the jack and it sank to the frame (and the jack nearly disappeared). Jim Dowell - D4 HSE TDi, 12,000 hydraulic winch & hidden winch mount, MTRs, TyreDog, Traxide 2 x aux battery system, fixed air compressor, Dolium roof rack, MitchHitch.
RIP 2005 D3 HSE V8 5 seater gold (stolen and torched)
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| 13th May 2008 3:48 am |
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