Member Since: 19 Oct 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 31
Charging Voltage
I have an aux plug in type volt meter which is showing -
Ignition on (not started) 12.7v New Genuine JLR Battery last week fitted by LR independent and coded
Engine running and driving on Motorway anywhere between 12.3 & 13.0 except when you take your foot off the throttle it goes to 14.5 reapply power and drops back to 12.3/13.0
Turning on heated screens, seats, lights all at the same time has no impact on voltage.
I have just driven for approx 12hrs at motorway speeds today (France) no warnings on dash and have checked battery voltage with Digital Volt meter with everything off its showing 12.8v
I have also checked the reading from the plug in volt meter with DVM and are more or less the same
This doesn't seem right to me any ideas would be a great help. ThanksDiscovery 4 HSE 2010
Freelander 2 XS 2009
Discovery 2 2001: Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8 1992: Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 :Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 1985:Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 1979:Gone
5th Jan 2020 7:42 pm
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 762
looks to be working perfect to me they have an intelligent charge system that doesn't charge if its not needed when your on the gas and does a little top up when you brake supposedly to reduce emissions it might be called kinetic regeneration or such like do a search I'm sure there's plenty on here about it but don't worry its how they should workplease excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
5th Jan 2020 8:35 pm
Womble64
Member Since: 19 Oct 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 31
Thanks for putting my mind at rest I can continue my journey tomorrow without worry and enjoy a few days away.Discovery 4 HSE 2010
Freelander 2 XS 2009
Discovery 2 2001: Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8 1992: Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 :Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 1985:Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 1979:Gone
5th Jan 2020 8:54 pm
greg00
Member Since: 08 Dec 2017
Location: Zurich
Posts: 162
Is this any different to a D3 V8 because I have similar readings and was afraid it was too low. I read often about ‚normal‘ voltage of well above 14V with engine running. Mine’s only at +-12.8V
5th Jan 2020 11:54 pm
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 762
D3 has a different system so doesn't work the same wayplease excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
6th Jan 2020 10:48 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
greg00 wrote:
Is this any different to a D3 V8 because I have similar readings and was afraid it was too low. I read often about ‚normal‘ voltage of well above 14V with engine running. Mine’s only at +-12.8V
As I do lots of short trips mine practically lives at 15 volts, only if I do any sort of run over 50 miles will the voltage drop to 14 volts.
6th Jan 2020 2:38 pm
L319
Member Since: 14 Dec 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 2080
My D3 will run at 15V + after start up & depending on state of charge will stay at that for some time, eventually dropping back to 14.2V or slightly lower in the summer
6th Jan 2020 2:43 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8072
greg00 wrote:
Is this any different to a D3 V8 because I have similar readings and was afraid it was too low. I read often about ‚normal‘ voltage of well above 14V with engine running. Mine’s only at +-12.8V
On start up and for the first few minutes in winter (cold weather) the charge rate should be over 15volts, max 15.5v. This is why AGM batteries are not recommended for the D3, and drop back to 14.8volts.
This is dependant on what other devices are running, heated seats screens etc.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
6th Jan 2020 6:39 pm
greg00
Member Since: 08 Dec 2017
Location: Zurich
Posts: 162
I read voltage on IIDtool and it never reaches 15V - I guess 14.5V max.
I replaced the battery with an Exide EA1000 not long ago and never had any starting or electronic issues (except brake switch). I‘d like to avoid damaging the battery.
With these low readings do you suggest replacing alternator asap or just keep an eye on it?
6th Jan 2020 8:29 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8072
14.5v is perfectly acceptable, buy a simple plug in cigar lighter voltmeter and check the voltage before starting the engine, 12v or a little lower is good, anything below 9.5v when cranking will throw a fault. leave the volt meter plugged in permanently. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
6th Jan 2020 9:02 pm
dgardel
Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: Greater Venice
Posts: 2025
eightfoot wrote:
looks to be working perfect to me they have an intelligent charge system that doesn't charge if its not needed when your on the gas and does a little top up when you brake supposedly to reduce emissions it might be called kinetic regeneration or such like do a search I'm sure there's plenty on here about it but don't worry its how they should work
I confirm!!!Discovery 5 tdv6 HSE Corris Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition IID Pro MV License
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
but don't worry its how they should work
