In the first post Ceekay says "I've located the actuator next to the stop/start battery but not sure if installing a new battery will cure the actuator stuck closed part or if i will actually need a new actuator."
Now looking at the TOPIx manual, there's no mention of a Dual battery junction box
Anyone shed any light on what the problem might be and/or confirm that the GWM in above diagram is the Dual battery junction box please?
Cheers,
JasonDiscovery 4 HSE - Aintree Green
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Member Since: 14 Mar 2021
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 287
Subscribing to this as I’m having the same issue.
I have replaced my main battery to see if I can rule out that…. The low warning hasn’t appeared now for 3 days but I still have no start/stop. I have reset both BCM and still nothing.
I will look for the GWM code on IID tool today.A mod a week until I have nothing to improve or add.
9th May 2022 6:25 am
Green Land Rover
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: Stourbridge
Posts: 412
Seems a fairly straight forward job on the D4, Evoque not so!!!
Found a dual battery junction box on eBay (referred to by part no LR067367 or LR internal number EJ32-14F70-AB:
Seems to have its own fusebox. Wondering if maybe one of the fuses has gone in there I'll take a look later on and report back. Modules tend to go from anything from £20 to £90. £500ish for new one.Discovery 4 HSE - Aintree Green
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Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
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Ur so welcome and great it was of some use , that would be a fantastic result if it’s just the fuse saving u alot of money
Plse let us know how u get on, fingers crossed for u
9th May 2022 12:21 pm
Green Land Rover
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: Stourbridge
Posts: 412
Had some spare time today so decided to re-visit this.
Found this video on YT:
So checked batteries as this guy did and got following results:
Engine Off: Main - 12.62V, Starter - 12.68V
Engine On: Main 14.28V, Starter 14.18V
My understanding is that this means batteries are both ok. Anyone confirm anything to the contrary?
They should be ok. It's a 2014MY that has done 42k. Whenever it's parked up the CTEK charger is connected.
So, decided to pull the LR067367 module out and check the fuses. This is where the fun began! Two of the battery cable retaining nuts came off OK, the other one just span until a crunch was felt and it just came off
Looking at the nut, it seems that it's been torqued up too much as the nut is damaged. Some oaf at the factory or dealership no doubt!
Need to get some rounded nut removers now and a new nut.
Hopefully once I've got those I can get the module off, check the fuses and then decide whether a new module is needed or not.
Will report back...
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Member Since: 17 Jul 2020
Location: Central Scotland
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I've used the Irwin nut/bolt removers, worked fine for me on really rusted heads, I'd expect them to remove that nut easily, vice grips?
22nd May 2022 9:28 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14142
Plus 1 ^^^^
Also found as a last resort using a dremel with a thin cutting blade very useful, used it on wiper arms once to remove them
22nd May 2022 11:27 pm
Green Land Rover
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: Stourbridge
Posts: 412
Thanks for hints and tips.
Tried my Mole grips on it but difficult to turn because of shroud at top/bottom of stud. However this has reminded me that I have a cheapo tiny pair somewhere! Will try those later.Discovery 4 HSE - Aintree Green
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Member Since: 16 Jan 2020
Location: East/West Sussex Coast Borders
Posts: 1200
Could you not cut off the shroud(s), it would be easier to then get a decent grip.
Dave2011 Discovery 4 Commercial SDV6 (Gone)
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23rd May 2022 8:12 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14142
Green Land Rover wrote:
Thanks for hints and tips.
Tried my Mole grips on it but difficult to turn because of shroud at top/bottom of stud. However this has reminded me that I have a cheapo tiny pair somewhere! Will try those later.
Plus 1 with regards to the shrouds, if u haven’t got something like a dremel maybe using a new blade in a stanly knife to score them to allow u to bend them out the way
Must admit have found using mole grips etc tend to grip onto the thread, whereas using a dremel could cut those shrouds off very easily and then cut length ways on either side in order to split the nut off without damaging the thread
Or one of those irwin sockets , as indeed will come in very useful for other jobs , wonder with the shrouds out the way if it may allow u to turn the cable anti clockwise as maybe the nut will spin loose
Hope u find a solution
23rd May 2022 12:54 pm
Green Land Rover
Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: Stourbridge
Posts: 412
Had a trip out in the Disco yesterday for the first time since trying to remove the module as above.
At the first set of lights I stopped at the ECO start/stop stopped the engine. The start/stop hasn't worked since the fault occurred and this reminded me that I hadn't done anything since trying to get the module out a few days ago.
Wondering if disconnecting the ECU from the battery has fixed the issue??? i.e. it had got into some state where it thought there was a low battery issue and couldn't get out of it. Removing the power has essentially initiated a cold reboot.
I haven't check to see if the fault is still present yet but the Low Battery warning hasn't popped up on the display when I checked about 10 mins ago. Will read the fault codes out later and report back.Discovery 4 HSE - Aintree Green
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Member Since: 21 Oct 2017
Location: Stourbridge
Posts: 412
Just a quick update on what's happened since my last post:
Ordered a new module from eBay (£20ish)
Removed the broken nut with this nut remover set
Replaced it with a good nut from the eBay module.
I haven't replaced the module so still have the eBay one as a spare.
Fault has not re-occurred since the disconnect/re-connect of the battery as per my previous post.
Will update again if anything changes.Discovery 4 HSE - Aintree Green
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I'll take a look later on and report back. Modules tend to go from anything from £20 to £90. £500ish for new one.
