Member Since: 23 Dec 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 366
Heating Issues
Might just be me, but even at 28deg on the thermometer this morning, the heating system doesn't seem be chucking out the same amount of heat as it was prior to me having it booked in for replacing the Battery Monitoring System.
I may add that is is on non-AC mode and the engine temp gauge is normal (ie, half way between piping hot and stone cold).
Any ideas? Anyone else noticed this? Shouldn't really matter that its colder outside I would imagine.If in doot, flat oot!!
14th Jan 2013 10:45 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
It could be that the HEVAC actuators have lost their calibration and are not moving enough to give you full hot air. I'm not sure how you reset them as a DIY job on a D4 though (couple of button presses on a D3).
The other thought is that it is quite cold. Have you checked that your FBH is working as it should?
(NB that the temp gauge displayed to the driver is weighted to the middle. It will show a normal temp when quite cool to quite hot. LR does not want to worry drivers.)Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 23 Dec 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 366
Robbie, this was after 30 mins of FBH and then 20 mins driving on road, so the water would have been steaming hot!
Not sure how the actuators could have become stuck as it was fine last week. Odd one.If in doot, flat oot!!
14th Jan 2013 11:14 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Well if it is all nicely hot then the actuators have probably lost their calibration. Pretty unlikely for them to be stuck given the age of the vehicle. The HEVAC self-test and calibration is a 2 minute job on a D3 but my D4 experience is pretty basic I am afraid.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 04 Nov 2016
Location: London
Posts: 21
How is this HEVAC test run? With the GAP tool?
Having a similar problem with the car not really picking up heat (FBH pre-heat and then school run 40 mins). Could there be a blocked valve?
13th Jan 2017 10:05 am
richsdv6
Member Since: 15 May 2015
Location: Berks
Posts: 17
I had this for 2 years in my 14 plate with intermittent periods of going cold on a long journey in winter.
Harwoods have just sorted it replacing the internal temp sensor - it now works brilliantly Rich
Scotia Grey with Ebony
D4 HSE Lux 2014
It could be that the HEVAC actuators have lost their calibration and are not moving enough to give you full hot air. I'm not sure how you reset them as a DIY job on a D4 though (couple of button presses on a D3).
The other thought is that it is quite cold. Have you checked that your FBH is working as it should?
(NB that the temp gauge displayed to the driver is weighted to the middle. It will show a normal temp when quite cool to quite hot. LR does not want to worry drivers.)
Robbie on the D3 what are the "couple of button presses please " ? Mine is the same The happiest of people don't necessarily have the best of everything;
They just make the best of everything they have.
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