Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 21
crash mode FIXED
Took me weeks to find
Car went in crash mode randomly (so I thought) during cold starts.
Using my previous-life-electronics-knowledge, I started looking for "cold-bridges" -as a Dutch speaking Belgian would say - since nothing else found on this lovely forum worked during my quest.
Began using my Flir to check spot temps when in crash and when not in crash.
Bingo : dashtemp was +8°C (outside temp -2°C, little sunshine softly warming up behind the windscreen) when it started and lower when not starting, while rest of the car showed more or less steady temps alover.
2 possibilities : steering wheel or instrument pack, must say I didn't like my options
Didn't want to fiddle with the airbag so took out the instrument pack.
Before messing with the smd board inside, I had to be sure so I tested it by using my daughter's cherry pit heat pad. Cable from IP is long enough to put it on the dash on top of the heat pad.
Succes: car started at 4°C dash temp (no sunshine so dash temp was "normally" too low to start the car)
Pushed by despair, I started looking into the board and hours later I found the 5 Mhz crystal was not perfectly positioned.
Reposition, solder, FIXED
Picture is from before, for testing the pack had to be closed (needles, open contacts...) so no picture after repair.
Click image to enlarge
Hope it can help someone.
2nd Feb 2018 3:02 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4400
Nice work. It's never easy finding random faults, let alone random faults on a PCB.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
2nd Feb 2018 3:09 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
excellent
thanks for the info.
2nd Feb 2018 3:23 pm
Bruno
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 21
Still can't get over it: one solder-pin of this little 7 mm by 2 mm thing shuts down the whole truck without a proper or even a suggesting diagnostic code (iid tool nor maxidiag md808pro...), had thousands of codes from srs to transfer to epb, you name it, it was there, exept the icp
2nd Feb 2018 6:05 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
I would bet a pint or several you are probably the only D3 owner in the whole world to carry out this repair in their own car
Still can't get over it: one solder-pin of this little 7 mm by 2 mm thing shuts down the whole truck without a proper or even a suggesting diagnostic code (iid tool nor maxidiag md808pro...), had thousands of codes from srs to transfer to epb, you name it, it was there, exept the icp
Never had a 300tdi immobiliser spider to deal with then ?
2nd Feb 2018 6:18 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13612
Hi Bruno
wished to say hats off to u for finding it
2nd Feb 2018 6:24 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8072
I'm still stumped on the fifth line!- what's a Flir do?It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
2nd Feb 2018 6:25 pm
Bruno
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 21
lynalldiscovery wrote:
I would bet a pint or several you are probably the only D3 owner in the whole world to carry out this repair in their own car
To my opinion that is exactly LR's strenght: don't look at the obvious or the cheapest DTC's any Chinese (with all respect) can throw at you. When you know the (build in ???, any child could spot my crystal-problem, nevertheless "checked" for control with hand-written marker on the pcb) weaknesses of this robust truck it could easily run for 50 years or so. One has to make a living, but to what expence?
2nd Feb 2018 6:33 pm
Bruno
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 21
M3DPO wrote:
I'm still stumped on the fifth line!- what's a Flir do?
the Flir (it's a brand) can visualize thermal images on a screen: standalone, pc, smartphone,...
2nd Feb 2018 6:39 pm
OJ
Member Since: 01 Oct 2017
Location: Loch Leven
Posts: 725
gstuart wrote:
Hi Bruno
wished to say hats off to u for finding it
Yes Bruno second that, well done
2nd Feb 2018 6:41 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
M3DPO wrote:
I'm still stumped on the fifth line!- what's a Flir do?
It's what you get at the barbers. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
2nd Feb 2018 6:51 pm
Bruno
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 21
Hardware17 wrote:
Bruno wrote:
Still can't get over it: one solder-pin of this little 7 mm by 2 mm thing shuts down the whole truck without a proper or even a suggesting diagnostic code (iid tool nor maxidiag md808pro...), had thousands of codes from srs to transfer to epb, you name it, it was there, exept the icp
Never had a 300tdi immobiliser spider to deal with then ?
back then I didn't make enough money
Maybe it's worthed trying the heat pad trick around the immobilzer itself?
One thing I had years ago with my Mercedes E200 is that the connection in the key itself between the sword and the pcb had worn out, so no "antenna" from the key...
2nd Feb 2018 6:52 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Forward Looking Infra Red.
Or thermal camera to see hot components, or point where there is a short
2nd Feb 2018 7:16 pm
Bruno
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Antwerp
Posts: 21
Hey Pete, as far as my knowledge goes, infra red is only used for locks, alarms, stuff like that, immobilizer connects the key to the car whilst a transponder code in the key and the ecu. Most of these keys even have a vissible coil inside, could be key hardware failure as simple as a bad battery or more common, coil comming loose due to years of pocket-abuse
Earlier infra red keys were paired via infra red but they worked or didn't work at all, so a "spider" is to my opinion not to be found at the infra red side of the story, unless you've got a problem with the IR receiver not sending clearance to the ecu, which is very doubtfull if the car locks/unlocks by remote.
IR send from the key though can be checked easily with a smartphone camera
I am not an expert, let's say I got a bit of expirience
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Using my previous-life-electronics-knowledge, I started looking for "cold-bridges" -as a Dutch speaking Belgian would say 
- 
(no sunshine so dash temp was "normally" too low to start the car)
