How to fit new wishbone (lower arm) and track rod end
Hi Guys,
Here's how I changed my front wishbones (lower arms) and track rod ends. Pics are also available in my gallery on the RRS site.
Tools:
Jack
Axle Stand
Locking wheel nut key
5mm allen key
10mm long socket or with extender
15mm spanner
18mm socket or spanner
21mm socket
21mm spanner
24mm spanner x2
32mm Socket
hammer
Torque Wrench
Wire Brush
Thin flat bladed screwdriver
Consumables
Copper Grease
WD40
Torque Settings:
Track rod end ball joint nut - 70nm
Track rod end locking nuts - 53nm
Shock absorber and spring assembly to lower arm bolt - 300nm
Lower arm ball joint retaining nut - 115nm
Lower arm bolts - 275nm
Hub Nut - 230nm
Wheel bolts - 140nm
Prep:
Lower vehicle to access height
Lock vehicle in access height
Apply Electronic Park Brake (EPB)
Step 1
Using a thin, flat bladed screwdriver, carefully prise the centre cap out.
Click image to enlarge
Step 2
Using the 32mm socket, loosen the hub nut but do not remove
Click image to enlarge
Step 3
Loosen but do not remove the wheel nuts
Click image to enlarge
Step 4
Lower vehicle to access height and lock. Apply EPB then steer the wheels full lock towards the side you will be working on.
Click image to enlarge
Step 5
jack the vehicle up remembering to use axle stands to support the weight. Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel
Step 6
Locate the track rod end and spray the nuts with WD40. Use a wire brush to remove rust, especially on the nut located on the track rod itself.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Step 7
Using two 24mm spanners, undo the nut on the track rod.
Click image to enlarge
Step 8
Using an 18mm spanner, undo and remove the nut on the hub carrier. If the thread spins whilst you are trying to undo the nut, you may need to use a 5mm allen key to counter turn.
Click image to enlarge
Step 9
Undo the nut on the track rod and mark the point on the thread where the track rod end stops. This will ensure you put your replacement track rod end in the same position as the old one, so your tracking should be almost the same as before.
Step 10
Using a 15mm spanner, turn the track rod enough for it to loosen the thread within the track rod end.
Click image to enlarge
Step 11
Use a splitter tool to separate the track rod end from the hub carrier.
Click image to enlarge
do not break the tool
Click image to enlarge
Step 12
My replacement track rod end was slightly different to the one fitted to my RRS. Not sure if it's a discovery one or a newer item. I just have to take this into account when re-fitting onto the track rod.
Click image to enlarge
Screw the new track rod end onto the track rod, upto the point you marked in step 9 (take into account any difference in length between old and new track rod ends)
Tighten the nut on the track rod.
Click image to enlarge
Wishbone time....
Step 13
Leave the track rod separated from the hub carrier for the time being.
Remove the rear-most undertray by undoing the six 10mm bolts.
Click image to enlarge
Step 14
Spray WD40 on all the nuts and bolts connected to the wishbone. There are 3 bolts/nuts connected to the wishbone, as well as a ball joint with a nut on the underside of the hub carrier.
Here's the end result of what you're working with...
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Step 15
After the WD40 has had a chance to soak in, mark out the position of the eccentric cams at both the bolt end and the nut end. I did this by spraying primer around it. This will ensure that the tracking will be fairly similar once the new wishbone is in place.
Click image to enlarge
Step 16
Loosen and remove the four 24mm nuts around the wishbone.
Front
Click image to enlarge
Rear
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Suspension Strut
Click image to enlarge
Front of suspension strut (21mm)
Click image to enlarge
Lower Ball Joint
Click image to enlarge
Step 17
Remove the nut from the driveshaft (loosened in step 2) and push the driveshaft towards the engine so it pops out of the hub carrier. You may need to give it some gentle persuasion with a hammer and centre punch.
Step 18
Remove the suspension strut bolt.
Click image to enlarge
Step 19
Remove the lower ball joint from the hub carrier. You may need to use the splitter again - mine just hammered out.
Click image to enlarge
Step 20
You should be left with this.
Click image to enlarge
If your bolts are siezed inside the bush like my rear one was then having the wishbone in this position will give you a good angle to work with.
The siezed rear bolt
Click image to enlarge
I kept turning the bolt and fighting against the springiness of the bush, regularly spraying WD40. The bush eventually gave way and I was able to pull the bolt out without having to cut it.
Click image to enlarge
The bolt had rusted and siezed to the sleeve of the bush:
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Step 21
Pull all the bolts out and remove the wishbone.
Step 22
Gather new bolt/eccentric cam/washer/nut
Click image to enlarge
Apply anti-sieze copper grease to the bolts to prevent them siezing inside the bushes.
