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powella
Member Since: 29 Dec 2008
Location: Sydney
Posts: 68
  
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I haven't found that part number on the AMP yet...
There are no apparent Numbers visible with it still in place. I hope to pop it out tomorrow (assuming the Dentist is not too rough on me).
AP 2007 Discovery 3 HSE TDV6, Java Black. Towing a Kimberley Karavan... somewhere...
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 3rd Apr 2009 9:37 am |
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BBS SPY
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
  
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I have been doing some checking, it seems that there are only a couple of part numbers for Amps
In basic there are two types, the Harman Kardon AUD2C and the Harman Kardon Logic 7 AUD4
its this latter one that is the one that needs all the extra speakers, the first is very likely the one you have AP and is in fact the one i have turns out to be that one too. 
Yet even more good news, i found that the antennae diversity is provided via a separate module, meaning that with luck it may simply use the same window antennae arrangement. Even better still I have found an option in the CCF data of the car to enable or disable antenna diversity. with luck therefore it might be that the antennae problem is also quite easily overcome.
I do have a vehicle wiring loom and dash loom for a Low line spec D3, its starting to look like i might need to set that up as a test bed. I could do with a spare high line radio though, as my only one is in constant use on our standard test jig. Can anyone help me locate one at a reasonable price. Another Amp might also come in handy. 
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| 4th Apr 2009 9:46 pm |
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powella
Member Since: 29 Dec 2008
Location: Sydney
Posts: 68
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AndrewS wrote:I was going to say why dont you simply buy the car with the spec you want  but decided not to as I would get shouted at. I am all up for sorting things out and getting stuff to work and the likes. But (Anal Sensible Head ON) When to take your car into a dealer to part ex they may frown on the mods you have made, and devalue the car  Not having a dig BTW.
FWIW here are my thoughts, not shouting either.
You have to remember that a lot of us are now buying these 2nd hand, hence you get as close as you can to what you want. I paid 60% of the orginal price for my D3, it was 16 months old. I will have my vehicle for up to 10 years, by then the buyers and dealers won't give a toss about the exact specs it came out of the factory with, they will only care that it is a D3 S/SE/HSE Auto/Manual TDV6/V6/V8.
In the interim the dealer can only state that it is interesting that I have done X/Y/Z to the car, after all it is my car.
Unlike with some products, I didn't sign an agreement that I woudln't reverse engineer or modify the product....
AP 2007 Discovery 3 HSE TDV6, Java Black. Towing a Kimberley Karavan... somewhere...
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| 4th Apr 2009 10:08 pm |
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powella
Member Since: 29 Dec 2008
Location: Sydney
Posts: 68
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I haven't been able to stick my head under the seat for any decent period of time...
House work had to be done, so I spent Sunday on the end of a jack hammer, and the taking the spoils to the tip. The down pipe fed into a blocked drain, so at least I now know why that side of the house is so wet. A little bit of plumbing and it is all solved.
AP 2007 Discovery 3 HSE TDV6, Java Black. Towing a Kimberley Karavan... somewhere...
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| 6th Apr 2009 9:14 am |
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powella
Member Since: 29 Dec 2008
Location: Sydney
Posts: 68
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All right I got the amp out, as the part numbers are one the bottom.
Inscriptions:
AUD 2C / XQK500095
H02 / S0420
6910 / HBSN 1431528
6910LY067634626
2 high line
Cheers,
AP 2007 Discovery 3 HSE TDV6, Java Black. Towing a Kimberley Karavan... somewhere...
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| 10th Apr 2009 5:20 am |
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BBS SPY
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
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Cool, Thanks AP
My Amp is an AUD 2C / XQK500093
So i am now even more convinced than ever that it is basically the same.
Despite being very heavily pre occupied with our software development at present, i have managed to do some more research and a lot more thinking on this.
I have discovered that amazingly the low line and high line radios use exactly the same 3 connectors. (2 main ones plus antennae) The pins that have the speaker outputs on low line are simply not used on high line with all others doing the same job. In addition, on the amp, if no requirement for headphone jacks is added, then just one connector is used for all the speakers. The main input power goes through another can actually be supplied via standard spade connectors if required. So it is looking like that job can be done with just one connector and a handful of pins pins, the job does become at least feasible. However we would also require to make a fiber optic loop for the MOST which is also not exactly insurmountable and i am still looking into.
In any event, putting together some form of Fibre optic connectivity is going to be required anyway, and Although i have a few spare MOST bus type fiber optic connectors myself in my bits and bobs box and could probably source the fiber optic cable, cut it, dress the ends (as they have to be sanded and polished with a small easily available kit)
and I have indeed already had some successful experience with adding and removing items from the MOST bus fiber optic loop. I am more concerned at approaching this as a possibility and task that others without access to my bits and bobs box might be able to comfortably undertake.
On that basis, it might become a requirement to have some elements pre manufactured and it would be good if i can get some gauge the demand. / numbers that might be involved.
Therefore assuming that we can ultimately provide a small set of the required items to make the job pretty much plug and play at a low enough cost, can i ask anyone who is interested to indicate as much
warmest regards.
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| 12th Apr 2009 6:12 pm |
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mac.marty
Member Since: 30 Jan 2009
Location: Wiesbaden
Posts: 68
 
