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How to fit new wishbone (lower arm) and track rod end
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kav1187
 


Member Since: 30 Sep 2012
Location: SX
Posts: 149

United Kingdom 
How to fit new wishbone (lower arm) and track rod end

Hi Guys,

Here's how I changed my front wishbones (lower arms) and track rod ends. Pics are also available in my gallery on the RRS site.

Tools:

Jack
Axle Stand
Locking wheel nut key

5mm allen key
10mm long socket or with extender
15mm spanner
18mm socket or spanner
21mm socket
21mm spanner
24mm spanner x2
32mm Socket
hammer
Torque Wrench
Wire Brush
Thin flat bladed screwdriver

Consumables
Copper Grease
WD40

Torque Settings:
Track rod end ball joint nut - 70nm
Track rod end locking nuts - 53nm
Shock absorber and spring assembly to lower arm bolt - 300nm
Lower arm ball joint retaining nut - 115nm
Lower arm bolts - 275nm
Hub Nut - 230nm
Wheel bolts - 140nm

Torque settings taken from this page:
http://www.rrsport.co.uk/gallery/albums/us...ension.jpg


Time: 2 - 3 hours per side

Prep:
Lower vehicle to access height
Lock vehicle in access height
Apply Electronic Park Brake (EPB)


Step 1
Using a thin, flat bladed screwdriver, carefully prise the centre cap out.

Click image to enlarge


Step 2
Using the 32mm socket, loosen the hub nut but do not remove

Click image to enlarge


Step 3
Loosen but do not remove the wheel nuts

Click image to enlarge


Step 4
Lower vehicle to access height and lock. Apply EPB then steer the wheels full lock towards the side you will be working on.

Click image to enlarge


Step 5
jack the vehicle up remembering to use axle stands to support the weight. Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel

Step 6
Locate the track rod end and spray the nuts with WD40. Use a wire brush to remove rust, especially on the nut located on the track rod itself.

Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge


Step 7
Using two 24mm spanners, undo the nut on the track rod.

Click image to enlarge


Step 8
Using an 18mm spanner, undo and remove the nut on the hub carrier. If the thread spins whilst you are trying to undo the nut, you may need to use a 5mm allen key to counter turn.

Click image to enlarge


Step 9
Undo the nut on the track rod and mark the point on the thread where the track rod end stops. This will ensure you put your replacement track rod end in the same position as the old one, so your tracking should be almost the same as before.

Step 10
Using a 15mm spanner, turn the track rod enough for it to loosen the thread within the track rod end.

Click image to enlarge


Step 11
Use a splitter tool to separate the track rod end from the hub carrier.
Click image to enlarge


do not break the tool Sad

Click image to enlarge


Step 12
My replacement track rod end was slightly different to the one fitted to my RRS. Not sure if it's a discovery one or a newer item. I just have to take this into account when re-fitting onto the track rod.
Click image to enlarge


Screw the new track rod end onto the track rod, upto the point you marked in step 9 (take into account any difference in length between old and new track rod ends)

Tighten the nut on the track rod.

Click image to enlarge


Wishbone time....

Step 13
Leave the track rod separated from the hub carrier for the time being.

Remove the rear-most undertray by undoing the six 10mm bolts.

Click image to enlarge


Step 14
Spray WD40 on all the nuts and bolts connected to the wishbone. There are 3 bolts/nuts connected to the wishbone, as well as a ball joint with a nut on the underside of the hub carrier.

Here's the end result of what you're working with...

Click image to enlarge


Click image to enlarge


Step 15
After the WD40 has had a chance to soak in, mark out the position of the eccentric cams at both the bolt end and the nut end. I did this by spraying primer around it. This will ensure that the tracking will be fairly similar once the new wishbone is in place.

Click image to enlarge


Step 16
Loosen and remove the four 24mm nuts around the wishbone.

Front
Click image to enlarge


Rear
Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge


Suspension Strut
Click image to enlarge


Front of suspension strut (21mm)
Click image to enlarge


Lower Ball Joint
Click image to enlarge


Step 17
Remove the nut from the driveshaft (loosened in step 2) and push the driveshaft towards the engine so it pops out of the hub carrier. You may need to give it some gentle persuasion with a hammer and centre punch.

Step 18
Remove the suspension strut bolt.

Click image to enlarge


Step 19
Remove the lower ball joint from the hub carrier. You may need to use the splitter again - mine just hammered out.

Click image to enlarge


Step 20
You should be left with this.

Click image to enlarge


If your bolts are siezed inside the bush like my rear one was then having the wishbone in this position will give you a good angle to work with.

The siezed rear bolt
Click image to enlarge


I kept turning the bolt and fighting against the springiness of the bush, regularly spraying WD40. The bush eventually gave way and I was able to pull the bolt out without having to cut it.
Click image to enlarge


The bolt had rusted and siezed to the sleeve of the bush:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge


Step 21
Pull all the bolts out and remove the wishbone.

Step 22
Gather new bolt/eccentric cam/washer/nut

Click image to enlarge


Apply anti-sieze copper grease to the bolts to prevent them siezing inside the bushes.

Click image to enlarge


I fitted my new wishbone in this order:

1) Lower ball joint to hub carrier (and line up driveshaft at this point)
2) Suspension strut
3) Rear Bolt
4) Front Bolt

Once the bolts are through, make sure that the eccentric cams fit in exactly the same place as before. This is where the markings made in step 15 are useful.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge


Step 23
Hand tighten the four 24mm nuts. I am told that they should be torque tightened once the car is sitting on the ground at normal ride height.

