Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 61
I made an error!
Afternoon all..
So quick update: After my new back probe needles arrived this morning, I re-ran the resistance test and can confirm that I did indeed make an error.
The resistance measurement between PIN 6 & PIN 14 on the OBDII is 123 Ohms!!
So that means aas advised by you kind folk, that one set of resistors is not being seen. My guess (and it is based on my limited knowledge) is that it is the Instrument Cluster.
How do I now proceed?
EDIT - Lightbulb moment!! If I remove the instrument cluster, unplug it, then check the resistance on PIN 6 & 14 again, and it measures the same, does that then prove that it is indeed the Instrument Cluster??
BTW the MEDIUM CAN measures at 61 Ohms, so that one is good.
Awaiting your most helpful responses, in the meantime I will re-read everything that I have printed off so far.
One again, a HUGE thanks to you all.[/b][/i][/b]
20th May 2023 1:32 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 61
UPDATE:
So I unplugged the Instrument cluster and the reading changed to 0 Ohms. But when I plugged it back in, for some reason it went from the previous 123Ohms, to 102 Ohms.
Therefore my feeble brain is telling me that the 60 Ohms from the Instrument Cluster is probably okay, and the likely culprit is as others on here have said; the connector on the left side rear chassis.
Time to jack the car up.
20th May 2023 2:22 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 61
So the weekend is over, but I have been busy tackling the Discovery!
When the back probes arrived on Saturday morning, I decided to retest at the OBDII port, and sure enough the readings were different - my previous readings were incorrect.
I was getting 120 Ohms, so thanks to the knowledge shared by gstuart and Martin, loanrangie, motolab and sidestick, I was able to know something was wrong.
Next I undid the clip for the Instrument Cluster, and the reading dropped to zero - so I think that meant the problem was NOT at the Instrument Cluster (also the logs were telling me that the IID could see the IPC anyway).
So I jacked the car up (I hate jacking cars up - especially big ones!),, and I took out the passenger side rear wheel arch liner, found the 2 connector blocks, unplugged them, sprayed contact cleaner, put them back together.
I also checked for damaged/broken wires but couldn't see any (thanks loanrangie).
So I checked the resistance again, and this time it went down to 70 Ohms.
Anyway, I then had to put the air compressor cover back on (this was quite fiddly).
Once I had checked everything I started to try and code the TCCM, I followed all the steps and it was successful!! I couldn't believe it! I was so excited.
Then started the car, and lo and behold the Transmission error, Suspension Error and Parking brake error - all gone!
Still have the sunroof to fix - so that's still to do, as well as the parking sensors - they don't work.
Thanks man for ALL YOUR HELP!! Thumbs Up
I wanted to take the time out update the thread and share my success with you all! I know the feeling when you read a thread, you get to the end of endless pages, and there is no result - probably sometimes because the OP manages to fix an issue, but then forgets to update the thread!
IN SUMMARY then, I believe the fix was the contact cleaner on the two connectors behind the passenger side rear wheel arch.
I hope this thread helps others in the future!
22nd May 2023 1:16 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13629
Awesome news there mate along with credit to u for sticking with it
Great pleasure I was able to help in a very small way , always a team effort form the fantastic members here
Hopefully the sunroof reset will work as provided by woody
As urs is after 2007 I think the front parking sensor connector is behind ur near side headlight , if not look behind the drivers side headlight , rear connector is hidden behind the near side cluster
If u chock the wheels , select reverse, ign on and handbrake off , listen at the rear sensors and should be able to hear them clicking
However , Easier to use ur gap iid live data settings to test front and rear
Once again fantastic news and indeed thk u for updating all of us on ur progress
22nd May 2023 2:18 pm
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18452
Well done
You may still have an issue with the integrity of the CAN bus wires at those connectors, they are exposed and notoriously fragile. Once they start to break/rot you can get intermittent connections, so moving it to clean the terminals may have worked but bear in mind you may need to look again if the issue crops up again.06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know!
