Member Since: 12 Jul 2017
Location: Somerset
Posts: 21
I had the same problem with my new ( to me) discovery 4 I have followed all the photos and info and I am so thankfull for all of you posting.
So satisfing doing a job yourself and saving time at the garage and of course money.
Thanks to all above.
13th Jul 2017 12:38 pm
notgoingoffroad
Member Since: 02 Apr 2011
Location: Scotland
Posts: 46
C&D Pillar
Hi looking for some help. I have been getting a lot of water coming into the passenger side foot well & having looked at this post went to check the pollen filter & front sunroof drainage pipes both of which were ok after I tested with the hose. What I did discover was that the leak was coming from the pillar just behind the 2nd row of seats of the left (someone mentioned C or D pillar but not sure what they are called. Water only appears to be coming in there but does the fixed middle & rear sunroofs have their own drainage pipes or when I removed the panel is the one I could see the rear drainage from the front sunroof?
Any guidance would be appreciated.
24th Jul 2017 8:31 pm
Charliecloud
Member Since: 31 Jul 2014
Location: Tonbridge
Posts: 980
That would be the C post. Only the opening sunroof has any drains, so it the rear front roof drain. They are same type as fronts. May have perished or pipe come adrift.
Given the age of your car, unless the fronts have been done by a previous owner at best you are on borrowed time before they perish.
24th Jul 2017 8:47 pm
notgoingoffroad
Member Since: 02 Apr 2011
Location: Scotland
Posts: 46
C pillar
Thanks for the response. Agree given age of car its a matter of time. As I never open the sunroof & don't want water inside the car could I just use black sealant on the sunroof ?
24th Jul 2017 9:27 pm
DansDisco
Member Since: 12 Oct 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 19
Hi all,
Thanks for all the wealth of knowledge here, just getting through it has taken a while but very worthwhile.
So, here's my issue.
I've had water coming in from passenger side, have put sealant there for now and whilst it's not properly fixed it will do for now.
My biggest issues is water in the drivers footwell. I followed Gareth's post (very helpful) re drainage pipe, disconnected them, poured water directly into them and it is not blocked. Water ran near front wheel where it should. I then connected the pipe back up and poured water in the sunroof section you mentioned and water misses the pipe completely and comes directly in through the roof. Seems as though there should be a plug or sealant in the sunroof to stop water being able to escape so freely.
Having done all this the drivers footwell seems to still be very wet, I'm not sure it is coming from the sunroof now but don't know where it can be coming from. It feels as though it is from under the carpet. Would the best thing be to pull the drivers carpet back and check out?
Is this nasty to do, always worried when I pull things apart that they won't go back properly.
Any help is welcomed, pictures always a bonus too.
Cheers
Dan
7th Sep 2017 12:36 am
ksuttle
Member Since: 04 Oct 2010
Location: California
Posts: 2
Central Junction Box (CJB) reinstallation
Any tips on getting the rear connecters seated properly when reinstalling the CJB? I just spent a few hours trying to get them connected. My neighbors will probably be hiding their children as I'm sure they learned a few new words today.
I just can't seem to get the rear connectors to seat properly.
Member Since: 14 Aug 2014
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 35
Iced up Sunroof drains
After reading the 15 pages of great advice and experience, I decided to tackle my intermittent leaky roof.
As I have the D4, fortunately the passenger side has the dummy air intake grille, so both front pipe outlets are easily accessible
Dealer looked to have been there before me as there was no X shaped valve on either side, and the foam insert was trimmed/butchered.
Armed with a small bore silicone rubber tube fed into a sports drink bottle with one of those 'cat's bum' type valves, I proceeded to blast some water down the drain pipes.
Nothing came out of the drivers side, so I tried the others, including the rear drains which both drained great. I then tackled the blocked Drivers one from the outlet end, and to my surprise, loads of Ice came out ! after which I blasted hot water from the top for a few time and all clear !
It then dawned on me that the intermittent problem only happened in winter after a cold night that turned into a rainy morning, when I started the car for the first time. A few inches of the exit pipe must freeze up and even if the top end is liquid, it takes time for the lower end to thaw. I hear the water sloshing around and get drips down the A pillars/Map reading lights, after a while it stops, even if it carries on raining.
What happened to LR testing in cold climates ? or maybe its just the British Freeze/Thaw cycle in winter.
Happy I now know
8th Jan 2018 1:31 pm
Danny4383
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Harrogate
Posts: 222
The front edge of my headlining keeps getting wet when it rains so I had a really quick go at unblocking the drains last night in the dark - not the best idea I’ve ever had!
Didn’t manage to rod/blow through the tubes from the top but I did attack the outlets in the wings.
I left the foam piece out from inside the offside wing as it was absolutely soaking.......does it really need to go back in?!
I’ll be taking it all apart again in the daylight so not an issue, just wondered what it’s purpose is and if it really needs to be put back.
24th Nov 2018 8:34 am
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Danny I just had to do the same thing, first issue with sunroofs in 4 years, same as you the foam was soaked and could be wrung out, I reckon its for wind noise or to stop the engine air intake hose vibrating.
