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chocobo
Member Since: 14 Feb 2022
Location: uk
Posts: 35
  
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| General "best practices" advice for a newbie? |
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Hi guys,
The disco is my first automatic, and whilst I thought that made things easier I am left wondering a few things, and wondered if anyone can advise on the best practice for:
1) When stopping/starting in traffic, what do you do? Leave it in D with brake pressed? Put it in N/P? Use the handbrake!? I wondered if just sitting there in drive with brake pressed is actually wearing anything out, or if in fact constantly changing gears to neutral/park would actually be worse for the car over time?
2) Do you leave the e brake on overnight and whenever parked? I know they're notorious for issues but is using it more, or using it less, actually the best thing to do? (I've heard people saying it's not using it that makes it seize and others seem to say they don't use it at all?!) If I leave the car on a level driveway every night is having the e brake on or off the best idea for trying to prevent the seizing issues?
3) Is it true that you should leave a TD engine running for a while after stopping, to maintain the life of the turbo better?
4) Can the car be driven with the suspension in access mode or is it best to always be at the default setting (for road driving)? I only wondered if by not using the air suspension daily (assuming at its lowest its not using it?), it'd prolong it's life?
I'm very much about trying to prolong the life of this thing but don't want to be paranoid/scared to even use it at the same time  , so thanks for any thoughts 
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 15th Feb 2022 5:30 pm |
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chocobo
Member Since: 14 Feb 2022
Location: uk
Posts: 35
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Also another thought, I am going to get the cambelt done for peace of mind, but yeah they're not cheap are they  Spoke to a landrover specialist and they said they change BOTH cambelts whereas some garages claim you don't need to change the back one, anyone have thoughts on this and if that's actually true?
They also mentioned they might have to change the oil pump too but they can't tell if it has one?! until theyve taken it apart... did they mean that or did they mean they can't tell if it needs replacing without looking at it? If some do have an oil pump and some don't is there any way of telling from chassis number or anything like that?
Would you only ever use a specialist/dealer for a cambelt rather than a general garage?
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| 15th Feb 2022 5:34 pm |
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ianm27
Member Since: 02 Jun 2016
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 2154
  
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Couple of your questions will have contentious answers but my 2 penniesworth:
I leave it in D with brake pressed. If it is likely to be a long stop I will put it in P. As far as I know this does not decrease the life of the brakes/brake system as once depressed nothing else moves.
Always engage the e brake at night and when parked. General consensus is if you don't use the e brake it is far more likely to seize.
Modern diesel/turbos don't need a "cooling down" period - unless you have a high performance unit which doesn't apply to a Discovery
The suspension will always change to default road height after a few metres of driving (can't remember now if its after a set distance or when reached a certain speed).
Others will no doubt be along with their comments and preferences (or to tell you I'm talking c  p )
Yes, both belts should be changed.
The D3 was originally fitted with an oil pump that WILL fail. The sooner it is changed for the newer version the better for you. (If the pump does fail it is usually good-bye engine). If you do a search on here you will find alot of threads about this and how to determine if you have the old unit or the new improved unit. However it is difficult to see which one you have without taking parts off/out so your garage is right in saying they won't know until they have taken things apart.
A good independent LR specialist is your best friend here  not necessarily a cambelt specialist. Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
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| 15th Feb 2022 6:08 pm |
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Harry365
Member Since: 25 Aug 2018
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 382
 
