Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
DIY Cambelt change - read first
Following my cambelt change disaster, I have put together the following which someone may find useful, interesting or as a warning to DIY enthusiasts. Apologies for the length of this write-up !
I changed the cambelt myself which I have to say was a straightforward job (or so I thought) and quite enjoyable using Disco Mikey’s excellent write up. The hardest part was working out how to set the tension on the belt tensioner. This is where disaster struck, as during the process of taking the tensioner back off and putting on again, I some how put the old bolt back in. I discovered later that from 2006 models, tensioner bolts have a reduced shank to reduce stresses at the weakest part – where the thread starts. The original bolt which accidentally re-used was a straight shank.
On putting everything back together, the car ran great, with a noticeable increase in fuel economy.
A week later whilst SWMBO was driving it, and whilst pulling out into a main road the engine just stopped handbrake locked on and illuminated dashboard. Used emergency release and pushed car to safety. Plugged in my BBS FCR and to my horror saw Cambelt sensor faults on both sides.
Vehicle recovered by AA who following an examination with a torch in the oil filler hole whilst asking me to turn engine over – diagnosed snapped cambelt. Took vehicle to local garage who found the cambelt tensioner sat in bottom of the engine bay and a large hole in the cambelt cover. New engine was the only route mechanic said, and suggested if I sold the car as it was, I may get £4000.
Took the car home and stripped remains of cambelt cover off and found the remains of the tensioner bolt protruding from the mount surrounded by a lot of belt debris
Found the remaining bit of bolt and following closer examination suspected hydrogen embitterment that caused bolt failure, still not sure, but what did become apparent was that I had refitted the original bolt. Despite the fact I torqued it to the recommended 24NM it still gave way.
Had a vehicle inspection completed by engineers and a report produced which confirmed no evidence of over tightening or locking substance.
Now on the advice given, was looking at a replacement engine. Looked at the ebay offers of £3450 supply and fit but was scared off by the horror stories I read with some of these firms.
To cut a long story short I put everything back together, set the timing using my original crank shaft marks and locking pins, turned the crank by hand and all felt good, with good compression. Thinking I had nothing to lose I started the engine and to my utter amazement she fired into life and sounded great.
However oil pressure light came on after 10 mins.
Took the vehicle via the big yellow taxi to main dealer, who checked her over, replaced cambelt oil change ect and said she seemed ok, cylinder tests all ok but oil light kept coming on after 10 mins. Dealer had no idea with oil light but offered to change oil pump for £800. I took a risk and drove her home 14 miles with oil light on. Drained oil and took sump off (thinking it may have been a loose oil pick up pipe)
Found 3 x 10mm needle bearings sat in the sump.
Click image to enlarge
Contacted dealers, nobody new where these could have come from. 10forcash suspected possible top end damage. My suspicions which later proved correct that they were from a rocker. Just to rule it out I bought a new oil pump and a rocker just to try and identify the bearings, saw them straight away in the new rocker/ cam follower.
New rocker on the right. Broken rocker on left.
Stripped rocker covers off at a mates garage which was a job and a half and found damaged and displaced rocker. Also rust down the length of injector. Cam retainer/ top bearing shell also split. Due to this the oil flow when warm was unrestricted through the hydraulic lifter and also the bearing which resulted in low oil pressure – hence the oil light.
As the cam shaft retainers are all line bored, you cannot just replace it. To lift camshaft our required full body removal.
So decided on replacement cylinder head, as suspected head gasket as well due to rusty injector. Used a Manchester company and bought a refurbished unit – proper one not a scrap rebuild.
As it now required a body lift to change the cylinder head it went to a local Indi.
6 weeks later and a lighter wallet I now have my pride and joy back. She runs as smooth as ever.
So if your cambelt does go, not necessarily a new engine, despite what a number of so called professionals told me. The valves are vertical rather than angled. When mine went, it was at slow speed, one piston smacked the valve up displacing the rocker/ follower and splitting the cam retaining bearing. No damage to the valve though or pistons etc.
Click image to enlarge
So to finish with the big question, would I do it again……….
