Since the door locks and unlocks with the remote, I expect lack of use has "frozen" the mechanical bits or they are just out of sync. Just keep playing with rotating in the key hole and with the remote as well and perhaps you will get the bits back in sync.
Also sometimes the door locks get out of sync and it takes a few key fob pushbutton lock and unlock operations to get all back in sync - that may be what you were referring to.
If all else fails, you will have to remove the door card, (not easy), and try to get the rods lined up by hand.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
21st Dec 2014 10:26 pm
Copper
Member Since: 03 May 2015
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 14
Key fob failure
Hi I am new to the forum and would like to get any advice on the dreaded double key fob failure. Both of mine failed recently and after getting the diagnostic man out he tells me both keys are fine but the RF receiver is showing a fault. The garage has checked the wiring to the receiver and fitted a new one, there is 12 v supply to the receiver but still its not working! The doors lock when you drive off and open and close on the button on the dash, any ideas?
Corroded "phone" connector is probably the problem
Here is a number of links to where the problem probably is. The fix is relatively easy as well. A telephone like squeeze connector that LR uses has corroded internally. You have to find it, remove it and resplice.
I expect the links show the solution since both your key fobs do not work. If it was only one fob not working, then it could be a fob, but since both do not work, the fobs are probably OK.
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums/f41/k...elp-28115/2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
3rd May 2015 4:20 pm
Copper
Member Since: 03 May 2015
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 14
Thanks BBYER I will get the garage to check the splice, I actually looked at the wiring the other day when all the wires were uncovered and there is no sign of water ingress or corrosion to any of the wires?
Quite often the wires look good going into the spice and they just pull out when slightly pulled. Other times they seem to hold but do not conduct.
Let us know what side you found the splices on or was there one on each side.
Also there are separate splices for the rear door lock button lights down there as well. As such, check and see if your rear door lock buttons illuminate when the dashlights are on; also the front door buttons as well - but they probably are OK, but maybe not the rears.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
But I have to do this on my daughters Freelander maybe every 3 weeks.....
Over about 16 days the alarm goes to sleep....& you can't use the keyless entry
The only thing I would add is.....
Deluge the key lock hole with graphite do lock lubricant at least once a year....it make s a difference you can feel when you turn the lock....BREXIT - done properly.
Right now ...We need Government - not Politics
Save the Dipstick Flagbearer-keep it simple, less likely to fail campaign-agenda items:Starting Handles, Acetylene Lamps.
Founder: Dipsticks-R-Us Inc
D3 HSE-perfectly formed, passenger friendly...has real DIPSTICK
Jag XK-but sadly no DIPSTICK...HUGE design fault
FL2 has DIPSTICK..."real comfort in rear seats"
VW Golf wondermobile (?)..has real DIPSTICK
Morris Minor..original DIPSTICK technology..and a real KEY.
3rd May 2015 6:19 pm
Copper
Member Since: 03 May 2015
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 14
Hi bbyer If the connection is bad would you still get 12v going to the sensor?
Your question is I presume "if the key fob internal battery connection is intermittent, would the receiver located on the underside of the roof of the 3 still do what it is supposed to do - that is receive signal from the key fob and tell the door locks to lock or unlock?"
The short answer is not all the time.
The long answer is that intermittent means that the key fob sometimes transmits and sometimes not, depending upon whether the key fob battery connection is functioning or not. If the key fob battery stays connected long enough to send a signal then yes, but if not, no.
Also for the key fob battery to charge, the battery connection has to be working.
When the connection is open, no charge can enter the battery, nor can charge depart the battery to operate the transmitter.
If the question was "will there still be 12 volt going to the roof mounted receiver even when the key fob is not working, the answer is yes, there will be 12 VDC power into the roof mounted receiver as long as there is power in the vehicle battery.
If the question was "will door lock or unlock signal power exit the roof mounted receiver if there is 12VDC power going in, the answer is only when the receiver / transmitter is instructed to do so. That instruction would only come from a working key fob.
The link below is to a number of pdf files, wiring diagrams etc in my Album related to the locking system.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=38132005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
3rd May 2015 10:52 pm
Copper
Member Since: 03 May 2015
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 14
Hi bbyer, remote not working update. So far we have found the splice and soldered the 3 wires together, replaced the remote sensor and there is 12v supply going to it through one of the wires. Tried both keys in the ignition with the engine running for a min of 6 minutes to sync to the new receiver and still both key fobs are not working. Any ideas gratefully received!!
If you still have the original receiver / transmitter perhaps plug it back in and see if there is any improvement. My experience is that the PCB stuff generally is OK and the problems are simple things like the wires and connectors - but near impossible to figure out.
I think the receiver / transmitter is just that and not an item that has to be programmed or synchronized when installed new, but I am not certain.
I think all the door lock rolling code logic is contained down in the PDB behind the passenger side fuse box but I might still try putting the old unit back in temporarily as it may be OK.
I assume both keys are still the originals that have always worked. It is good that you have two keys as both do not quit at the same time whereas if you only had one, then there would be another variable.
The second idea is to this time, search on the drivers side for the same splice you found on the drivers side.
I do not actually know if there is a splice on both sides but sometimes guys find the splice on the drivers or left side and sometimes on the passenger or right side.
The reason I am not certain is because some posts come out of the UK with the steering wheel on the right and other posts, from LHD areas.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
11th May 2015 10:41 pm
Copper
Member Since: 03 May 2015
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 14
Hi bbyer, tried the old receiver and still no joy, one question though, should both the wires going to the receiver ( Green & Green/White) have 12v supply to them? the Green & White has but not the Green. We found the 3 wire connector, left hand side passenger seat which we have stripped and soldered. Does anyone have a indepth wiring diagram to upload? Many thanks.
12th May 2015 12:35 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Click image to enlarge
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
I looked for wiring diagrams additional to what is in my album and all that I found is the same as per Robbie above.
That drawing only shows two conductors, a green with white tracer plus a blue, but no solid green. Per below, the blue is the signal back to the CJB referred to below in what I copied from a LR pdf re the explanation of how the RF receiver operates.
The RF receiver converts the signals from the remote handset into digital messages and transmits them to the CJB (central junction box). The RF receiver is installed above the headlining, on the cross-rail between the top of the B pillars.
Operation of the RF receiver is powered by a permanent battery feed from the CJB (central junction box).
Regardless of colour, I do not think one would see a voltage on the "second" conductor with a normal voltmeter as it is apparently a "digital" signal - probably some kind of pulse rather than true digital but in any case, not power as we commonly know it.
Given that you found corroded wires on the passenger left side, I would then be digging thru the drivers right side now to see if there is a matching set of wires on that side as well. Hopefully there is and that finding and fixing them resolves the problem.
The jpg below is the passenger right side of a LHD 3 but perhaps that splice location also exists on the RHD models as well.
2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
12th May 2015 2:24 pm
Smileybill
Member Since: 06 Jan 2018
Location: Rossendale5
Posts: 1
Lost key
Dose any 1 have any tips on the cheapest way to get a new key for my disc 3
If you have a key with a blade for that car but the fob bit is knackered i.e. worn out battery and/or switches gone faulty or broken then yes you can make one that will be OK.
Take your key to a modern key cutting place, the machine will scan it and bring up its original profile and then cut a perfect new one from a blank.
Ebay do kits with new fob, battery and switches that you can destroy yours and swap the electronics over together with soldering a new battery in as well as replacing the switches, soldering skills required.
There are traders that you send your key to and they will do the difficult soldering bit for a price.
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