Handylandy
Member Since: 25 Jul 2020
Location: Kent
Posts: 13
 
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| New Disco 3 Owner - Problem with Auto Gearbox |
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Hi
This is my very first Land Rover....!!!! Recently acquired a high mileage (190K) one owner vehicle with good history and transmission fluid changed about 140K and fortunately the vehicle has never been used for towing. The problem is kick down appears to be causing gears 5+6 to be locked out of use. Cleared all stored fault codes however problem returns. Interestingly though when selecting gears in manual (or sport?) mode, I can select all gears up and down (including gears 5+6) without a problem. For this reason I’m not convinced at this point the auto box itself is terminally faulty and requires replacement. The cruise control also doesn’t appear to work but all the other buttons on the steering wheel work fine so not automatically suspecting a faulty clock spring, but I do have a feeling the two issues could well be interlinked. Could this problem be related to brake light bulbs and the brake light switch or is there other things I should now go off and check?
Any help, or suggestions or what to check next would be great. Apologies if this is topic is covered elsewhere but I couldn’t find a thread with this exact issue.
Many thanks.
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 1st Aug 2020 7:47 am |
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Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1780
 
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Like all good things, codes are the way to go, that way you can be pointed in the right direction. It may be low on oil.
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| 1st Aug 2020 8:56 am |
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cfcjim
Member Since: 22 Jun 2010
Location: Munich
Posts: 65
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Definitely change the brake light switch and the bulbs - cheap and easy.
Also, check your tyres are all the same i.e. the wear patterns are as close to identical as possible. Different circumferences can cause the autobox to hang on to gears.
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| 3rd Aug 2020 8:11 am |
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Handylandy
Member Since: 25 Jul 2020
Location: Kent
Posts: 13
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Interestingly I have checked the bulbs in both rear clusters and two 21w/5w bulbs (one each side) were incorrectly fitted rather than straight (21w) bulbs which should have been there. I figure this could cause slightly more current to be drawn as the single centre contact in the holder would bridge both solder blobs on the lamp. Ordered a complete new set of correct bulbs and a brake light switch so will report back on that. The tyres on the front need to be replaced (2mm) but the rears are 7mm one side and 3mm the other. Could this possibly have an impact ? Many thanks.
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| 3rd Aug 2020 10:35 am |
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Oswiperus
D3 Decade
Member Since: 02 Apr 2010
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Posts: 1590
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21W/5W stop/tail bulbs are the correct fitment. Stu
2016 D4 Landmark current
2022 Defender D300 SE Gone 
D4 2014 XS Commercial - Gone
D4 2016 hse lux montalcino red - Gone
D3 2005 se java black - current
D3 2005 base manual - gone
D2 1999 TD5 E white - current
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| 3rd Aug 2020 11:58 am |
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Handylandy
Member Since: 25 Jul 2020
Location: Kent
Posts: 13
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Agree for the brake lights they should be 21/5w but each cluster should have three 21/5w and two 21w lamps. Black holders are 21/5w and grew are 21w. The incorrect ones were in the grey 21w holders so probably won’t affect the breaking system but all will be changed to new quality Osram lamps.
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| 3rd Aug 2020 1:33 pm |
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teddy
Member Since: 22 Jul 2017
Location: suffolk
Posts: 72
 
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hmm, I'd be looking to get the rears to the same tread depth, then going for another transmission flush. If it's done 50k since the last change, it's worth doing again. Try resetting the adaptive settings on the box as well maybe? 2010MY Disco 4 HSE in Ipanema Sand over Almond.
It's got THE rear diff.
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| 3rd Aug 2020 7:24 pm |
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Handylandy
Member Since: 25 Jul 2020
Location: Kent
Posts: 13
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| Next Steps or Final Solution? |
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Update: Flushed the transmission and changed the transmission fluid, filter and Mechatronic seals. Found phosphor bronze debris in fluid. Refilled with ZF and added a sachet of DrTranny. Almost zero improvement and £700 lighter. Clearly this was going to go either way and I should have known better than entertain an each-way bet with a Landrover! I guess the only way out will be to refurb / rebuild the gearbox which I’ve been quoted £2300 to do, however, the vehicle is 2005 HSE and has done 194K. If it weren’t for covid severely over inflating the price of used cars I would have PX’d it. Bizarrely I’m considering it because apart from the gearbox issue at overall it isn’t too bad. At this point the jury’s out as to whether I’m throwing good money after bad. If it has 150K on it would be a no brainier but I’m still undecided and would be interested in the forum thoughts as to what the best road to go down is or what alternatives there may be? Cheers ☺
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| 10th Apr 2021 8:58 pm |
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motorworks
Member Since: 14 Nov 2019
Location: Usk
Posts: 401
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I see no logical reason why a gearbox oil change would fix a shift problem in specific gears. If you drained the oil and found debris, why waste the cost of new oil and an additive which at best is only a temporary fix.
Your D3 is at an age and mileage where several high cost repairs are likely, even with good service history. If you like the car enough to accept further costs, as and when they occur, then keep it and enjoy D3 motoring.
Apart from the cost of gearbox flush, the car should be worth somewhere near purchase price, unless you have realised this is the reason previous owner decided to sell. As a financial decision, I would say cut your losses and move on. Chris
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| 10th Apr 2021 9:42 pm |
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aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
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How warm is the engine when this happens? The gearbox holds lower gears to help the engine warm up.
It could even be a faulty temperature sender Andrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
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| 10th Apr 2021 10:33 pm |
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munst
Member Since: 16 Sep 2020
Location: GLOS
Posts: 155
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If you have that much material in the oil then I think we can assume the box needs attention.
£700 for just a pan and oil change? I would get some more quotes before you go ahead with the rebuild with that company.
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| 11th Apr 2021 7:52 am |
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Handylandy
Member Since: 25 Jul 2020
Location: Kent
Posts: 13
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In fairness to the indie it was ZF fluid, filter and removal / replacement of the mechatronic to box seals and wasn’t with any box rebuilder.
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| 11th Apr 2021 9:16 am |
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sarumlight
Member Since: 07 Nov 2008
Location: Off the Plain
Posts: 1590
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At that mileage I don’t think it makes sense to spend any money on gearbox except a proper refurb with all the bearings and gears checked and new clutches, seals, mechatronics and torque converter. Had mine replaced a couple of years ago and it drives like new.
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| 11th Apr 2021 10:01 am |
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Trailered Movements
Member Since: 16 Jan 2020
Location: East/West Sussex Coast Borders
Posts: 1198
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I've just transported a customers D3 to Engineered Transmissions in Rainham (Essex) for a gearbox rebuild.
Have no idea what he is paying, but apparently if they can't fix the problem, they don't charge anything.
It might be worth a call, even if only to have their point of view.
Dave 2011 Discovery 4 Commercial SDV6 (Gone)
2010 RRS TDV8 (Gone)
1980 OBLIC 4.0ltr Range Rover (went a long time ago)
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| 11th Apr 2021 10:05 am |
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lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
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Being bit of a mechnaical animal, I would reset the gearbox parameters and see how you go, you have nothig to lose?
Personally I think spending 2.5 k on a gearbox refurb which is way over half the cars value is kind of mad.
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| 11th Apr 2021 3:02 pm |
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