Step 24
Connect the track rod end to the hub carrier. Torque tighten the 18mm nut.

Click image to enlarge


step 25
Fit driveshaft nut but do not torque tighten just yet.

Step 26
Fit wheel and hand tighten the wheel nuts. Remove the axle stands and lower the car.

Step 27
Tighten hub nut to 230nm (used to be 275 but LR reduced it to 230 to put less stress on the bearings).

Click image to enlarge


Step 28
Jack up the car. Remove the wheel and make a notch in the hub nut using a flat chisel.

Step 29
Fit wheel and nuts, lower the car and torque tighten wheel nuts to 140nm


Step 30
Fit centre cap

Click image to enlarge


Step 31
Take the locking wheel nut out of the wheel Whistle Rolling with laughter

Step 32
Raise the suspension to normal ride height and torque tighten the four 24mm nuts.

Step 33
Attach the rear undertray (six 10mm bolts)

Step 34
Get the tracking done.

Give yourself a pat on the back - you've just saved yourself approx £400 Thumbs Up
  
Post #100470017th Nov 2012 2:21 am
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barryp
 


Member Since: 24 Dec 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 138

Australia 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Chawton WhiteDiscovery 3

An excellent write up.
Regards
Barryp
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Post #100470717th Nov 2012 5:20 am
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Splitpin
 


Member Since: 30 Dec 2010
Location: At the toolbox
Posts: 535


Good work.

I replaced the rack ends at the same time as the track rod ends when I did mine, the inner joints had more play in them than the outer ones, it also ment only 1 wheel alignment.
  
Post #100471317th Nov 2012 7:17 am
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aljo
 


Member Since: 20 May 2007
Location: west sussex
Posts: 804

England 

Excellent Thumbs Up

This has to go in the "wiki" unlike the RRS site Whistle
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Post #100476617th Nov 2012 9:45 am
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Robbie
 


Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
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Excellent 'how to' that needs preserving in the wiki.

Thumbs Up
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Post #100483017th Nov 2012 12:08 pm
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kav1187
 


Member Since: 30 Sep 2012
Location: SX
Posts: 149

United Kingdom 

Splitpin wrote:
Good work.

I replaced the rack ends at the same time as the track rod ends when I did mine, the inner joints had more play in them than the outer ones, it also ment only 1 wheel alignment.


I didn't realise this was the case. I've gone and bought the track rods too so will add this part to the thread when I get round to it...it's a little wet outside at the mo Sad

Thanks for the feedback chaps Very Happy Thumbs Up
  
Post #100483717th Nov 2012 12:15 pm
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lrserviceandrepair
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You have been very lucky to get all the bolts out without having to use any cutting tools.
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Post #100483817th Nov 2012 12:19 pm
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Disco_Mikey
 


Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713

Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

What he says ^^^

9inch grinder normally gets put into action when doing these arms Whistle
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Post #100484217th Nov 2012 12:25 pm
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kav1187
 


Member Since: 30 Sep 2012
Location: SX
Posts: 149

United Kingdom 

I had a stihl petrol cutter at the ready Laughing
  
Post #100484517th Nov 2012 12:28 pm
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ANTONY JUDSON
 


Member Since: 14 Sep 2012
Location: TAYNUILT ARGYLL
Posts: 32

Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3
Re: How to fit new wishbone (lower arm) and track rod end

Completely and totally unnecessary quote removed


Give yourself a pat on the back - you've just saved yourself approx £400 Thumbs Up
  
Post #100485617th Nov 2012 12:47 pm
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hugeviking
 


Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
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Excellent write-up Bow down

Excuse my ignorance but i cannot see why you need to remove the drive shaft Embarassed Embarassed

Andi
  
Post #100492017th Nov 2012 4:56 pm
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ANTONY JUDSON
 


Member Since: 14 Sep 2012
Location: TAYNUILT ARGYLL
Posts: 32

Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3

PLEASE PLEASE Bow down Bow down NO Credit to me for this post Big Cry It belongs to Kav1187, its a good post and it aint mine coz im still learning how to use a laptop. : Embarassed Embarassed Embarassed Rolling with laughter
  
Post #100492617th Nov 2012 5:09 pm
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kav1187
 


Member Since: 30 Sep 2012
Location: SX
Posts: 149

United Kingdom 

Antony! You stole my post! Evil or Very Mad Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter

I sent you a Private Message Thumbs Up

Andi - The driveshaft gets in the way when you try to get the ball joint out. As it happens I didn't actually remove the driveshaft when I did the job myself. I cut the old ball joint thread with an angle grinder and somehow maneuvered the new wishbone until the thread went into the hole. Although this worked, it did mean fiddling with the suspension strut in order to get the wishbone into position. This was quite tricky to do, especially when working alone.

For the sake of doing a guide that anyone can follow, it made better sense to advise the removal of the driveshaft. When I do the other side I'll be removing the driveshaft.

Here's the pic I missed out. If you're going to cut it out then you'll need to hammer it out of the hub carrier first and cut above the carrier and not below as my picture shows.

Click image to enlarge


Hope this makes sense. Thumbs Up
  
Post #100493617th Nov 2012 5:35 pm
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Gareth
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Added to the Wiki too Thumbs Up
  
Post #101768711th Dec 2012 11:48 pm
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Curly
 


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Give this man a some beer tokens Very Happy
  
Post #101940515th Dec 2012 11:41 am
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