Member Since: 03 Jul 2015
Location: Darkest Wight
Posts: 10
That sounds like a reasonable assumption, perhaps the shoes within the hub are adjusted a tad too tight. If you're tooled up and confident, I would seek out Bodsy's brake bible and have a go at setting them correctly.
The guidance I got from an independent was to tighten them until the hub is noticeably harder to turn round, then back it off one or two clicks so it rotates freely again. I recall the bible or elsewhere said 8, but that seemed a little too loose to me.
Another possibility is that maybe the pads are squealing unusually, but if they've been replaced and bedded in then that shouldn't be happening. Either way I would jack it up and see if you get any noise when you rotate the wheels by hand, then have the wheels off and have a good look at the condition of the discs and pads at least. The pads usually have soft shims behind them to help silence squeal, so if they're not present then maybe that's the cause.
Also, if you do start opening up the calliper, take care with the possibly brittle wear sensor on the right hand rear hub - I felt like it may break easily when I was pulling it out.
Good luck tracking it down, it must be somewhat annoying!
22nd Dec 2015 6:50 pm
gardendisco
Member Since: 05 Jun 2015
Location: Belfast
Posts: 112
linkageless, thanks very much for the info. Myself and a good friend will have to investigate this straight after christmas, I feel I will have to put up with it for a bit longer. I have found Bodseys bible and feel that it will be invaluable and I am very optimistic now, fingers crossed.
As much as I usually enjoy people having a look at the car, when its making a god awful noise its not the same.
Many thanks and I shall report hopefully within the week.
23rd Dec 2015 12:17 pm
snail
Member Since: 05 Feb 2015
Location: Canterbury
Posts: 6
Does anybody know of someone in East Kent (pref Canterbury) who can look at mine - its an intermittant problem ?
Main dealer not an option!
16th Jan 2016 4:05 pm
waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2862
Geoff is your best bet,but is the other side of Tonbridge. Send him a PM, but use a . after the Geoff ie Geoff.Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
16th Jan 2016 4:07 pm
abalerdi
Member Since: 04 Feb 2016
Location: Gipuzkoa
Posts: 1
Hi all
I replaced the faulty EPB module . but I still get the orange light and reversing light does not work. Also the rear parking sensor does not work .
someone has had this problem ??
4th Feb 2016 11:49 am
lesdisco3
Member Since: 17 Feb 2013
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 18
Hi all, I have an issue with my D3 the handbrake works perfectly but on the dash I have an intermittent yellow park light as i accelerate and an occasional split second Red with an audible ding. HDC Failier and Special programs not available when i first start the engine, all the programs are working. Handbrake shoes, disc's and pads are only six months old all round. All lights are working correctly, however I have removed the Radio/cd unit as it was faulty and messing with the sat nav switching it on and off. Replacement unit on order and will be in the car in a week or two. Has anyone got any ideas on what the problem may be ?.
31st Mar 2016 8:54 pm
BHH
Member Since: 19 Jan 2010
Location: Co. Antrim, N. Ireland
Posts: 208
Has anyone had their EPB Module replaced by an External Warranty Company?
8th Apr 2016 2:46 pm
linkageless
Member Since: 03 Jul 2015
Location: Darkest Wight
Posts: 10
abalerdi wrote:
I replaced the faulty EPB module . but I still get the orange light and reversing light does not work. Also the rear parking sensor does not work .
I've had the yellow Park Brake light, for me it was a known problem and little to do with the EPB. In brief, it was the clutch that needed replacement.
The clutch slipping puts the XYZ sensor out of calibration, which somehow makes it come to the conclusion that the EPB is faulty. The gear display being slow, failure to put on the reverse sensor on and the engine revving up and down at idle are also symptoms of the XYZ sensor being out of calibration.
As I remember, to re-calibrate it, you need to start the car on an empty level road, reverse until you see the 'R', then drive in first until you see the '1', then second until '2' and so on until you get to '6', then stop, turn off the ignition, then turn on again. You can do this in low range if you have limited space.
The bad news is that it's probably likely the clutch is worn out and will slip again soon, bringing the calibration problem back. Clutch replacement is an expensive job both for parts and labour, as I've found to my considerable cost.
At least I know it's been done now, all those symptoms have gone after XYZ re-calibration and the clutch bites properly again!
8th Apr 2016 7:46 pm
linkageless
Member Since: 03 Jul 2015
Location: Darkest Wight
Posts: 10
lesdisco3 wrote:
the handbrake works perfectly but on the dash I have an intermittent yellow park light as i accelerate and an occasional split second Red with an audible ding.
I wonder if this may also be the clutch slipping. I too have had the HDC failure which now seems cured, but I've had so much work done at once I can't be sure that was related.
8th Apr 2016 7:51 pm
Adam 1975 H
Member Since: 06 Jun 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 2
EPB - Even worse following a Hunters diagnostic!?
Hi All,
I took my D3 to a Land Rover dealer to diagnose an intermittent EPB problem: its started my making a loud clamping bang, then gradually the squealing started and on three occasions its failed to come off at all. Turning the engine on and off did the trick on these latter three times. Land Rover's diagnostic was that the whole module had failed and needed replacing (a snip at £1,300).
I decided not to go ahead because I cant spare the money right now, but when I picked it up and drove it away I noticed the main brake (not the parking) was significantly softer than before. By that, I mean there was a lot more play before the brakes were engaged. I took it back and they are going to look at it. But my issue is that they are likely to say that the diagnostic had nothing to do with the main brake and that the two are unrelated. But I would bet the car that the effectiveness of the brake is significantly worse then when I dropped it off.
