Member Since: 24 Oct 2018
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 7
Body Removal
Hi all,
I'm new to the forum but I'm a member of a few other landy forums for my previous defenders. I'm currently in the process of removing the body off my D4 and wanted to know if the radiator packs need to be removed or disconnected or if they can be left in place and removed once the body is off.
Thank you in advance for all your help.
24th Oct 2018 9:02 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
The d3 packs stay with the chassis. Not 100% about d4 but one of the more knowing will be along to confirm. Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
24th Oct 2018 9:11 pm
Neil990
Member Since: 14 Apr 2018
Location: Dorset
Posts: 12
No the rad pack stay in the chassis. You don't have to touch it.
24th Oct 2018 9:42 pm
Pardeep
Member Since: 24 Oct 2018
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 7
Ok that’s great.
Thank you for your help.
24th Oct 2018 10:10 pm
Pardeep
Member Since: 24 Oct 2018
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 7
I got the body off this weekend with the help of this forum so thank you for this.
Found out that the crank was snapped and from what I've read this seems to be a common issue.
29th Oct 2018 10:11 am
robpenrose
Member Since: 12 Jan 2016
Location: Surrey / SW London
Posts: 2136
Very disappointing. What do you plan to do with it?
Have you owned it long? How many miles / age?
Current: D4 HSE
Previous: BMW Z4M Coupe
Previous: Land Rover Defender 90 CSW Td5
Previous: Land Rover Discovery Td5 ES
29th Oct 2018 10:16 am
Pardeep
Member Since: 24 Oct 2018
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 7
I'm going to put a new crank in with new main and big end bearings. I'll also get the bores honed with new rings, reseat the valves with new stem seals and valve guides if needed. Once this has all been done and the heads skimmed, I'll rebuild it with a new oil pump, timing belts and tensioners.
I bought the car relatively cheap as a non runner, its a 2011 which has done 165k miles so it makes sense to do all the above to give it a good refresh.
29th Oct 2018 10:29 am
charlietortoise
Member Since: 29 Oct 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 502
Heads
Hi there, I am not an expert at all. However last week I just happened to be reading through the D4 workshop manual, the part that gives the description of how the engine is built. It mentioned that the heads could not be skimmed. Course that just what the book says but maybe you could have a read up yourself to see.Discovery 4 3.0 HSE 2010 year. I like it a lot. Now with winch 😂
I'm also thinking there are issues sourcing the parts you need … that's why the snapped crank or spun shells is sooooo big a problem. IIRC you can't get a JLR crank by itself.
29th Oct 2018 2:51 pm
Pardeep
Member Since: 24 Oct 2018
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 7
I've managed to source a brand new JLR crank which will be going in.
Does anyone know the supplier of the original main and big end bearings?
I'll clock the heads up and check for flatness across both axis and work out if they should be skimmed or not. If they're not within tolerance I've been told I can get thicker head gaskets which should make up the difference.
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