Member Since: 01 Mar 2016
Location: Northampton
Posts: 566
Dinitrol/waxoyl
Has anyone had their D4 chassis treated? Is there any issues regarding voiding the LR warranty on a new car?
22nd Mar 2016 9:42 pm
Dannyson
Member Since: 15 Oct 2014
Location: Newquay, Cornwall
Posts: 820
I was going to have it done to mine when brand new back in July last year. Various discussions on here (I can't recall where) made me decide not to bother. It seems its not an area subject to catastrophic rust issues ..... and I live on the coast.
I could be wrong however 2016MY Discovery HSE - Black
2009MY Toyota Land Cruiser (Lc4) - Black
23rd Mar 2016 11:36 pm
kirkyworld
Member Since: 01 Mar 2016
Location: Northampton
Posts: 566
Thank you for the reply. I have a D2 and they are prone to catastrophic chassis rust so I was thinking it would be £300 well spent but you may be right. I'm surprised nobody else has replied, I guess that's what happens when you're a newbie?
24th Mar 2016 9:08 am
DG Site Moderator
Member Since: 12 Dec 2005
Location: The Gaff
Posts: 50947
I think that you would want to clarify the warranty position with your dealer tbh.
The question on application would revolve around how long you intended to keep it ....but bear in mind that we have seen a few early D3's stripped down to chassis with nothing but the lightest surface rust.21 year LR veteran > D2 GS 2003 > D3 S 2006 > D3 HSE 2009 > D4 HSE 2013 > D4 HSE 2015 > D5 HSE 2018 > DS HSE R-Dynamic P300e 2021
24th Mar 2016 9:14 am
kirkyworld
Member Since: 01 Mar 2016
Location: Northampton
Posts: 566
That is very positive, seems JLR have made some improvements since the 1's and 2's. Some late 2's have been scrapped in under 10 years due to catastrophic chassis failure. I plan to keep it 5 years (but that's what I said about the RR I swapped for it and it lasted 3) But this vehicle is much better suited to our family needs.
24th Mar 2016 9:18 am
Numpty
Member Since: 18 Aug 2012
Location: Bolton
Posts: 673
When I had my 2006 done in 2012 the areas starting to rust were where the rear body folds over behind the bumper, the chassis structure that holders the spare wheel in place i.e. bracing between chassis rails and the lower edges of the sills which are hidden behind the plastic sill covers.
I'd get it done if not for yourself for poor smucks like me who will have to keep it til its 14 years old!
Member Since: 18 Aug 2012
Location: Bolton
Posts: 673
See photos 10, 11 and 12 in Robbies post which show the outer sill with the plastic covers removed. Its the bottom flange of this sill which rust due to all the crud. Obviously Robbie's car is fairly new.
Member Since: 17 Mar 2014
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 1399
Hi Kirky.
If only keeping the car a few years, I'd save your money but there are plenty of us out there
that like a car and will keep it until it dies.
Had mine professionally done 3 months after getting it in 2014 ( 08 D3 HSE) and there was only surface rust but the crossmember behind the bumper looked the worst.
Had a D2 for 13 years, loved the car and had that done at Rustmasters and it had no rust at all but the engine died and I couldn't justify replacing it as already had the D3 as well.
I'm very loyal to my cars and whilst it can take me a while to make up my mind to buy a new one, I tend to keep them as have never been a fan of the "latest, shiniest new toys".
24th Mar 2016 11:19 am
adam
Member Since: 20 Sep 2005
Location: Home and Happy
Posts: 6917
Only MOT failures I'm aware of due to rust are rear brake pipes - might be worth looking at these if you don't want to do the whole car
I had mine done 2 years ago when I decided to keep her
24th Mar 2016 11:28 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Save your money as there are no areas of concern on the body or chassis. The only known weakness common cross all models are the steel brake pipes; but as these can be replaced (in this country at least) with aftermarket copper alloy it may or may not be worth it, depending on condition.
If corrosion protection is needed (say unusual conditions, accident damage, aftermarket accessories etc) please put down the wooden club, flint axe and the waxoyl and use a modern product that can actually get into tiny places and does not attack bits of the suspension, connectors or wiring.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
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Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
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24th Mar 2016 2:23 pm
gardendisco
Member Since: 05 Jun 2015
Location: Belfast
Posts: 112
Looking for some advice on whether it's worth applying some underbody protection to MY06 and didn't want to start another thread. It has surface rust around the rear cross member which is very noticeable if the towing cover is not on. I don't think its the penetrating rust that is really worrying although I think it would be good to have it tidied up so was looking some help.
I had originally thought waxoyl would be the way to go but having read various threads Dinitrol definitely seems the stuff to be applying. The only local specialist main garage doing the waxoyl treatment quoted me £550 and said they only did it in the summer and all their slots for this year are taken. So yes they wanted me to book it in for August 2017. For one its much more than I had expected to pay, the time frame is stupid and they would use waxoyl when now I want Dinitrol. Leaving me with a) not doing it or b) doing it myself. I am thinking of b). So my questions.
I was thinking of removing the rear bumper and wire brushing and coating with the spray on dinitrol that can be bought. Not really sure which is best and is probably a silly question but I looked at that new vehicle I don't know which is the best type to apply, underseal/cavity? (And how many litres approximately am I likely to need for compressor or aerosol application?)
Will probably do the chassis rails at the same time, any other areas to do? (from other threads it seems ill advised to spray everywhere) I am cautious of smearing a host of sensors.
Reversing up on small car ramps in extended mode should give me easy enough access I would think. But some have said about removing wheels and covering brake assemblies. Is this an issue?
My planned prep was going to be scraping with a wire brush and then applying. Again worried about steam washing underneath with all electrickery and sensors down there. Will this be suitable prep. Car has not really ventured out much over the winter this year due to me being away.
Does this sound like a reasonable approach or am I wasting time and money with this notion, where perhaps black hammerite would just hide it cosmetically. I do plan on keeping the car for the next number of years.
Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.
2nd May 2016 10:13 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
For the rear crossmember a quick clean and a coat of hammerite smooth black does the job.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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