Member Since: 28 Jul 2018
Location: None
Posts: 179
On the self is 18months from new with 2 charge cycles in-between with it on the car after 2 years use the battery should still be good for a month to 6-7 weeks depending on the drain from the alarm.
Clive
9th Sep 2018 7:59 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13611
Hi Clive
Many thks and good to get some sort of base line how long a battery should last
The main battery is the exide EA1000 , after now sorting out the parasitic battery drain wish to see before I go into another winter season I’m not left with a flat battery again
Alas if the battery doesn’t stay charged for a min of 2 x weeks I will more than likely buy a yuasa 019 from Halfords , so that if there’s problems is easier to return than having to pay for its return via courier
I have the T max dual battery system, if the main battery goes flat it doesn’t allow me to bring the leisure battery in , will link via the controller but doesn’t make the slightest bit of difference , maybe I need to recharge the leisure battery up separately
Thks again
9th Sep 2018 8:20 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
Mine is always hooked upto a ctek as it tends not to be used.
Manufactures try to design them to last a month.
I wouldn't waste money on a new battery at the moment.
You have all the cables to hook it upto ctek. What I do on my cars when not using daily.
9th Sep 2018 8:43 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13611
Cheers pete
Gives me an indication what everyone else does
Indeed won’t buy another battery yet , will just check each day what the readings are in order to give me an indication of how long it’s lasts
Also wondering if by charging it through the 12 s socket if the aux battery also gets charged , if not will lift it out , put into my shed and give it a slow charge via the ctek
Is it around 12.5 Vdc minimum voltage that is req for the main battery to have for starting plse
Thks as always for the great info, all these little details really help
9th Sep 2018 8:56 pm
ANother
Member Since: 28 Jul 2018
Location: None
Posts: 179
Hi Gary
The discharge rate from the leisure battery is a lot lower than the vehicle battery so probably wouldn't jump it even if fully charged. If your main battery still has 12.4v after a couple of weeks it should be ok. But the winter is always harder on the battery. My dads old skool pre winter test was to fully charge the battery then stick in the freezer for a couple of hours and then test it, mum wasn't so impressed by the idea though. We used to check them by doing a drop test drawing the cranking amps off the battery for 30s and then seeing what the volts read, anything under 12v were past their best.
Clive
9th Sep 2018 9:06 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13611
Hi Clive
ref putting a battery in a freezer , indeed bet ur mum wasnt pleased, good test though
I did do a crank test , however that wasn’t with a fully charged battery , will wait until the main battery gets to around 12.4 v so will then know how many days it’s lasted, then recharge it and do another crank test
For the aux battery wish to do what other members have done and make up an electrical boot panel so can run things just off the aux battery
Thks and most appreciated
9th Sep 2018 9:21 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13611
This is what I done ref my split charge
Had some left over conduit so put it over the abs pipes as they were near the battery
9th Sep 2018 9:26 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10360
You have measured the current drain, and its now within spec.
Just ask yourself you long you want it to last without a charge? 2 weeks ? And see if that is ok.
It's not good to leave the batteries to drain down over 2 or more weeks (fine to do for a test) but much better to have it hooked upto CTEK now you have all the setup.
Your battery monitor says 100% which I think is a good thing and its around 13v which is certainly good.
If you are putting in a rear panel for the aux battery, you could somehow connect aux battery+ to pin 2 of the towbar socket. (and maybe have a different plug adapter depending which battery you want to charge). (2 CTEK plugs into 1 white plug)
or as the aux battery has no current drain is should happily sit there for months (provided its charged up to start with)
Last edited by Pete K on 9th Sep 2018 11:38 pm. Edited 1 time in total
9th Sep 2018 10:45 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13611
Perfect , thks pete
You’ve been a life saver mate
That’s a great idea ref the rear tow bar pin , did install a fuse box in the back so could run it through that , also got some battery cable left over to run to the front and onto the aux battery
Seen how some of the other members have wired them up , ie running battery cable down the drivers side under the sill plastic trim
Have also got a spare ctek adaptor, so can utilise that for the aux battery , will be a good project for the winter and install it in the spring
U have an extensive amount of knowledge with the D3 and been invaluable
Along with having the patients of a saint
9th Sep 2018 11:24 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
gstuart wrote:
Removing fuse 46 , memory drivers seat , ( note the memory ecu had been bypassed )
Retrofitted -Cruise control -Front electric seats- D4 steering wheel stalks
Robbie wrote:
Robbie's Guide For Battery & Quiescent Drain Testing
1. Always start from a known good point with a charged battery. Please note that batteries can fail and self-discharge internally or even from crud spanning the gap between the terminals. Battery terminal connections should be pushed down the tapered terminal before tightening to ensure a good connection. All aftermarket electrical systems should be disconnected or isolated before testing. Do not convince yourself that the aftermarket kit was 'ok before so therefore it should be ok now'. No exceptions, disconnect it.
Congratulations on your investigations - it all paid off in the end, so well done.
Step 1 validated. Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13611
Hi Robbie
Thks so much as well, has been invaluable , learnt a lot along the way
Would have still been scratching my head and can’t even begin to say how thankful i am
Plus this is today’s battery reading , 6th day now
Had a nice 50 x mile round trip today and after replacing rear wishbones and front struts i couldn’t get over how nice it drove , well pleased , yet again a credit to the members here
Ps, also just ordered the steering wheel D4 pcbs from blackbox
11th Sep 2018 5:17 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Excellent. Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13611
Hi
Also now got my cruise control switch pack
Will use my D3 airbag for now, see the D4 one is nice and flat and will get one later on
Daft question if i may , I set the cruise control to ladder 1 on the iid, is it the same setting when I fit the D4 steering wheel plse
Many thks
11th Sep 2018 9:07 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13611
Well after 10 x days I thought I would do a quick battery reading
Am well pleased as before it would have been flat by now , happy days
Will plug the ctek in Monday
Plus I moved the battery module unit to the 12s fuse box I installed in the boot, as I reverse the disco onto the drive it’s a lot better with Bluetooth distance
16th Sep 2018 3:37 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13611
Also for a useless bit of info
Ref the black connector block that sits underneath the seat
The coloured plugs will only fit in there correct position so no chance of putting them in the wrong terminal
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
as it tends not to be used.
and its around 13v which is certainly good.
