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Sturge
Member Since: 02 Nov 2005
Location: West Chiltington, West Sussex
Posts: 872
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Hi
Looking at replacing my own brake pads on the back for the first time. Looked at the brake bible and it looks pretty straight forward. I have spanners and sockets along with a torque wrench.
What else do I need. I need to buy some axle stands - any recommendations? I have a bottle jack which I use when changing the wheels (the ex mercedes sprinter one) but guess I need the axle stands - thinking of these http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/to...xle-stands .
Do I need something special for the caliper? I have these for woodwork http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-Multifix...B0001P19LI would they work or should I buy some proper G clamps or a special tool?
Is there a preferred copper grease or is it all the same really?
How long should this take me? Fed up with paying dealer prices for these jobs...
Thanks
Paul TDV6 HSE Lux (2014MY)
TDV6 HSE (2006MY - owned for 9 years and 150,000! - now replaced)
Mini Cooper SD 5 door
TVR Chimaera 450
Series II 1960 Diesel
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18th Aug 2015 2:13 pm |
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Sturge
Member Since: 02 Nov 2005
Location: West Chiltington, West Sussex
Posts: 872
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also , should I buy the genuine pads from yeovil or somewhere, or am I fine with the non branded ones (and which would you suggest)
Thanks TDV6 HSE Lux (2014MY)
TDV6 HSE (2006MY - owned for 9 years and 150,000! - now replaced)
Mini Cooper SD 5 door
TVR Chimaera 450
Series II 1960 Diesel
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18th Aug 2015 2:16 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Trw or brembo or ebc pads are fine or genuine, all are fine.
Just changing the rear pads, it will take you longer to jack the car up safely and get the wheel off than it will to change the pads..
Copperslip is usually the same although some can be slightly runnier than others
I'd recommend 6t stands but that's just me, I've used those same ones before that you linked to and it's fine. You can do one side at a time no problem.
A clamp, or proper brake piston retraction tools, or a large screwdriver to lever the pad back against the piston (trying to keep it as square as possible. Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
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18th Aug 2015 2:31 pm |
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Sturge
Member Since: 02 Nov 2005
Location: West Chiltington, West Sussex
Posts: 872
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Thanks Ian
Daft question, but where do you put the axle stand once jacked up - on the chassis rail - adjacent to where you jack up from?
thanks
Paul TDV6 HSE Lux (2014MY)
TDV6 HSE (2006MY - owned for 9 years and 150,000! - now replaced)
Mini Cooper SD 5 door
TVR Chimaera 450
Series II 1960 Diesel
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18th Aug 2015 2:35 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Yes, on the chassis rail wherever is convenient as long as it's safe and as level as possible. Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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18th Aug 2015 2:38 pm |
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ROY_H
Member Since: 30 Jun 2014
Location: South Hams Devon
Posts: 368
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Just done my brakes, front discs and pads and rear pads.
Jacking up was DEFINITELY the hardest part. With the old D2 I just put the jack under the axle and up it went with very little effort. The D4 was a bit of a shock at the rear as the wheel started tilting under on the wishbones as I lifted the car, very disconcerting. used a 3-ton rated jack with a good lift range and wacked the axle stand under the chassis ASAP !!
Otherwise it was a doddle, very similar set up to the D2.
Oh, and I used some ceramic grease I bought instead of Copaslip. Supposed to have a higher melting point Morris Dancers: Drinkers with A Dance Problem
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18th Aug 2015 3:09 pm |
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Sturge
Member Since: 02 Nov 2005
Location: West Chiltington, West Sussex
Posts: 872
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Thanks. TRW pads and lead ordered from Steve, and 6t Clark axle stands also ordered.
Got to be worth it to save a few hundred quid! TDV6 HSE Lux (2014MY)
TDV6 HSE (2006MY - owned for 9 years and 150,000! - now replaced)
Mini Cooper SD 5 door
TVR Chimaera 450
Series II 1960 Diesel
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18th Aug 2015 3:09 pm |
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Sturge
Member Since: 02 Nov 2005
Location: West Chiltington, West Sussex
Posts: 872
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all done, took me hour and a half all told, including reading the instructions while I did it. Dead easy and worth the work. That included unboxing the axle stands that i bought, and removing the wheels
thanks for the help TDV6 HSE Lux (2014MY)
TDV6 HSE (2006MY - owned for 9 years and 150,000! - now replaced)
Mini Cooper SD 5 door
TVR Chimaera 450
Series II 1960 Diesel
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7th Sep 2015 10:55 pm |
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lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
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Point to bear in mind is copaslip is fine for the pad edge's etc but is no good as a lube for the calliper slide's as it is not a lube but an anti seize paste.
We had loads of callipers refused warranty as there was evidence of copaslip on the slide's.
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8th Sep 2015 7:50 am |
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Alrawas
Member Since: 27 May 2013
Location: Oman
Posts: 23
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Hi Sturge , can i ask you , you only change the rear pads ? What torque wrench you hve ? Did you change the brake fluid or no need ! Thanks
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7th Jan 2016 5:40 pm |
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Woolmeister
Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3457
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My indy does not advocate the application of copper grease on the lugs of the pads. His reasoning is that it is a very dirty environment anyway and dirt will only stick to grease making a very dirty, greasy, mess. I'm inclined to agree with his logic.
Instead he puts new stainless shims on every time and makes sure that they fit properly on the caliper carrier brackets such that the lugs of the pads are free to move back and forth inside the stainless shims.
What do the rest of you think to this? lynalldiscovery, I get the sense you work in the trade in some way?
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7th Jan 2016 5:58 pm |
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