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Regarding the e brake, my opinion is like most things it's a "use it or lose it" component... but at the same time don't over use it(?). Just my opinion. Mine gets used a couple of times a week on hills etc but no way I'm using it on the flat.
On hills I use the EPB to take weight. Foot on brake, neutral, EPB on, foot off brake slowly and then select park. When its time to set off, foot on brake, neutral, EPB off, drive. This saves having to yank it out of park.
Do not rely on the automatic release EPB when you set off, this is badly implemented on the D3 vs more modern vehicles. As far as I know this is even Land Rover official advice making me wonder why it is even an option in the first place.
I am almost certain the main reason the EPB has a bad rep is because people don't know how to change the brake shoes properly. Most garages won't appreciate the set up. Bodsys brake bible is your friend.
The air suspension will put you at normal ride height regardless of your setting once you're over a certain speed. I think 25 for high, no idea for low. It's definitely not a bad habit to make full use of the suspension and occasionally let if use its full range of lift and lower.
Everything is there to be used and as you said, don't get anxiety over this stuff. Suspension and EPB will probably cause you issues at some point and thats just the way it is.
The oil pump is 100% something that should be done and if you have the old one, you absolutely should be anxious about it until its changed
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| 15th Feb 2022 6:58 pm |
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riverblanche
Member Since: 31 Aug 2010
Location: retford'ish
Posts: 2226
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Hi,
he is talking C##p 
oh hold on I agree with him one 1,2 & 4 so may be he's not
regarding 4 the suspension is being "Used" all the time you are driving over each bump and corner
3 sort of agree on that as well BUT any turbo likes to be running gently and cool before shutting off
the harder you drive it be gentle and give it time to cool before shutting off (only talking the last mile or two before getting home )
Regarding belts my memory must be going I thought there were 3 belts  either way its the fuel pump belt at the rear of the engine that gets left.
good practice would have had the better pump fitted at the LAST belt change but it is good preventive for the extra cost.
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| 15th Feb 2022 7:06 pm |
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chocobo
Member Since: 14 Feb 2022
Location: uk
Posts: 35
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Wow thanks for the detailed replies, really useful information that I'll have to start acting on right away!
I was quoted £900 for the 2 belts, oil pump changed and tensioners etc.. they said they only use Landrover parts ...Does this price sound about right?
It's a lot of money to me but I guess if it lasts the next 7 years it's not so bad!
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| 15th Feb 2022 9:47 pm |
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nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4244
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Sounds quite a lot but if they actually using genuine parts then not too bad, it is possible to get it done for less at a good indie or by one of the travelling forum members… look up Flack, Bodsy or Joe at Oval autos… your a bit too far away from Disco Mikey to make it worthwhile but if you are ever heading to Dundee
Why not do a search on here for “indie” and your local area? I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
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| 15th Feb 2022 10:28 pm |
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galwaygreen
Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: plymouth
Posts: 6525
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all in the manual
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| 16th Feb 2022 12:04 am |
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chocobo
Member Since: 14 Feb 2022
Location: uk
Posts: 35
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Agreed galwaygreen, but what the manual says might not be what users have found over all these years to be best practice in the real world was my thinking. Especially as LR seem to deny any issues with some of the parts in question
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| 16th Feb 2022 8:37 am |
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M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8225
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Well there seems to be a little controversy here and with experienced D3 owners  first of all standing at traffic lights at night with your foot on the brake will aggravate the guy behind you and can be a source of distorted discs after an enthusiastic drive, although it will not harm the transmission neither will starting off without releasing the hand brake it’s designed to do that, your preference. The biggest killer of the hand brake is poor or none maintenance, handbook recommends every 100 miles when being used off road. I adjust and blow brake dust out every 12months (8k miles) and never had a problem or changed the hand brake shoes in 18 years ownership.
It is possible to lock the suspension in access mode but the ride is unbearable and not practical, the suspension should automatically revert to normal height at 25mph with a warning.
Not necessary with modern oils to deliberately cool the turbo down as it is done naturally, very rarely are you likely to come to an emergency stop and switch the engine off, but don’t make an habit of blipping the accelerator before you switch the engine off, the turbo continues spinning after the engine is switched off this is when the damage is done, same with starting fast tick over for a few seconds to give the oil time to circulate, and easy on the accelerator when first setting off.
There are three belts that are normally changed at the same time along with belt tensioners and pulleys, and oil pump if needed(it may have been upgraded) the full kit or part is available and recommended from site sponsors (with discount) advanced factors. It isn’t an impossible job to DIY if you are handy with spanners, there is plenty of info and a guide just do a search with the facility listed on the title page. Good luck. It can when others can't,
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It goes where others don't.
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| 16th Feb 2022 9:26 am |
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N5Fav
Member Since: 28 Jan 2021
Location: LEICESTER
Posts: 134
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As said above, A good quality modern fully synthetic is less likely to get cooked in the turbo so idling for a few minutes before turning the engine is not so critical as it used to be. But if I've been towing, or just pulled into a service area I still do this.
I tend to use the EPB when in a traffic queue, leaving the gearbox in D, I then just pull away and let it come off automatically.
I generally let my D3 down to Access mode when I park up, it hen rises pretty much as I pull away. I think the only time I've had it in high mode is in the workshop, then its extended mode anyway. 1994 Defender 300tdi 110 commercial
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| 16th Feb 2022 12:59 pm |
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chocobo
Member Since: 14 Feb 2022
Location: uk
Posts: 35
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Hey thanks guys for the extra input, quite reassuring to hear someone have a positive experience with the EPB especially, I guess like with anything you're more likely to read from people with issues than those without as those without are unlikely to come on here and post about it!
I'll just have to try and use everything so it doesn't seize, without over-using, be gentle, keep it maintained as best I can afford (or become handy with spanners!) and a little bit of praying probably won't hurt even if I'm not religious
Still not totally sure what's best in traffic now but agree at night especially you don't want to sit there with brakes pressed! For some reason I'm terrified by the idea of driving off with EPB engaged even if it is indeed intended to work like that, I think I'll always try and use the button (and probably end up breaking that )
PS good idea about putting it down in access mode when parked, assuming it doesn't do that automatically (mine certainly doesn't) it seems like it'd be putting unnecessary strain on it having it raised (well normal height) when not in use?
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| 16th Feb 2022 1:05 pm |
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James W
Member Since: 27 Mar 2008
Location: Riyadh, KSA
Posts: 3079
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One thing you missed that I always did was when parking, put the park brake on first, gear into neutral, take foot of footbrake, let vehicle 'roll' into the park brake, THEN put gearbox in park. Avoids sitting all the weight on the gearbox park pawl rather than the actual park brake itself.
FWIW, I would move gearbox into park at lights for the reasons stated above (blinding to the rear, distortion of hot discs) if more than a few secs. I'd also use the brake rather than let it seize up. Air suspension adjusts itself as stated. D4 XS, gone, much loved, never forgotten
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| 16th Feb 2022 1:33 pm |
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chocobo
Member Since: 14 Feb 2022
Location: uk
Posts: 35
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Thanks James, for some reason I was more scared about letting the epb take the strain, but now you've said this I'll have to start doing it your way for sure.. lots to remember isn't there, feel like I need a co-pilot and checklist to go through just to start/stop
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| 16th Feb 2022 1:36 pm |
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nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4244
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EPB is your handbrake so quite capable of being used in traffic (on and off) and for doing hill starts... very capable of taking the weight of the car if the car is stopped but not designed to stop it if the car is moving (unless you are doing the LRE day and they demonstrate it for the emergency stop using one of their cars !)... I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
Black RRS 3.6TDV8 2008 (gone)
Rusty Green Defender 110 1997 (gone)
Black FL2 HSE 2013 (gone)
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| 16th Feb 2022 3:36 pm |
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