22nd May 2023 2:57 pm
loanrangie
Member Since: 18 Jun 2017
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 600
Glad it worked for you.
23rd May 2023 3:21 am
highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5095
Martin wrote:
Well done
You may still have an issue with the integrity of the CAN bus wires at those connectors, they are exposed and notoriously fragile. Once they start to break/rot you can get intermittent connections, so moving it to clean the terminals may have worked but bear in mind you may need to look again if the issue crops up again.
This^ ...in spades!
I've found it's sometimes easiest to just cut back a bit from the connector and solder in a jumper cable (the waterproof low-temp solder connectors are good for tight spaces) and take the connector out of the equation.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
24th May 2023 11:43 am
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 61
Martin wrote:
Well done
You may still have an issue with the integrity of the CAN bus wires at those connectors, they are exposed and notoriously fragile. Once they start to break/rot you can get intermittent connections, so moving it to clean the terminals may have worked but bear in mind you may need to look again if the issue crops up again.
I hear you Martin, and the fact alone that just contact cleaner (or lack of contact) was the cause/fix - makes me quite aware and alert to any CAN issues going forward. I have learnt a lot about this car of late, and checking fuses, grounds, continuity and the like is always going to be a starting point for any electrical/similar issues.
Once again, proud to be a member of this forum and would like to thank all those who contributed to this thread. Hoping also that it will be of use to others in the future.
24th May 2023 12:28 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 61
highlands wrote:
Martin wrote:
Well done
You may still have an issue with the integrity of the CAN bus wires at those connectors, they are exposed and notoriously fragile. Once they start to break/rot you can get intermittent connections, so moving it to clean the terminals may have worked but bear in mind you may need to look again if the issue crops up again.
This^ ...in spades!
I've found it's sometimes easiest to just cut back a bit from the connector and solder in a jumper cable (the waterproof low-temp solder connectors are good for tight spaces) and take the connector out of the equation.
highlands - I recently saw my neighbour using some of these.. I think they are awesome. Will need to find some and get them ordered! When you say take the connector out of the equation, do you mean literally soldered one end of the wire to the other end? did you do that for all the wires or just for the HCAN?
24th May 2023 12:31 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13629
Plus 1 what’s already been mentioned
Also hope u don’t mind me adding but when I had dirty contacts on both my TCM no ECM I found the Mannol contact cleaner was very good, along with some terminal double files where it cleans both sides of a terminal pin , just have to careful not go overboard with them, just so there nice and clean whilst using the contact cleaner
Here’s a link of the contact cleaner which I hope is useful to u , I got 2 x cans so had one spare
Indeed as mentioned there’s a few options if a connector keeps giving u trouble , 1) take apart and clean 2) remove connector - rejoin using those combined heat shrink connectors that have Ben mentioned , but at the end of the day that the last resort
Have in a few cases bought all new OEM connectors / pins and replaced so then it keeps it original
At the end of the day at least u know what the problem is and have other options if needs be
Hope this is useful to u , plus I saw a great canbus video explaining the system, will try and find it for u
Have a great week/ end my friend
Ps, yeh I know I got carried away with all the different pliers, lol, alas since owning a D3 my tools collection has increased m think it’s the same for many of us
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
24th May 2023 6:50 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13629
Found that video , hope it’s useful to u and doesn’t confuse matters
24th May 2023 7:04 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 61
Martin wrote:
Well done
You may still have an issue with the integrity of the CAN bus wires at those connectors, they are exposed and notoriously fragile. Once they start to break/rot you can get intermittent connections, so moving it to clean the terminals may have worked but bear in mind you may need to look again if the issue crops up again.
So.. I managed to replace the sunroof and had to remove the headliner in the process of course..
BUT. The problem is back. The car seems to start when the CAN Bus error is not present, but then it comes back and the car fails to start.
