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chesters
Member Since: 03 Oct 2005
Location: The Toon
Posts: 698
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Help re front anti roll bar nuts |
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I have just had a go at inserting the rubber shims behind the anti roll bar clamps on the front.
But couldn't get to the top nut on the N/S, I think I can only loosen it with a cranked 18mm ring spanner, that I don't have.
I didn't want to lever the roll bar / bracket too much with only the bottom nut off, in case something bent.
What has anyone else done when fitting this mod? The bushes don't look badly worn anyway for now.
Cheers. Arctic Frost Discovery 3 TDV6 SE, Active Rear Diff, Adaptive Head Lights, Tow Pack, Ebony Leather, Roof Rails, Mantec Guard. Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time.
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30th Jan 2010 2:57 pm |
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Gareth
Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26702
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A cranked 18mm ratchet spanner should do it.
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30th Jan 2010 3:58 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20732
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Get a big lever in and lever the ARB out enough to insert the spacer. You wont damage anything. Worst case scenario is you will have to lever the ARB backwards again to give you enough threads on the subframe stud to get the nut back on. A 3rd hand may be helpful here if you have levered it too much My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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30th Jan 2010 4:05 pm |
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chesters
Member Since: 03 Oct 2005
Location: The Toon
Posts: 698
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Thanks for the reply's i am going to have another go next sat. Arctic Frost Discovery 3 TDV6 SE, Active Rear Diff, Adaptive Head Lights, Tow Pack, Ebony Leather, Roof Rails, Mantec Guard. Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time.
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31st Jan 2010 9:07 am |
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10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
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Support the front diff & then unbolt & displace the side support casting - simples!
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1st Feb 2010 10:27 pm |
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chesters
Member Since: 03 Oct 2005
Location: The Toon
Posts: 698
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I have just fitted the front anti roll bar rubber shims. I have now got a decent cranked 18mm spanner and it was so much easier.
That little 10mm bolt that holds the diesel heater in place is a bit of a Bu99er to get into but I have managed.
My next job is front and rear pads. Can anyone tell me do you have to buy the front and rear wear sensor wiring kit when you do the pads. I want to fit genuine Landrover so who knows where I can get the best price on these bits?
I will also need a couple of fitting kits for the pads.
Cheers Paul. Arctic Frost Discovery 3 TDV6 SE, Active Rear Diff, Adaptive Head Lights, Tow Pack, Ebony Leather, Roof Rails, Mantec Guard. Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time.
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30th Mar 2010 8:20 pm |
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Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
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I did as 10forcash suggests, you can angle the mount out of the way to get better access, otherwise most socket and ratchet combinations won't get on the nut properly to give it the full beans.
As for the diesel radiator Its easy to remove if you take the transmission undersheild off.
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30th Mar 2010 10:04 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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If you buy the front and rear pads as genuine LR from nick at yeovil LR, then you will have all the bits you need except for the sensors. But if your careful and the sensors are not worn yet, then you don't need new ones. Bodsys Brake Bible
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30th Mar 2010 10:19 pm |
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chesters
Member Since: 03 Oct 2005
Location: The Toon
Posts: 698
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Thanks for the reply's. Arctic Frost Discovery 3 TDV6 SE, Active Rear Diff, Adaptive Head Lights, Tow Pack, Ebony Leather, Roof Rails, Mantec Guard. Tasmod Stainless Sill plates. Grabber AT's. Home made mud flaps. Side Steps back on until the next time.
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31st Mar 2010 6:49 pm |
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Q86ARR
Member Since: 23 Feb 2010
Location: Jersey
Posts: 378
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Just for everyones info the pads now only come with bolts, the metal clips are now seperate part numbers.
Sensors can be pulled out and refitted, dont loose the clip on the end of the sensor though.
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31st Mar 2010 10:21 pm |
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