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John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
  
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| Cabin temperature thermistor |
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Hi,
Had the issue as described on here recently - very high cabin temperature dial setting needed to get any decent warmth into the car (26 degrees) whereas last year, I hardly moved from 21 degrees.... After blowing hot air for a few minutes the temperature would then blow cold.
I took the cover off the dash where the thermistor lives, and the tunnel in which it sits was full of dust/fluff, so I hoovered that out. It also looked like it was leaning too much to one side (perhaps reading the temperature of the tunnel wall), so I gently pushed it to a more central position.
Anyway, this has improved things a lot - it doesn't blow cold air after a while, and you don't need the temperature quite so high - however it's not as perfect as it used to be 
Given the improvements made by doing the above, and the fact it used to be fine, I thought it might be worth replacing the sensor. Does anyone know if it's possible to replace the thermistor without doing a load of awkward soldering or taking half the dash apart? Does it sit in some sort of unit that can be unplugged/replaced?
Thanks,
ps - I tried the re-calibration/reset procedure described on here, which came up with no fault codes for the motors. 2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
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 1st Dec 2009 10:57 am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
  
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Stick some open cell foam over it.  “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 1st Dec 2009 12:08 pm |
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John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
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Thanks for this - only concern about doing this is whether it would cause some other part of the system to overheat? 2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
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| 1st Dec 2009 12:28 pm |
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PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
 
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I think that what Caver is describing is also a LR TSB or service action designed to solve this problem or improve the reliability of this sensor...
I haven't got any concrete details, but it rings a bell 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Buckingham Blue
2007 Golf GT DSG
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| 1st Dec 2009 12:51 pm |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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Yup, had mine done by the dealer definately noticed a difference. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 2nd Dec 2009 12:41 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
  
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| Where does the Thermister live? |
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In the first post, I see a reference to removal of something, somewhere, to get at the thermister.
I gather the thermister lives somewhere in the dash at the front and I guess is fairly easy to see once exposed.
If so, can someone tell me what to remove, and does it require force or just a gentle tug?
Also the reference to open cell foam - I suppose that is the white stuff that things can be packed in that has holes in it for air to circulate and one just wraps some of it around the sensor.
The material is sort of kind of like the little cover that one would surround a microphone with to reduce wind noise? 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 2nd Dec 2009 1:36 am |
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lightprof31
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 27
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As per bbyer I would like to know more about the fix I have the same problem dealer has never solved it 
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| 2nd Dec 2009 9:14 pm |
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MrH
Member Since: 08 Aug 2007
Location: lost in the forest
Posts: 7754
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JC - the thermister can be bought as a spare part - Contact TLO, he supplied one to me when I fitted all the sensors to upgrade from basic a/c to climate controlled temperature. From memory there's a connector not far from where the thermistor is .
EDIT:
Just checked, the wire pluga into the thermistor so it's easy enough to replace one LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
Last edited by MrH on 3rd Dec 2009 10:07 am. Edited 1 time in total
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| 2nd Dec 2009 10:23 pm |
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lightprof31
Member Since: 02 Feb 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 27
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Looked around and found the posts about the foam sock LA412-003 does anyone know where to get one on the site?
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| 2nd Dec 2009 11:16 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| just stuffed some foam in this evening |
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I do not know if I have solved or created a problem, however I had some about 1/4" (6 mm) thick open cell foam packing material used by Asus re shipping motherboards that I just stuffed in around/behind the therminister "button".
I also removed a bit of dust that had adheared to the "button" and also was inside the recess that the therminister sits in. I used an artists paint brush and a small hand held vacuum for the cleaning.
Stuffing the small piece of foam in there moved the therminister from the centre, however I kind of recentered the button when I completed the task.
The difficult part for me was removing the approx 4" wide x 6" high surround between the steering wheel hub and the radio. It came loose at the top first - lots of forcefull steady tugging, and then when the bottom would not let go, after leaving the thing sit for an hour or so, when I tried again, the bottom detached somehow as well - more steady forcefull tugging and then it just let go. Nothing broke, and I must complement LR for their quality materials. The surround is a hard plastic material covered with a thick soft vinyl pad - pretty good looking stuff in my mind.
The only real question now is just how the therminister is supposed to feel the cabin air.
My only experience with these automatic heat control systems is with General Motors, (Buick), and they have a hole in the dash, (middle to passenger side), behind which is about a 1/2" diameter plastic tube that draws air from the cabin over a therminister somewhere in / near the heater/AC fan.
I assume that LR has somewhat the same setup in that there must be somehow negative air pressure behind the therminister, (the reason for the open cell foam), but that for some reason, the draw does not quite work and heat / hot air from the instrument area somehow sees the therminister instead of the cabin air.
Does anyone know how the "button" is supposed to see air from the cabin as I cannot actually see any sort of negative air draw device. With GM, if the system acts up, it is probably because the air draw pipe has detached itself. It is rarely an electrical problem - just something fell apart. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 3rd Dec 2009 2:14 am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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Make sure you use open cell foam. The air should just flow through it. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 3rd Dec 2009 6:33 am |
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MrH
Member Since: 08 Aug 2007
Location: lost in the forest
Posts: 7754
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| Re: just stuffed some foam in this evening |
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bbyer wrote: With GM, if the system acts up, it is probably because the air draw pipe has detached itself. It is rarely an electrical problem - just something fell apart.
The Disco3 one also should have such a pip attached to the back of it. LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
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| 3rd Dec 2009 8:33 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| yes there is supposed to be an air draw pipe behind |
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Thanks for the confirmation re the pipe. I just found another post on a "heater" thread that agrees that there is some sort of "vacuum" pipe behind the thermister leading somehow to the heater fan. The pipe is not visible from the front, but it must be there for things to work. I suppose that like GM, the pipe can become disattached, but as I cannot see it, well...
What I am really not clear about however, is just what the open cell foam is supposed to do.
I might add that I did not cover up the thermister, only kind of filled in behind it with the bit of open cell foam. As such, the "button" is still centered in the rectangular space and visible. I assume that this was what the "fix" was supposed to be - that you could still see the button? 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 3rd Dec 2009 5:30 pm |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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I think the foam protects the thermister from radiated heat which makes it think the air is hotter than it is. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 4th Dec 2009 8:42 am |
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