90BHP
Member Since: 18 Oct 2006
Location: Half way along the road on the right
Posts: 3706
  
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Cool. Two birds with one stone. Will sort out a day in the week - just need to settle my diary and email inbox when ireturn to work on monday from a few days off  "To finish first, one first has to finish ...."
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 25th Oct 2008 9:46 pm |
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APG
Member Since: 12 Oct 2008
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 75
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I have swapped lots of MS and galv bolts for SS on my previous defenders.
There are a couple of problems with stainless.
If you use stainless against non stainless in some circumstances, depending on metals, you can get a bit of electrolytic corrosion. Also if you use a stainless nut and bolt they have the tendency to bite and seal against each other meaning you need to either snap or cut them off.
Easiest solution is to use grease or copperslip.
Aviation industry uses a jointing compound to prevent this. The one I have always used is a barium compound called Duralac though there are others. It comes in a setting and a non setting form. On Defenders over the past 6 years it has prevented all of the above. The main advantage is it is designed for purpose and is longer lasting than grease based products.
Unfortunately when I bought my G4 rack the previous owner hadn't done this so a number of bolts had sealed against each other meaning I had to fabricate some more stainless plates. Not an easy job...! Allan
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| 26th Oct 2008 10:10 am |
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TSR2
Member Since: 22 Jul 2008
Location: North Lincolnshire
Posts: 1104
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Hi Alan,
I didn't mean to suggest that stainless and carbon steel cannot be used together. The big thing you have to look at is "service". Stainless steel and carbon steel will not react galvanically with out a liquid solution to aid the attack, by putting an impermeable barrier between the two they can be used successfully. I would suggest that the environment under a car is about as bad as it gets much worse than aviation industry. Regularly wetted, in the winter by salt solutions and in the drying period PH in crevices can reach concentrated acid levels. The bolts will invariably be Austenitic stainless steel probably 316 ss which suffers from chloride pitting and corrosion so when the salt contacts the steel and warms up with the weather chloride attack will occur. If you have ever seen a stainless object with black dots on it that is chloride pitting. Cuttlery cleaned in a dishwasher usually shows signs of this.
Apologies for sticking my nose in I just wanted you to be aware of the facts. In the offshore industry this mixing of steels occurs all too often and costs the industry millions of pounds a year. I'm trying at the moment to educate the construction engineers into banning this practise.
When I get my plate from Ray needless to say I'll be using galvi coated bolts. 
Trev.
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| 26th Oct 2008 11:59 am |
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APG
Member Since: 12 Oct 2008
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 75
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TSR2
 Errr....
I bow to your superior knowledge... And indeed offshore is even worse than motoring.
I just know they go funny and you can't get them off if you don't coat them...! 
Your point regarding service is important as even galv bolts will corrode with time. My 05 110 door bolts were all showing signs, so I swapped them for the barium chromate past covered stainless bolts... Allan
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| 26th Oct 2008 12:29 pm |
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TSR2
Member Since: 22 Jul 2008
Location: North Lincolnshire
Posts: 1104
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Allan,
I should have written "Galvi bolts coated in copious amounts of grease".
Again apologies for being anal about this, a bit of a hobby horse with me at the moment. 
Trev.
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| 26th Oct 2008 12:35 pm |
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APG
Member Since: 12 Oct 2008
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 75
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Not anal at all..!
But then this is from someone who uses barium chromate paste on bolts for a 10 year old Defender
If you're going to do a job then do it right..!  Allan
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| 26th Oct 2008 12:53 pm |
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TSR2
Member Since: 22 Jul 2008
Location: North Lincolnshire
Posts: 1104
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I couldn't agree more.
If Barium Chromate paste works, then it works even if it may be OTT. It must have excellent insulation properties to work as well as you are obviously experiencing....see got me going again!
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| 26th Oct 2008 1:03 pm |
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APG
Member Since: 12 Oct 2008
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 75
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Sorry for hi jacking the thread...
I best not get you started on the TSR2 project then...
Spec from a random supplier here for your info...
Duralac
I have had 3 Defenders so I know all about rust... Allan
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| 26th Oct 2008 1:09 pm |
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jkp
Member Since: 17 Sep 2005
Location: Living among Bawbags
Posts: 4528
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TSR2, I had years of that type of education when working offshore, mainly after major shutdowns and no insulating kits fitted to flanges  The effects can be quite dramatic in a short space of time.
I've taken the lazy route with mine. The dealer breaks them trying to remove the plate when servicing, so he replaces them all for me
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| 26th Oct 2008 1:23 pm |
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TSR2
Member Since: 22 Jul 2008
Location: North Lincolnshire
Posts: 1104
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I like your style !
Trev.
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| 26th Oct 2008 1:29 pm |
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Donald
Member Since: 15 May 2007
Location: Inverness
Posts: 188
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Molyslip also make a product called Nickelslip especially for stainless nuts and bolts, you don't get the dissimilar metal interaction from the nickel and copper. Chipped, K&N, tow pack, AT2's, Mantec, fridge in boot, invertor, Garmin, laptop/Memory Map, Optima yellow top, Traxide Kit, Phillips Extreme bulbs
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| 26th Oct 2008 3:26 pm |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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So, Moose, I don't need to send you mine now then? But could I have two sets please? Midlands meet in November would be good Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 26th Oct 2008 3:29 pm |
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90BHP
Member Since: 18 Oct 2006
Location: Half way along the road on the right
Posts: 3706
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Bodsy, I'll take one of mine over when I collect my jack-pin-thing "To finish first, one first has to finish ...."
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| 26th Oct 2008 3:46 pm |
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philhunt
Member Since: 16 Sep 2007
Location: MI5 not 9 to 5
Posts: 1761
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Chris (Shiny Moose) - could you spare me a set of coated nuts for mine? Will obviously cover all of your expenses.
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| 26th Oct 2008 6:32 pm |
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ronp
Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15214
 
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Just went to buy some Bolts for my [phantom] Mantec plate.
Was told it's not 'Bolts' I need but 'Set Screws'
Seemingly Bolts have an unthreaded shoulder.
Whilst Set Screws are threaded all the way down to the head.
Well, that was news to me.
Got them now anyway - grade 8.8, 17mm hex head, 80p for the 4.
So just awaiting the plate .....hhmm 
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| 29th Oct 2008 3:59 pm |
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