Does anyone know if / why this can of happened?? Your advice would be gratefully received as I am anticipating a stand-off occurring, but I have no evidence to back my case (other than my wife who confirmed the same when I asked her to try it).
P.S. Also, following the "diagnostics" the EPB does not work even intermittently and not only do I have a flashing "P" (which I didn't have before), I also have a permanent "!" light in the middle of the dash, both of which are off-putting to say the least. Is this a normal response to a diagnostic?!
6th Jun 2016 1:42 pm
linkageless
Member Since: 03 Jul 2015
Location: Darkest Wight
Posts: 10
I can't comment about what a purely electronic diagnostic may or may not affect, but I do know that physically the park brakes and the foot brakes are separate. The parking brake actuator module applies shoes inside the hub of the rear wheels, while the foot brake operates the usual callipers against the disk on the hub.
I struggle to understand how a diagnostic would affect the main brakes, but perhaps they have been put into some fail safe mode that alters their behaviour? Otherwise, I wonder if they've had the callipers off and failed to bleed them or something - pure speculation, someone else here is bound to have better intuition on that.
My experience has been that adjusting the shoes within the hubs as soon as possible after the actuator starts screeching solves the problem without killing the actuator. Ideally, you don't use the EPB again until you've fixed it, including holding it 'off' when you pull out the ignition key. (Not easy for me, as I have a steep drive and a manual disco!)
If you do your homework (search for bodsy's brake bible), with a few tools you can adjust this yourself in an hour or so and potentially save a fortune.
As I indicated, I'm no expert on the diagnostics side, but it would seem to me that they've gone in there and told it to consider it permanently failed (if that's even possible), or worked it on and off until it's killed the actuator. As I recall they are £500+ and a bit of a job to get at, plus they'll be wanting to replace your hub/disks & shoes & pads at the same time, so it all stacks up to a good bit of labour and a nice healthy percentage cut on those expensive parts.
If you're not confident yourself, I'd find yourself an independent 4x4 specialist, ask them to strip down the rear hubs to see the condition of the shoes and inner hub surfaces. Poor or complete lack of adjustment is most likely the cause of the situation. They may as well replace the shoes and adjust them while they're in there, but all this will be in vain if the actuator cannot be revived. If they're tooled up to look at the diagnostics, then maybe they'll be able to clear the fault and all could be well. OR they could clear the fault only to see it return as the actuator is knackered.
6th Jun 2016 9:50 pm
Adam 1975 H
Member Since: 06 Jun 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 2
Thank you! Lots of food for thought. Whilst they look at it I am borrowing 2016 Discovery 4 courtesy car so every cloud...
7th Jun 2016 8:17 am
John Andre Ognheim
Member Since: 29 Oct 2013
Location: Bergen
Posts: 110
EPB C1A55 permanent, ignition on missing
Hi
Try posting here,
I have this amber light, and Parking brake failure displayed.
Permanent failure, ignition on signal missing.
Cant delete with Nanocom.
EPB works normally.
Have +12 volt supply, Ign On & Key in signal all the way back to the EPB connector.
Checked all the wirings.
Have also tried to connect a brand new, unused EPB module, same fault readings.
Had the same fault earlier this year, and found that one of the 5 amp fuses, was blown, changed it, fault gone for a few months, but are now permanent.
If i disconnect the EPB connector, and turn ign on, all kinds of faults shows up, So from that, i assume the canbus are working as well.
Didnt past the MOT today, so I`m kind a lost here
cheersD3, MY06
28th Dec 2016 12:48 pm
Cornbeef
Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Manchester
Posts: 22
Assistance required
I am asking if one of you guys out there who has access to an IID tool and are near to south Manchester would be able to read the fault codes on my 09my TDV 6.
I have just had my Epb stripped down and re latched by Flack along with new brake shoes and full adjustment of the shoes.
Flack got it all working and it was tested before I left. I got home and applied the EPB no problem. As I released it it seemed to go into meltdown and the fault message came up and the red light flashes. It released okay but won't now engage
So I need to see what the code is and let Flack know so we can try to fix it.
If there is anyone able to assist I would be extremely grateful.
Thank you.
14th Jun 2017 7:14 pm
KS2017
Member Since: 01 Jul 2017
Location: Essex
Posts: 7
linkageless wrote:
I've had the yellow Park Brake light, for me it was a known problem and little to do with the EPB. In brief, it was the clutch that needed replacement.
The clutch slipping puts the XYZ sensor out of calibration, which somehow makes it come to the conclusion that the EPB is faulty. The gear display being slow, failure to put on the reverse sensor on and the engine revving up and down at idle are also symptoms of the XYZ sensor being out of calibration.
As I remember, to re-calibrate it, you need to start the car on an empty level road, reverse until you see the 'R', then drive in first until you see the '1', then second until '2' and so on until you get to '6', then stop, turn off the ignition, then turn on again. You can do this in low range if you have limited space.
The bad news is that it's probably likely the clutch is worn out and will slip again soon, bringing the calibration problem back. Clutch replacement is an expensive job both for parts and labour, as I've found to my considerable cost. :
This may be the answer to a problem we have on our D3 for a while now. Probably should start saving for a new clutch.
Can any one recommend a non-dealer worktop for repairs in Essex, preferable around the Basildon/Chelmsford area?
We had a really good guy in Billericay who would charge not a lot for labour as it was his second income but he's move to Suffolk now so need a new guy to go to for repairs.
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