Member Since: 01 Apr 2013
Location: Bavaria
Posts: 83
Hi Stuart,
I am using the second type of fuseholder (midi) for my T-Max fitted with a 50A fuse:
Regards,
OlafDisco4 V6 SC HSE (MY2014)
24th Oct 2017 1:40 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
hi
many thks for the reply
seems they are the most common one to use, it was just an idea after seeing the trip type fuse but maybe will just get the same type as you’ve also used
think i can easily buy some spare fuses as well
noticed the instructions aren’t very clear ref the T max , will get some red corrugated split sleeving for the cables , see i’ve also got to get another smaller fuse for the unit
see there is a small link wire in the kit
may i ask how did u get on with crimping the larger 16mm connections plse , did u just use a vice or the correct crimp tool please , think adding some solder to the connector wouldn’t hurt
thks again
24th Oct 2017 1:53 pm
Avalon
Member Since: 01 Apr 2013
Location: Bavaria
Posts: 83
Hi,
my T-Max compressor has a max. of 45A according to the data sheet, thus my choice of a 50A fuse.
The main fuse for my power-distribution setup is a 100A midi fuse located in the engine bay.
I have a hydraulic hex crimp-tool here so making those 16mm² connections was no problem (https://www.amazon.de/Nordstrand-Hydraulische-Presszange-Quetschzange-Kabelschuhe/dp/B013B90GK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1508851328&sr=8-1&keywords=nordstrand+crimp). If you don't have one yourself, a nearby electrician or a forum member close by might be able to help you out. Due to the high currents involved, I would refrain from using solder.
Regards,
OlafDisco4 V6 SC HSE (MY2014)
24th Oct 2017 2:24 pm
J@mes
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: Bomber County
Posts: 4547
I've got the 12v planet mega strip fuse unit on my T-maxx split charger for the last 3 years, no problems
In the past I've successfully crimped 16mm2 and bigger using mole grips plus a nail between crimp and grips ... And a degree of patience..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
24th Oct 2017 3:51 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Avalon wrote:
Hi,
my T-Max compressor has a max. of 45A according to the data sheet, thus my choice of a 50A fuse.
The main fuse for my power-distribution setup is a 100A midi fuse located in the engine bay.
I have a hydraulic hex crimp-tool here so making those 16mm² connections was no problem (https://www.amazon.de/Nordstrand-Hydraulische-Presszange-Quetschzange-Kabelschuhe/dp/B013B90GK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1508851328&sr=8-1&keywords=nordstrand+crimp). If you don't have one yourself, a nearby electrician or a forum member close by might be able to help you out. Due to the high currents involved, I would refrain from using solder.
Regards,
Olaf
many thks for the info
after i crimp the battery lead connectors may i ask why solder shouldn’t be also put onto the fittings please, sorry for the dim question
thks again
25th Oct 2017 6:10 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Hardware17 wrote:
In the past I've successfully crimped 16mm2 and bigger using mole grips plus a nail between crimp and grips ... And a degree of patience.
Member Since: 01 Apr 2013
Location: Bavaria
Posts: 83
gstuart wrote:
after i crimp the battery lead connectors may i ask why solder shouldn’t be also put onto the fittings please, sorry for the dim question
thks again
Generally solder will give two metal-to-metal transfers for the electrons to travel to. Proper crimped connections will give only one, resulting in less electrical resistance. Higher resistance can not only cause a voltage drop at high currents, the resulting heat buildup can even unsolder your wires in the worst case.
Needles to say, a well soldered connection is probably better than a badly crimped one.Disco4 V6 SC HSE (MY2014)
25th Oct 2017 9:15 pm
Iceman08
Member Since: 22 Sep 2014
Location: Hereford
Posts: 2284
I used these the same as your second link, and only one of them!
Click image to enlarge
25th Oct 2017 10:07 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Avalon wrote:
gstuart wrote:
after i crimp the battery lead connectors may i ask why solder shouldn’t be also put onto the fittings please, sorry for the dim question
thks again
Generally solder will give two metal-to-metal transfers for the electrons to travel to. Proper crimped connections will give only one, resulting in less electrical resistance. Higher resistance can not only cause a voltage drop at high currents, the resulting heat buildup can even unsolder your wires in the worst case.
Needles to say, a well soldered connection is probably better than a badly crimped one.
many thks , have in the past after crimping a terminal to run some solder around the joint and also used some shrink tubing over the wire to protect it , just used solder on terminals to ensure they are sound
am very grateful to ur goodself and learn something new everyday
26th Oct 2017 7:05 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
dam it, have just resevered that in my list of items to buy
oooohhhh goody , something else that’s shiny to buy
26th Oct 2017 7:07 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Iceman08 wrote:
I used these the same as your second link, and only one of them!
Click image to enlarge
many thks, definitely think that’s the item to buy , been trying to read the t max instructions, blimey need a magnifying glass to read it
will have to have another look, as i thought i saw on there 3 x fuses req , one on the green wire , then another fuse in each positive cable ,
70 amp fuse on each positive cable then a 2 amp fuse in the green wire
see the kit comes with a scotch lock type fitting for the 2 amp fuse, won’t bother using that but get a decent one
may i ask where did u pick up ur aux battery earth please , found the grommet by the servo to push the wires though firnthe battery display unit , just got to decide where to install it
thks again
26th Oct 2017 7:14 am
Skynet
Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: Melksham, Wiltshire
Posts: 868
gstuart wrote:
Avalon wrote:
gstuart wrote:
after i crimp the battery lead connectors may i ask why solder shouldn’t be also put onto the fittings please, sorry for the dim question
thks again
Generally solder will give two metal-to-metal transfers for the electrons to travel to. Proper crimped connections will give only one, resulting in less electrical resistance. Higher resistance can not only cause a voltage drop at high currents, the resulting heat buildup can even unsolder your wires in the worst case.
Needles to say, a well soldered connection is probably better than a badly crimped one.
many thks , have in the past after crimping a terminal to run some solder around the joint and also used some shrink tubing over the wire to protect it , just used solder on terminals to ensure they are sound
am very grateful to ur goodself and learn something new everyday
I crimped but using both crimp and solder should work best. Solder only on some connections used to be frowned upon as high current can heat the joint and make the solder connection weak under tension.Dave
D3 2006 HSE, Cairns Blue - gone
D4 2016 SE, White
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