Fireburst
Member Since: 02 Nov 2017
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 187
  
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| Cambelt and HPFP belt change on 2012 D4 |
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Hi
I have done a search but all I could find was the excellent write up by Disco Mickey, I have read this through from start to finish but would like to know of any additional tips involved in changing the D4 belts.
I have all the correct locking tools including the HPFP tool, I also intend to change the glow plugs while I am at it (I know I must be mad but I like a challenge) it was running rough on first start up last winter.
I have the Laser vibrating glow plug tool and plenty of time on my hands so if it take a week or so that's just fine.
I will report back when the work is done 
The car will be 7 years old next march and has done 70K miles
Thanks
Jim
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 7th Sep 2018 6:35 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6234
 
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The rear belt on the D4 has a lot more to come off to get to the belt, just take your time and you should be fine.
Flack 
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| 7th Sep 2018 9:49 pm |
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Fireburst
Member Since: 02 Nov 2017
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 187
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Hi
Update on the job so far!
Cam belt.
Not too difficult although there is a lot to come off just to get to the belt. The car was running perfectly prior to starting the job and although I took off all the under shields with the intention of removing the starter motor to lock the flywheel I decided it looked too much trouble as it meant lying on my back under the car, not normally a problem but having had a knee replacement 5 weeks ago thought better of it!
I basically used DM's and Flack's method of marking the crank after inserting the cam locking pins, but to be sure nothing moved I locked the crank with a bar from the aux belt tensioner bolt hole to the top thread of the crank pully hole (the bar was the exact length with zero slack in the bolt holes). Job completed and pins fitted back perfectly after turning the engine over a couple of times.
Glow Plugs
Wow, what an easy job! I had read all the scary stories but decided it had to be done, last Winter I warmed it with the FBH prior to starting but I like things to work as they should so plugs had to come out! I purchased a Laser Vibrating Glow plug tool to do this job, quite expensive at £150 but well worth it, the plugs were very tight but after about an hour and a half of rattling with the gun all six were out. I was soaking the plugs all the time I was removing them with WD40 penetrating oil. (not the usual WD40) But I don't think this is any better than any other penetrating oil. Total time about three hours!
Just out of interest I always run with 2SO at every fill up. Perhaps I was just lucky, might buy a lottery ticket this week 
HPFP belt
This is the job I am not looking forward to, I have hands like shovels and what looks like a letterbox size space to work in!
Can I ask a question of the experts please. As I can't remove the starter to get the locking device in do you think the method I used to lock the crank will be OK to time the HPFP? The engine has not been moved since I removed the camshaft locking pins and I have the HPFP locking tool.
Locking bar idea stolen from Tripe
I may advertise all the timing Kit and vibrating tool when the job is finished as I cant see me doing another at 71 years of age.
Jim
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| 12th Sep 2018 7:44 pm |
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1784
Member Since: 04 Sep 2009
Location: Almunge
Posts: 136
 
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I did both front and rear belt on my MY12 this summer and yes, the rear belt was the worst. I think locking the cams with the locking pins should be enough for this. There is no strain put on the cam or the locking tool since the fuel pump pulley bolts are basically just "finger tight".
I had to trim down the fuel pump locking tool pin a bit to fit the hole in the block.
Use thin wire on all tools and bolts when working through the "letterbox hole", if you drop something, it will most likely end up on top of the gearbox.
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| 12th Sep 2018 8:00 pm |
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James W
Member Since: 27 Mar 2008
Location: Wirral, UK
Posts: 3067
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No useful advice to offer but just wanted to say a big for tackling all this. Credit where it’s due.
Good luck for the rest of it D4 XS, gone, much loved, never forgotten
2018 FFRR SDV8 Autobiography - Gone to someone with less sense and more time to enjoy it 
2016 Toyota Hilux Invincible - Liberating experience
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| 12th Sep 2018 8:15 pm |
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Fireburst
Member Since: 02 Nov 2017
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 187
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Thanks for the tip regarding securing the tools, I am always dropping tools this could save me hours looking for them.
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| 12th Sep 2018 8:15 pm |
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Fireburst
Member Since: 02 Nov 2017
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 187
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Hi James
I will report back when I have done the rear belt.....not looking forward to this job!!
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| 12th Sep 2018 8:18 pm |
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1784
Member Since: 04 Sep 2009
Location: Almunge
Posts: 136
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Get something comfy to put on top of the engine, you'll spend some time lying there.
I found the trickiest part was to get the new tensioner bolt in while keeping the belt marks lined up.
A good mirror, good working light and a pair of extra hands is helpful
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| 12th Sep 2018 8:49 pm |
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Fireburst
Member Since: 02 Nov 2017
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 187
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Thanks
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| 12th Sep 2018 8:52 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6234
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I do the rear belt on the D4 and don't bother with any pins.
Flack
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| 12th Sep 2018 10:49 pm |
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Fireburst
Member Since: 02 Nov 2017
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 187
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Hi Flack
Do I follow the same procedure on the D4 as in DM's original post of 5 years ago ie, remove the wiring harness to the right hand side of the engine along with several additional items, thanks for your help so far.
Jim
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| 13th Sep 2018 10:12 am |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6234
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@Fireburst Yes bud take it out, but there are only two plugs on PCM on the D4,the rest is the same.
There are a lot of little fiddly bits to remove at the rear, pipe clamps, the worst part is the bracket right at the back that holds the main wiring loom, make sure you release all the loom fasteners.
Flack
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| 13th Sep 2018 10:34 am |
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Fireburst
Member Since: 02 Nov 2017
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 187
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Thanks Flack much appreciated. 
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| 13th Sep 2018 10:55 am |
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peterm
Member Since: 28 Sep 2009
Location: sweden
Posts: 114
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Maybe it's just me, but I'd start up the engine prior to tackling the rear belt. Being an engineer, I don't like multiple fault sources. If you haven't had it started since the cam belt change, and there's trouble after replacing the rear belt and the first start, it could be either one of the new bits at fault. On the other hand, if that means a lot of extra work, I understand the desire to do all at once before starting it up. Gone and missed : D3 TDV6 SE MY2008
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| 13th Sep 2018 11:32 am |
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Fireburst
Member Since: 02 Nov 2017
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 187
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Peterm
I agree that it would be best to run the engine prior to starting the rear belt, however the system I am using to lock the crank requires the locking bar to be fitted where the aux belt tensioner would be so to run the engine I would have to re-fit the tensioner, bottom pulley, fan and refit the water hoses and refill the system. This would all require removing to do the rear belt!
If it was not for my recent knee operation I would have removed the starter and locked the flywheel.
Although I have never been in the motor trade I am confident in my ability to change timing belts. In 50+ years I have never put a vehicle into a garage for any mechanical work whatsoever. I have fully restored 20+ Land Rovers from Series 2's 3's and Defenders and am currently nearing completion on a two year body off nut and bolt restoration on a TR6.
Jim
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| 13th Sep 2018 12:04 pm |
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