Click image to enlarge
I fitted my new wishbone in this order:
1) Lower ball joint to hub carrier (and line up driveshaft at this point)
2) Suspension strut
3) Rear Bolt
4) Front Bolt
Once the bolts are through, make sure that the eccentric cams fit in exactly the same place as before. This is where the markings made in step 15 are useful.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Step 23
Hand tighten the four 24mm nuts. I am told that they should be torque tightened once the car is sitting on the ground at normal ride height.
Step 24
Connect the track rod end to the hub carrier. Torque tighten the 18mm nut.
Click image to enlarge
step 25
Fit driveshaft nut but do not torque tighten just yet.
Step 26
Fit wheel and hand tighten the wheel nuts. Remove the axle stands and lower the car.
Step 27
Tighten hub nut to 230nm (used to be 275 but LR reduced it to 230 to put less stress on the bearings).
Click image to enlarge
Step 28
Jack up the car. Remove the wheel and make a notch in the hub nut using a flat chisel.
Step 29
Fit wheel and nuts, lower the car and torque tighten wheel nuts to 140nm
Step 30
Fit centre cap
Click image to enlarge
Step 31
Take the locking wheel nut out of the wheel
Step 32
Raise the suspension to normal ride height and torque tighten the four 24mm nuts.
Step 33
Attach the rear undertray (six 10mm bolts)
Step 34
Get the tracking done.
Give yourself a pat on the back - you've just saved yourself approx £400
17th Nov 2012 2:21 am
barryp
Member Since: 24 Dec 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 138
An excellent write up.
Regards
Barryp2017 Range Rover Sport TDV6 L494 Fuji White
2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 L320 Fuji White Loved but GONE
2010 TRAKKA Motorhome Fiat Ducato GONE (What a dud, don't buy one)
2006 Discovery 3 SE TDV6 Automatic Chawton White/Ebony. Loved but GONE
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Ex Member Range Rover Club NSW
17th Nov 2012 5:20 am
Splitpin
Member Since: 30 Dec 2010
Location: At the toolbox
Posts: 535
Good work.
I replaced the rack ends at the same time as the track rod ends when I did mine, the inner joints had more play in them than the outer ones, it also ment only 1 wheel alignment.
17th Nov 2012 7:17 am
aljo
Member Since: 20 May 2007
Location: west sussex
Posts: 804
Excellent
This has to go in the "wiki" unlike the RRS site Last night I lay in bed looking up at the stars in the sky and I thought to myself, where,s the f**king ceiling!!
17th Nov 2012 9:45 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Excellent 'how to' that needs preserving in the wiki.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
I replaced the rack ends at the same time as the track rod ends when I did mine, the inner joints had more play in them than the outer ones, it also ment only 1 wheel alignment.
I didn't realise this was the case. I've gone and bought the track rods too so will add this part to the thread when I get round to it...it's a little wet outside at the mo
Thanks for the feedback chaps
17th Nov 2012 12:15 pm
lrserviceandrepair Site Sponsor
Member Since: 20 Sep 2012
Location: York YO19 6QL
Posts: 136
Give yourself a pat on the back - you've just saved yourself approx £400
17th Nov 2012 12:47 pm
hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1481
Excellent write-up
Excuse my ignorance but i cannot see why you need to remove the drive shaft
Andi
17th Nov 2012 4:56 pm
ANTONY JUDSON
Member Since: 14 Sep 2012
Location: TAYNUILT ARGYLL
Posts: 32
PLEASE PLEASE NO Credit to me for this post It belongs to Kav1187, its a good post and it aint mine coz im still learning how to use a laptop. :
17th Nov 2012 5:09 pm
kav1187
Member Since: 30 Sep 2012
Location: SX
Posts: 149
Antony! You stole my post!
I sent you a Private Message
Andi - The driveshaft gets in the way when you try to get the ball joint out. As it happens I didn't actually remove the driveshaft when I did the job myself. I cut the old ball joint thread with an angle grinder and somehow maneuvered the new wishbone until the thread went into the hole. Although this worked, it did mean fiddling with the suspension strut in order to get the wishbone into position. This was quite tricky to do, especially when working alone.
For the sake of doing a guide that anyone can follow, it made better sense to advise the removal of the driveshaft. When I do the other side I'll be removing the driveshaft.
Here's the pic I missed out. If you're going to cut it out then you'll need to hammer it out of the hub carrier first and cut above the carrier and not below as my picture shows.
Click image to enlarge
Hope this makes sense.
17th Nov 2012 5:35 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26683
Added to the Wiki too
11th Dec 2012 11:48 pm
Curly
Member Since: 30 Sep 2011
Location: suffolk
Posts: 687
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