I did put it back in but can see it being a potential rot spot in the future.
On mine the blockage was tiny tiny bits of leaves in the sunroof tray drain hole as the drain hole is way to small.
On the inner wing mine didnt have the star shaped widget just a plain round hose fitting.
3rd Dec 2018 4:01 pm
DIY Ace
Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 875
Having originally thought that the musty smell in my newly acquired D3 was simply down to a previous owners poor hygiene, I now know that it is in fact because the entire capret system is soaked through and saturated.
Suspecting the same blocked lines as others experience I opened up the pedal box area and air intake in the wing. I found a rotten valve to the drain tube that was so poorly modified it had split and fallen mostly back into the footwell. Hence no surprise that my car looks much like a swimming pool right now.
A simple fix for me was to push the valve all the way back in to the car, remove it and put it in via the outside first. On construction these valves are fitted from inside the car and they have a rubber shoulder to hold it against the bulkhead, stopping it falling out into the wing. However a previous idiot owner has clearly chopped back the star-shaped end so far that it now fell back into the footwell. There was no rubber left on the outside to hold it in place. Hence water everywhere.
I took the valve out, cleaned it and inserted it back into its hole from the outside instead - the rubber shoulder now stopping it falling back into the car. Far better. From inside the footwell i reattached the drain tube and encouraged it to stay put using a jubilee clip. (Don’t over-tighten, it just needs to be tight enough to hold it with the downpipe.)
I then rodded it with 2.4mm strimmer hose that I had in the shed. The result of the realignment of the rubber valve means that there is now an almost straight run from the roof to the wing, the water flows beautifully like a tap with nothing falling inside the car. I emptied a 2l bottle down in less than a minute.
I’ll stick the periodic rodding of the drain line on my schedule, every three months I reckon, as it takes less than a minute to do so. The straighter run of the line means you can pass a rodding line down the entirety and pull out all the crud.
Problem solved. Ish. I need to do the same to the passenger side next Sunday which I’m dreading, I understand that getting the fuse board out is a pig of a job.
Video of Job and photos below...
Photo showing the valve now inserted from the outside, the rubber flange holding it and making it impossible to fall back into the car.
Now a clear straight run down the tube and out the wing. Easy to rod and free-flowing enough to help it flush out the crud. You can put the rodding line in one end, pull it all the way through and bring out the crud with it.
Reaching through to tighten the clip.
Showing the small jubilee clip holding it in place inside. Don’t over-tighten, but the line is hard enough to get a good grip. Use a hex-headed jubilee clip as it makes the tightening much easier. First attempt was with a cross head screw type and it was impossible to get enough purchase in such an awkward spot.
2022 BMW i4 M50. Bought Oct 2022. 10,200 miles and counting...
2014 BMW 435d convertible. Bought July 2021. 58,000 miles and counting...
2005 Discovery 3 HSE Auto. Bought Feb 2019. 169,000 miles and counting...
2009 Freelander 2 XS Manual. Bought Sep 2013. SOLD Aug 2021 (already regretted!)
Member Since: 01 Apr 2013
Location: London
Posts: 59
I had a passenger footwell leak for a while and finally decided to go for the CJB removal and hose replacement. Incredibly fiddly for the 2 rear connectors but managed it eventually. Thanks for the post.
19th Mar 2019 10:20 am
Paddyy
Member Since: 27 Aug 2011
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 1
Side Vent
Top Tip I picked up for side vent removal - use an old credit card to release the bottom catches!
3rd Apr 2019 10:52 am
DIY Ace
Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 875
Good tip. Wish I’d thought of that before I snapped mine. At least I now have an excuse to buy a snazzy D4 lookalike vent...
In the meantime I fixed the other three drain tubes two weekends ago. All three were also leaking into the car. The passenger side front and rear - neither tube went outside at all so every drop was draining into the car. The CJB was easy to remove but a bit of a faff to get back. Nowhere near as complex as I had expected though, you just need small hands and to attach zip ties to the rear clip handles. Makes it much easier to pull the levers down once the clips are resting in place.2022 BMW i4 M50. Bought Oct 2022. 10,200 miles and counting...
2014 BMW 435d convertible. Bought July 2021. 58,000 miles and counting...
2005 Discovery 3 HSE Auto. Bought Feb 2019. 169,000 miles and counting...
2009 Freelander 2 XS Manual. Bought Sep 2013. SOLD Aug 2021 (already regretted!)
Cheers for this thread. Fingers crossed I've sorted the drain as it was blocked by both crud and the foam outlet at the air intake.
Now onto the next thing thats just gone wrong this evening, the NS rearside door lock actuator seems to have packed up.
Cheers n Gone Nick MY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
21st Jun 2019 7:48 pm
A.J.M
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2815
Got the passenger side one replaced today with the better design drain end.
Proper pain but a mate helped get the cjb out the way and he made short work of it.
However, it’s now throwing up a parking aid function led fault. The sensors light won’t go out regardless if I press the button or not.
Is there a cable or connector for the sensors in the cjb and or surrounding wires to it that I could I upset to bring it on?
Sensors still work, it’s just that orange light stays on. Which it didn’t before we started the work.
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