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Question to the AMP
If I understood you correct, you believe that the AMP is the same with different software to provide different output (per channel) as stated in the specs for a 8 or 12 speaker system. Considering the fact, that the premium system 7.1 has an active (own power supply) subwoofer this might be the case.The question now woould be, how to configure the amp - just pin based or software or dip switches somewhere on/in the amp.
I know this would only be part of your project, but interesting to know for those that might want to "upgrade" the subwoofer of their highline system and use the extra watts on the other channels...
... and would also give more options of used amps to buy from a wreck...for those who would like to do the full upgrade...
Martin
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| 15th Apr 2009 10:42 pm |
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BBS SPY
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
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Hiya Martin
Errm no,
To cover / explain the amp / speaker situation totally for everyones interest
there are 3 combinations.
Low Line (Base Spec) which comprises
low line head unit with a built in 4 channel amp delivering unknown wattage per channel.
6 speakers in total made up of;
2 mid/bass in front doors,
2 tweeters in front doors
2 full range in rear doors.
wired with;
1 pair of wires going to each door (4 channels).
Hi Line which comprises
High line head unit, 6 CD changer
Separate 6 channel Amp (AUD2C) under seat delivering 50 watts per channel
9 Speakers in total
2 mid/bass in front doors,
2 tweeters in front doors,
2 mid/bass in rear doors.
2 tweeters in rear doors,
1 Sub woofer in tailgate.
wired with;
1 pair of wires (channel) going to each door (4 channels).
2 pairs of wires going to the sub Woofer (2 channels)
Premium which comprises;
High line head unit, 6 CD changer
Separate 12 channel Amp (AUD4) under seat delivering 50 watts per channel
14 Speakers in total made up of
2 tweeters in front doors,
2 mid in front doors,
2 bass in front doors,
2 tweeters in rear doors,
2 mid/bass in rear doors.
1 Sub woofer in tailgate.
2 surround speakers in each rear pillar
1 center speaker in middle of dash
wired with;
2 pairs of wires going to each front door (4 channels)
1 pair of wires (channel) going to each rear door. (2 channels)
2 pairs of wires (channels) going to the sub Woofer (2 channels)
1 pair of wires going to each rear pillar speaker (2 channels)
1 pair of wires going to the center of dash speaker (1 channel)
Yep that leaves an unused / unconnected channel but thats what the wiring shows  .
As long as the low line speakers can take 50W, i will have to look the Low line units output but it seems like it could well be 4 x 50, It should be very easy to configure a hi line amp to work using the wiring / speakers of the Low Line speakers. by just adding the sub woofer, which could actually be an after market one.
but, although a bit trickier, i personally would very likely push this to the premium. I already have the door cards and door wiring and will be having the dash top off to put in the touch screen anyway, so i may as well add one there at the same time. Bit tricker for the surround speakers though. But i am sure something will turn up, and i could live without them and protect the amp by fitting dummy load resistors on them 2 channels for the time being.
Last edited by BBS SPY on 16th Apr 2009 11:12 am. Edited 1 time in total
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| 16th Apr 2009 10:09 am |
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PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
 
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I have a 'spare' low-line radio at home so I'll have a look at the stickers on it, but I seem to remember that it was 4x50W...
BTW - there's no need to remove the dash top to fit the touch-screen or the centre speaker. Doing so would probably just leave it squeeking so much you'll need another 14 speakers to drown out the noise 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Buckingham Blue
2007 Golf GT DSG
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| 16th Apr 2009 11:08 am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
 
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Just looked at my low-lline head unit. No notification of wattage but I would not think it would be that high. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 16th Apr 2009 12:49 pm |
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PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
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Caver
I definitely seem to remember seeing it somewhere and I don't think it was related to the high-line radio.
I'm not so sure it couldn't be 50W per channel....to be honest it does go very loud and I don't think it would be a problem to have 4 channels of 50W inside the unit - obviously 12 channels is too much hence the need for a separate amp. (I think) 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Buckingham Blue
2007 Golf GT DSG
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| 16th Apr 2009 12:53 pm |
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BBS SPY
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
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You know i must be having an off day, i actually already know the numerical answer for the radio.
it will be 4 x 25 Watts. From past knowledge repairing, radios i know you can't actually get more than 25Watts from anything powered off 12 volts without it having some power supply switching circuit to step up the voltage which makes them bigger and need extra cooling, hence anything above 25 Watts tends to be a stand alone amp sort of thing.
Really its more a case of if the speakers are rated high enough. chances are they will use the same ones, if not may be a case of slapping some after market ones behind the grilles.
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| 16th Apr 2009 2:12 pm |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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You will definately need to change the speakers on the low line. OEM are realy bad. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 16th Apr 2009 11:02 pm |
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BBS SPY
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
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Sounds like you have a little experience in doing that CaverD3
I am guessing they are standard size with standard mountings / connectors etc. If so it should be a simple enough job to replace only the speakers for decent after market ones, EG pioneer that would take the new wattage.
It would be great if you could share with us what you know in respect of uprating just the standard speaker units only.
Its ok for me, i have a set of Premium door cards and door wiring, but i really wanted to cover the conversion from A to Z for others who might only want to go part way.
Regards
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| 19th Apr 2009 3:16 pm |
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caverD3
Member Since: 03 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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No, not standard fitting the OEM speakers are mounted in their own housing (permanently) you need to make your own spacers for them. The tweeters are very small so some cutting with a soldering iron is required with some plastic welding to fit them (you could use hot-melt glue)
The premium have better tweeters and a mid range as well. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 20th Apr 2009 1:14 am |
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