Member Since: 09 Nov 2015
Location: WirralCh479sf
Posts: 9
Front exhaust down pipe, removal of stuck stud nuts
Any tips for removing nuts from front down pipe I am aware I have to remove front prop but unsure which way to go to loosen and remove frozen nuts for exhaust flange , heat has been suggested any other idias 😎
5th Nov 2018 10:00 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
Concentrated heat is the tried and tested method that works! Anything less risks the studs snapping and then you're in the dudu big time!!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
5th Nov 2018 10:38 pm
Scissors
Member Since: 09 Nov 2015
Location: WirralCh479sf
Posts: 9
As I suspected would a cherry red be appropriate or hotter ?
6th Nov 2018 1:32 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
Cherry is good, or maybe raspberry, but certainly not beyond strawberry as it bound to leave a bad taste in your mouth yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
6th Nov 2018 2:14 am
Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1787
I use these if the nuts are rounded, worked every time so far, soak nuts in penetrating oil beforehand
6th Nov 2018 11:25 am
Scissors
Member Since: 09 Nov 2015
Location: WirralCh479sf
Posts: 9
I bought those sockets they are really good but was afraid of snapping studs so ll use heat first then use sockets as nuts are a bit rounded 😎
6th Nov 2018 3:43 pm
Scissors
Member Since: 09 Nov 2015
Location: WirralCh479sf
Posts: 9
front prop sorted will remove nuts on sunday heat first or penatrating oil
or both 😎 ?
15th Nov 2018 3:15 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
You can skip the penetrating oil as it will be burned away with the heat. If you're using Oxy Acetylene try to heat the nut only rather than the stud if you can. Be careful, and have the tools ready for when you remove the heat. Try and use a hex socket only, as a spline will likely round the nut. Do them one at a time and don't force them too much.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
15th Nov 2018 8:14 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
I had the same problem. One of mine snapped off and the studs wound out on the other 2. I was lucky that once the tension was off the broken stud wound out easy. I don’t know what the nuts are made from nowadays but they seem to weld themselves in place. I had hells own job with the turbo side of the crossover pipe. Smaller nuts but same issue. 6 sided sockets are an invaluable tool. As are a load of extension bars. Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
15th Nov 2018 8:47 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8071
I didn't remove prop shaft, just long socket and proper penetrating oil, access through front wheel arch for two of them with a flexi head ratchet combination spanner.
I wouldn't want to be using oxy acetylene under there.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
15th Nov 2018 9:04 pm
indy4x
Member Since: 24 Nov 2017
Location: Pontypool
Posts: 193
Replaced my downpipe a few weeks ago, no need to remove front propagate.
Didn't have to use heat, plenty of penetrating fluid and I cracked off the top but with a spanner then used a socket on the other 2.
Binned the nuts that came off and fitted new ones
Flank drive sockets and spanner helped,less chance of rounding off the nuts
15th Nov 2018 10:09 pm
Scissors
Member Since: 09 Nov 2015
Location: WirralCh479sf
Posts: 9
I get the first two nuts but how do l get at the third from the side without removing the prop 😎
16th Nov 2018 1:01 am
Scissors
Member Since: 09 Nov 2015
Location: WirralCh479sf
Posts: 9
PROFSR G wrote:
You can skip the penetrating oil as it will be burned away with the heat. If you're using Oxy Acetylene try to heat the nut only rather than the stud if you can. Be careful, and have the tools ready for when you remove the heat. Try and use a hex socket only, as a spline will likely round the nut. Do them one at a time and don't force them too much.
I'm going to use map gas as it has become a popular choice with exhaust specialists plenty hot but accessible to people like myself plus a fire extinguisher and heavy duty leather gloves 😎
16th Nov 2018 1:07 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4626
Yeah I think that's a reasonable choice in your situation. Just remember Mapp gas can reach almost the same temp as Acetylene 3000 degC so be careful! Clean away anything that might ignite, and make sure you apply heat to the required stud ONLY.
It might be a good idea to try a couple of dummy runs with an UNLIT torch! This will help you reduce the possibility of making unexpected contact with something that might be in your path, when either applying or withdrawing the lit torch!
Alternatively, you might consider it safer to ignite it at the point of application, especially if it has a igniter in the handle. You'll have to judge that for yourself. Good luck!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
16th Nov 2018 1:43 am
indy4x
Member Since: 24 Nov 2017
Location: Pontypool
Posts: 193
I got to them with a wobble drive and lots of extension bars
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I use these if the nuts are rounded, worked every time so far, soak nuts in penetrating oil beforehand
