Robbie wrote:

Made a couple of patch leads to provide a fused feed to the left and right lights, which also restores normal parking light function:

Click image to enlarge

Installed in the CJB:

Click image to enlarge

I've left the modification so that it triggers the front & rear LEDs from the unlock command, but it takes 2 minutes to change them to ignition switched or to revert to standard.

I don't have a D4 yet... but I already have some facelifted Xenon lights to go on if it doesn't come with them.

I simply need to make 2 of the above wires with a 10a fuse each end and plug into the fuse you've labelled on the wires? Seems oh so simple... I have doubt

lrovy wrote:

I'll sound like a broken record - 49/50 side is 5 amps, not 10 amps.
I'd strongly suggest to stick to that 5 amps on that side. It is 5 amps (meaning fuse will break at 5 amps) and not 10 amps (stronger current) to protect the equipment behind.

This is a fundamental but common misunderstanding.

The fuses play no role in protecting the equipment behind them. Indeed, the device behind the fuse may even be the point of failure that causes the current to rise beyond safe levels.

More explanation, if interested:

The fuses exist to protect the wiring - nothing else. The fuse rating is selected in order to break the circuit before the wiring it protects hits unsafe temperature levels. The current required to actually melt the fuse is also considerably greater than the rated value. The actual current required to damage the wiring depends on many factors, arguably the most significant of which is the gauge of the wiring.

Same goes for domestic electrics. If you take the most simple of domestic services - say a direct radial circuit from a Consumer Unit direct to an electric oven, you would probably find that it is served by a 32 amp Circuit Breaker, but:

- the oven does not receive any 'protection' from the CB
- the oven does not required 32 amps (that would be around 8000 W)
- the CB actually trips at 3 to 5 times the rated value (say 150 Amps, or around 37500 W)

The electrician that installs and certifies the circuit above has not lost his marbles and will be considering wiring gauge, insulation type, bundle density, environment, orientation and diversity. The electrician does not really care about the actual device at the end of the circuit or even know what it will be.

Above all, if you doubt my competency, methodology or testing then please do not install this modification.

I could be anybody, even a kid sat in my mum's basement eating crisps.

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lrovy wrote:

Robbie, you're right on "to protect equipment behind". I'm not sure right now it there's just a "bulb" as "equipment" or anything else, like a sensor or something to detect that bulb is broken. If there's more than a single element installed one after another on the line, then shortcut at a position which would cause high amperage to go though could cause a risk to not only "equipment" but also the wiring. Not sure what's the power/current rating "equipment" is designed to survive and for sure cabling should survive way higher one.

It is just common sense to use 5amps fuse as original one and not 10amps and everyone does modification under their own responsibility. It is more about the fact that installing 10amps one in place of 5amps poses risk that if something goes south then it is double the current which will go through and preference is to not take a risk.

The ones I've used are like BP/HHH from the http://escortradarforum.com/forums/attachm...1369540169.[/url]

signed by Kiddo, eating popcorn whilst sitting on mum's naps

ok, kidding - really appreciate all your help and idea with the mod.

So how did you use two bussmann bp/hhh connectors next to each other in the CJB, surely one would have to have been turned by 180 degrees?