Would I b s – an expensive lesson learnt.
Many thanks to all the forum members who advised me, to Wiggs especially for all the diagrams and The Large one for all the bits and bobs !
SWMBO only now 'just' talking to me
9th May 2012 12:35 pm
BrianT
Member Since: 17 Nov 2009
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 2069
Excellent write up.
Hope you have no more worries/failures in the future
BrianTMY 16 Landmark Santorini Black
MY 05 SE Adriatic Blue (Gone but not forgotten)
9th May 2012 12:44 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
great result in the end Matty
This was the result of my Timing belt change on Monday...
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9th May 2012 12:56 pm
Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
Nice one Bodsy
Mine did sound like that but for just a week
Forgot to add, when removing / refitting injectors, you do not need the refitting kit at £300, TD5 copper washers are the same size and do the job great, and at 17p each are a big saving
9th May 2012 1:02 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
I remember your initial post explaining what had occured and my heart went out to you Matt.
I purposely don't often read the "disaster" threads as they often put the fear of god into me and I find myself listeneing for every new squeak or rattle when driving.
Glad to hear you're up and running again. Mods:
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9th May 2012 2:53 pm
Matty 2332
Member Since: 02 Dec 2008
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 670
Many thanks Narpy, Iam still driving with my ear to the dashboard but i'm sure this will go with time
Drove 60 miles to the coast at the weekend, its first run, a rather nerve wracking journey, on the way back yesterday my heart sank when I saw I was leaving a trail of smoke. Pulled up and found that the fuel return line on the injector had popped out, a little split pin had worked loose spilling fuel all over. Fortunate it didn't catch fire Thankfully, with the help of a piece of copper wire I secured it and all will be well when I put a new pin back in.
The joys of motoring
9th May 2012 3:51 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
Bodsy wrote:
great result in the end Matty
This was the result of my Timing belt change on Monday...
So does that mean that Bodsy now does timing belt changes?!
6th Sep 2017 4:49 pm
James W
Member Since: 27 Mar 2008
Location: Wirral, UK
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D4 XS, gone, much loved, never forgotten
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6th Sep 2017 5:12 pm
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6th Sep 2017 5:15 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
I didn't even think to check the date before I posted!!!
6th Sep 2017 7:07 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4400
Bodsy, in the engine start video, you commented on the clicking/tapping noise on start up. What is that? Mine does it every start, for a few seconds. I keep worrying it;s something terminal! Is it the cam chains and tensioners? Mine mainly rattles on the OS.Richard
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6th Sep 2017 8:02 pm
Bodsy Site Sponsor
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6th Sep 2017 10:49 pm
Tripe
Member Since: 28 Jun 2015
Location: Tasmania
Posts: 285
Not quite sure what you mean? when you are talking about the difference in the 2006 and new cam shaft bolt?
Before I did my timing belt I was worried about the tensioner only requiring 24Nm of torque, I experimented with a bolt and torque wrench and found that when the bolt had 24Nm of torque an extra 1/8 of a turn of the torque wrench put 50Nm of torque on the bolt.
This highlighted to me, the importance of not over tightening the bolt.
I actually went out an purchased a new low torque wrench (5-25Nm) with a calibration certificate, specifically for the Cam shaft bolt.
6th Sep 2017 11:20 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Well this maybe a year old thread, but highlights a 3rd (or 4th) way to for the engine is be destroyed.
7th Sep 2017 12:44 pm
Rocksteadee
Member Since: 16 Nov 2020
Location: Southampton and Dartford
Posts: 40
Spoke to my tame mechanic and apparently the rockers are designed to break in the event of a cam belt failure. Cheaper than bent broken valves pitted pistons etc3 RR Classics (last one broke off-road) All gone
S3, take off road, break, repair, repeat. Gone
Disco 2, for sale, 12 month MOT, next one looking expensive (r)
Hence
Disco 3, already electrickery faults
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
s – an expensive lesson learnt. 
Thankfully, with the help of a piece of copper wire I secured it and all will be well when I put a new pin back in.