So, based on all the info provided/reading done, it feels like maybe a dodgy earth/ground connection? Can anyone suggest the next diagnostic step I should try? I've attached the logs again after my last scan..
(I'm thinking to get both my jump leads, connect them together, one end of it to the negative battery post, and the other somewhere on the chassis?)
Model L319 - Discovery 3 2008
Vehicle scanned on 4 Jun 2023 22:01:38
IIDControl 4.1.3 Build 130 Android - IIDTool BT V4.0 B2691
Audio System
B1D79-01 - Microphone input - General failure information - general electrical failure (2B)
( on 10-10-2023 09:39:27 at 287064 km )
U0010-87 - Medium speed CAN communication bus - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message (28)
( on 10-10-2023 10:53:04 at 287064 km )
Auxilary Heater
U3000-55 - Control module - System programming failure - is not configured (2A)
Instrument Pack
U0001-87 - High speed CAN communication bus - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message (2B)
( on 20-05-2037 10:17:46 at 287064 km )
6th Jun 2023 3:06 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13629
Hi mate
Glad u got the sunroof and headliner sorted , indeed those headliners can be very fidly
Plus 1 what @Martin mentioned ref those wires , would go back to that connector at the back rear wheel seeing it sorted the issues before , along with peeling back some of the conduit to ensure there’s no bad wires , ensuring all the pins / connector are nice and clean , but spraying all 3 x before taking them apart in order to get every bit of dirt u can from the outside , I used a Stanley blade to very carefully peel the conduit off when exposing the wires either side of the connector , then re wrapped them after along with some cable ties , hopefully the conduit doesn’t just fall apart as it can become brittle over age
Also check the drivers side front wheel earth connection
U codes can normally be ignored , if u don’t mind me adding ensure ur battery is fully charged , should read around 12.6 Vdc with the engine off
Best to note the codes first , clear everything and then see what comes back
Indeed when jacking the vehicle up, raise it to off road height , crack the wheel nuts at the back wheel , remove fuse F26 in the engines fuse box as that will disable the suspension from moving , jack the disco until u can get some axle stands underneath , then remove the nuts / wheel , then after re torque wheel nuts when finished , plse note that the disco will drop down quite quickly when reinstalling fuse
Hope that also helps
Ps, is that the true mileage plse , ref 287064 KM , if so that’s impressive
6th Jun 2023 4:49 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 61
Hi gstuart
So I checked the earth behind the driver's side front wheel arch - it looks almost new!
There was a loom running from the back of the wheel arch, along the top, up to under where the headlight is.. this had some electrical tape on it, and some cable ties.. so I undid it but no damaged wires there either.
I put the wheel arch back in today, and the car seems to start every time.
Re the battery it is a brand new one, and when the engine is running, it shows 13.9 or 14.0v. On this subject I am curious to wonder in case there is a parasitic drain which is draining the battery.. I would not be surprised if there is!
Thanks for the advice on how to jack the car up.. and yes I have been using the F26 Fuse trick, making sure to remove it every time before jacking the car. Also been using axle stands
re the Mileage.. not sure how that is showing what it is, the car has done something like 178k miles!
7th Jun 2023 10:39 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 61
Another update from today..
So I took the car for a drive, 7 miles or so. Parked it up for an hour and a half. Went back to it to start it and sure enough the errors are back, hazards are going off and the car wouldn't turn over.
I removed the positive terminal from the battery, as well as the F26 fuse, left them off for a minute or so, put them back on, went to start the car. On first attempt, the hazards were not flashing but the car didn't turn when I turned the key. Turned the ignition off, back on again and this time it started up.
Drove her home, parked up, and whilst the engine was still running, I pressed the lumbar support button on the seat, as I was doing this the lumbar support was moving behind me, as it should but then lo and behold the hazards started going again, and all the errors (HDC, Suspension, Parking Brake etc) all showed up. Switched the car off, and now it won't start again!
So.. I think it is related to the seat. More investigation needed!! [/b]
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