Member Since: 04 Dec 2020
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 32
Did you ever solve this?
24th Oct 2021 7:49 am
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
No, it is still like it 10 months after I bought it.
I haven't managed to get any further forward, so I am now thinking that it might be a sticking VNT mechanism inside the turbo. The plan is to change the turbo soon and check out the link pipe at the same time. Just need to get my Dolomite project off the lift first.
I take it that you have the same issue then?
24th Oct 2021 8:51 pm
Daddy_pig_disco
Member Since: 04 Dec 2020
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 32
Not the same but I was just interested, I have an issue with HPFP which I am replacing soon.
24th Oct 2021 8:55 pm
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
This is still the same as ever, although, apart from a suspension compressor issue, it has proved to be pretty reliable.
I did smoke test the intake system a few weeks ago but I couldn't find any leaks, so I am going to change the turbo. The DMF/release bearing are getting noisy too, so I will probably do the flywheel and clutch at the same time and, IIRC, the gearbox being out slightly improves turbo access with the body on.
I know I have to cut the turbo mounting studs to get it out but what size bolts do I need to get to re-fit it with?
11th Aug 2022 10:42 pm
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
I finally have a bit of spare time. I have a replacement turbo, clutch kit and DMF in the garage, so will be starting on it this week.
1st Jan 2023 10:46 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576
GDM wrote:
This is still the same as ever, although, apart from a suspension compressor issue, it has proved to be pretty reliable.
I did smoke test the intake system a few weeks ago but I couldn't find any leaks, so I am going to change the turbo. The DMF/release bearing are getting noisy too, so I will probably do the flywheel and clutch at the same time and, IIRC, the gearbox being out slightly improves turbo access with the body on.
I know I have to cut the turbo mounting studs to get it out but what size bolts do I need to get to re-fit it with?
Hiya
Sorry to hear you’ve got to replace the turbo , I think the nut u need is an M10 copper flanged nut, ref part number LR025680
Plse let us know how u get on as can certainly sympathise when I had vibrations around 55mph, kept going into limp mode and lack of power , was a nightmare replacing all my intercooler hoses , intake ir pipe , T bolt clamps , also air leak where the egr pipes fitted to the throttle body , found that using a smoke machine where it added air pressure and then used soapy water to find the leaks , fitted a new D4 Map sensor , then checked the % of turbo actuator arm travel using live data within the gap iid tool to ensure the arm was moving freely and not sticking
Lastly instead of using spray can applications I got one of those battery grease guns , made up a long nozzle and applied red grease which I found lasted longer with it sticking to the actuator arm / ball better
Here’s the link to my thread just in case there may be something useful
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
Thanks.
I need bolts to replace the studs and nuts but I have the new turbo, so I can check the thread sizes now.
That's a long thread! I will have a read through.
I have smoke tested mine, and replaced the MAP sensor and the MAF. I am so stumped with it that the next thing is to eliminate the turbo. It's done 170,000 miles, so if it's still on the original, it will probably be past it's best.
Fingers crossed.
2nd Jan 2023 10:33 pm
Nc1989
Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 202
Just replaced the turbo on mine again as the recon fitted 4 years ago (for the same reasons) was throwing up a mix of overboost and actuator codes when driven hard or with the trailer on. Fitted a genuine new Borg Warner turbo and was shocked how much pickup down low it had lost over time without me realising. I mean it’s still not brilliant but it starts grunting away from 1500ish again now rather than nothing until over 2k like it was especially in the final weeks before changing the turbo.
I wiggled my turbo out without cutting the studs, the new updated turbo didn’t have any threads or studs in it I assume to ease fitment, just used M8 nuts, bolts and washers - this will depend on the turbo you have mind. Mines a manual too and the turbo does sneak out past the bellhousing, if you’re taking the box off you’ll have even more room.
3rd Jan 2023 12:48 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576
GDM wrote:
Thanks.
I need bolts to replace the studs and nuts but I have the new turbo, so I can check the thread sizes now.
That's a long thread! I will have a read through.
I have smoke tested mine, and replaced the MAP sensor and the MAF. I am so stumped with it that the next thing is to eliminate the turbo. It's done 170,000 miles, so if it's still on the original, it will probably be past it's best.
Fingers crossed.
Ur so welcome and indeed a long thread as my god I went down the rabbit hole, found all sorts of other issues at the same time ,so the job got bigger as I went through everything , including the earth posts that the ecm use hidden behind the passenger side wheel arch liner where it gets it’s 5vdc feed
Also removed the ecm as some of the pins where dirty the list kept going, lol
Ref the smoke test also at first didn’t see any leaks, it was only when I pressurised it and then bubble tested the egr pipes that I found it with soapy water
Would have been lost without the use of the gap iid and the awesome forum members who really helped be big time in what to look for , also found using the gap iid live data very useful where it gives u the degree the turbo actuator is moving
Hope it’s not to much of a mare to change and resolves all the issues and imagine it will make a big difference along with saving yourself a fortune from labour costs , I had a few quotes of around £3-4k to change my turbo
All the best to u and please let us know how u get on
3rd Jan 2023 6:32 am
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
Put the Discovery on the lift earlier in the week and found the NSF front caliper is binding, so that's another job on the list.
Removed the under-shields, crossmember, front and rear prop-shafts and the heat shields around the turbo last night.
Have just pulled the centre console apart and disconnected the gear lever mounting.
Got to go out now but will do some more this afternoon.
7th Jan 2023 10:47 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576
That’s brilliant where u have the lift and imagine that makes life considerably easier along with not being out in the elements
Look forward to see how u get on mate , many thks for updating us
7th Jan 2023 10:43 pm
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
Got the exhaust off this evening (after struggling with the nuts on the turbo joint) and the gearbox out. It was a very tight fit and we did wonder if it was going to clear everything at one point. We started unbolting the turbo but I am struggling to see what size allen/torx is needed for the banjo bolt on the oil feed. Does anyone know?
The lift is great but with the pitched roof above it, there isn't enough space to get the Discovery all the way up. Otherwise we might have been able to take the body off.
8th Jan 2023 12:55 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576
Bet that was a challenge seeing that exhausts normally are
Found the following extract for u , regarding the oil feed pipe, looks like the bolt comes with the banjo pipe
If working on the ground, lift suspension remove heat shields from behind wheel,
Using a 10mm spanner and a small hex bit to remove feed pipe banjo bolt then from drivers side on top of the bell housing there's an 8mm bolt securing the pipe to the engine block
Plus link for regarding turbo components / pipes etc
Last edited by gstuart on 9th Jan 2023 1:11 am. Edited 1 time in total
8th Jan 2023 2:15 am
GDM
Member Since: 18 Oct 2020
Location: Midhurst, West Sussex
Posts: 144
That's very useful. Thanks.
From what I can make out from a previous post on removing the turbo, the banjo bolt on the oil feed is a T50 torx. space is tight, so I have ordered a Wera compact ratchet that takes the 1/4" bits.
9th Jan 2023 12:58 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13576
Great it helped a little
Must confess u talking of tools etc I bought a long neck ratchet , crow feet UJ’s , along with other tools which made life a lot easier on various jobs , even ones to remove the multitude of plastic clips from within the plastic wheel arch liner , knipex pliers for egr pipe clips etc
Amazing how many different tools that u collect over the years , plus 1 to the wera tools as really well made
Hope all goes well and make progress without to much hassle , thks again for the update as very interesting
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