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Diggler
Member Since: 07 Jun 2008
Location: Sutton Coldfield
Posts: 52
  
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I have had my disco for nearly 3 years - and I bought is originally specifically as I was doing a season in Morzine.
Imagine my annoyance at having a rubbish non working FBH; which would only work for a day or so after being reset at a dealer.
I recently had it in for another service; i mentioned the persistent trouble with it and as we have had a cold spell thought it would be high time they fixed it - their solution was to replace it and as my warranty had long expired it was going to cost £650.
As a result I did some digging and thanks to IanP's webasto software and harness trick have managed to resurrect it 
However, i did have to do a little more than other people who have had success and thought i would share my pain...
I created the harness, plugged in the PC, cleared faults and tried to start it; this i did many times and always got the same result - it would attempt to start, kick out a little smoke and shut down. Occassionally I would get the flame detect indicator lighting up in the software but even with this it would shut down.
I then started to troubleshoot; and for those of you with the same issues this is what I did:
I summised that since the software indicated all the components were working that it was probably gunky inside. After each step below I would try and start it using the software. If it failed I would remove the 20A fuse to reset its lockout state.
1. Using a compressor tried to blow air into it whilst it was starting - no joy
2. Using the software, tried to burn of residual gunk by lighting the glowplug at 50% for 60 seconds. Thi resulted in smoke and the occassional pop as it caught.
3. I then tested the fuel pump by disconnecting the fuel hose and running the fuel pump test in the diagnostics, catching any fuel with an old cup - the fuel pump worked and I could see fuel dribbling out.
4. Using a fine piece of copper wire I pushed it through the fuel intake in the heater, and when I pulled it out there was some gunk on the end.
5. Using the compressor and using an old value from an innertube I was able to flush the fuel line by blowing into the fuel intake on the heater; there was initially some pressure and then a what i can only describe as a mist of fuel came out of the air intake (I had removed the flexipipe and baffle from the air intake).
6. I plummed it all back together and it started first time.
I therefore believe that it has been gunked up for a while and the act of cleaning out the fuel intake has resolved it.
When it first started there was a lot of smoke; since then it has started every time without fail and now burns very cleanly indeed, and the disco gets toasty very quickly.
For those who are going through the same process I have the following observations:
1. the exhaust gets HOT, it burns hands and insulation of any dangling wires 
2. the heater should burn cleanly - if there is a lot of smoke it is probably a bit gunky inside
3. the software is great - and allows for rapid retesting
4. In my disco MY05, the heater interlock can be reset by removing the fuse - this can even be done with the PC still connected and running the diagnostics. Interestingly it clears the interlock but the faults remain in the log. The fuse only needs to be removed for a moment - no need for any 10 minute nonsense.
5. Be persistent - I must have cycled the heater 50 times before I had success.
Hope this helps
Matt
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 17th Dec 2010 4:10 pm |
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JPW
Member Since: 19 Mar 2007
Location: Essex
Posts: 217
 
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I can't now find IanP's post on the FBH and the Webasto software. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Many thanks
Paul
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| 17th Dec 2010 4:22 pm |
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MikeS2005
Member Since: 13 Sep 2008
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 920
 
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Hi
Thats great to know mine is an 05 model as well and Ive just had it in to the dealers Stratstone in Edinburgh to have some fuel damper fitted that was suppossed to make it work, guess what it still dosnt work.
I phoned them to ask if they purged the FBH with their diagnostics unit and they told me that the IDS dosnt have a function to do this so I told them how do you know its now working only to be told we dont you will have to leave it with us over night so we can see what it is doing in the morning, well guys its not working dosnt really need a so called tech to tell me that dosnt work, so the question for Stratstones would be how do you get it to work if you cant start it under diagnostics.
I dont think they know what they are doing when it comes down to the FBH or dont they know how to work the diagnostic IDS system, or can some one tell me if the IDS can do this so I can tell the now it all tech that it can be done and where to find it
cheers
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| 17th Dec 2010 4:48 pm |
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NickJ
Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: there's no f in point
Posts: 2137
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Matt,
as I dont have the software/harness/PC but think I have a FBH that's refusing to burn fuel to heat, what steps could you suggest I follow to spring it back into life?
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| 17th Dec 2010 6:47 pm |
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Diggler
Member Since: 07 Jun 2008
Location: Sutton Coldfield
Posts: 52
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The software is free - from IanP's post above.
You can make your own harness; and if you are comfortable using little push terminals don't even need the proper plug (which is what I did on the first attempt) - the only thing you need is a cheapo OBD-2 adapter - these can be had off ebay - often advertised for VW / Audi.
If you want to try without the software - and let the car try and start it I suggest you reset it via fuse 28. I think the most certain way of doing it would be to open the bonnet and close the doors and wait for the car to go to sleep (wait for the park brake to go out), unplug the big connector to the heater and unplug fuse 28 - this should cut all power to it - and if it behaves like mine - reset it.
If you have access to a compressor remove the air-intake hose (silver u bend shaped hose from heater to air intake baffle) - twist it out like a large screw and blast into the combustion chamber. You could also take off the fuel pipe which is located below the air intake - it is crimped on over a nobble on the fuel pipe - using pliers being careful not to puncture the pipe it should pull off. Using a fine guage piece of wire you should be able to easily push about 4 inches of it into the fuel inlet pipe just to clean it out - and if you want to go as far as me a good blast from the compressor will shift any residual gunk ( I used an old value from an innertube to get a good connection between the compressor and the pipe - I found just blowing air onto it didn't do the trick) - what amazed me about this is that the pressure built up (as shown on the compressor guage) and then freed blowing a mist of fuel out of the air intake - I really think some dirt or oil deposits had blocked the jets.
Put it all back together and give it a go - it really has been like night and day - gone from not working to working 100% and with hardly any smoke at all - earlier to check it was working I had to put my hand *near* the exhaust pipe exit to feel the pressure of the fumes coming out as it was burning so cleanly.
Good Luck and let us know how you get on
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| 17th Dec 2010 7:37 pm |
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NickJ
Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: there's no f in point
Posts: 2137
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okay ta, I might give it a go. Two (probably totally dumb) questions though:
1. I'm assuming the FBH's not working. How obvious is it that it's working? Is there a simple test?
2. How do I get it to fire up if the temperature is too warm? is there a way of tricking it into working? (or at least trying to)
I dont want to do anything stupid and it blowing up (SWMBO wouldn't be happy, I'm guessing)
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| 17th Dec 2010 7:46 pm |
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Diggler
Member Since: 07 Jun 2008
Location: Sutton Coldfield
Posts: 52
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The easiest way to check it is working is see if the exhaust is kicking anything out - If you reach underneath the car by the front left hand wheel you can see the exhaust - you will probably need to be at least kneeling and looking under the front to do this - if you have no joy there you can try to see if the exhaust is hot - but obviously skin burns easily
With the software you can force it to start no matter what the ambient temperature but as far as I know the car won't even send the start signal unless you have the snowflake on the dashboard - so unless it is cold enough it wont even try it.
However, this shouldn't stop you from trying to clear it out - it just means you won't know if it worked until it gets cold enough.
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| 17th Dec 2010 7:53 pm |
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NickJ
Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: there's no f in point
Posts: 2137
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The stuff on IanP's post looks far to scary for me to try in case I get something wrong. Might try to clear it out without forcing it to fire up. Pity there's not an 'on/off' switch that can be fitted, but I guess that's asking too much.
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| 17th Dec 2010 8:01 pm |
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