Member Since: 22 Nov 2023
Location: Dartford
Posts: 7
No crank engine won’t start
Hi all,
I am fairly new into forum things and my first LR Disco3 2008 tdv6 2.7 diesel
Bought the car today, was advertised as non running got it fairly cheap almost for scrap money.
Anyway i don’t know from where to start i am based in Kent near Dartford, don’t have big budget
But for the right price I would like to fix it. Friend of mine will come tomorrow to help me read the codes
Disco is on 160k miles, checked mot history nothing major on previous mots, even the previous owner had mot done just now in October. If someone here would recommend a garage that would look into the car please?
I hope I’ve managed to explain myself, English isn’t my first language so excuse me.
I think something dries the battery as when I went to pick up the car tried to start it there was crank and pressure/he charged the battery beforehand/ now after 5hr delivered at home when turning the key the dash goes black and the noise coming was like 2 live electric cables were making noise.
22nd Nov 2023 2:14 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5040
Could be a simple earth strap issue.(there are three main earth straps) Or, a "dead short" if you battery is being rapidly discharged!!
There is one earth strap from the battery to the body, one on the transfer case to the body, and one from the right engine mount to the chassis behind the cover in the d/s/f wheel arch.
If it's a "dead short" the main culprit could well be the positive cable from the battery which runs just forward of the front diff. Over time the cable can start to wear against the diff housing. And, if it eats far enough through the sheath you will have the positive battery current shorting on the diff. If this were the case it would eat your battery very rapidly as well as being a fire hazard. It's an easy fix but it will likely be the end for your battery!
There are other possibilities too but without codes it's only guesswork. I'd suggest for now you leave the battery disconnected whilst not working on the car. While it's disconnected you could do a quick continuity test if you have a DMM to prove or disprove a "dead short"
Beyond that it would be wise to wait until you have a diagnostic tool in hand to read the codes. Make a note of them before you delete them and post them back here. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
22nd Nov 2023 9:55 am
Markodiboss
Member Since: 22 Nov 2023
Location: Dartford
Posts: 7
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5040
In the first one the battery is too weak and the engine is not turning over as fast as it should. This will through up lot's of "ghost" faults when you plug in the diagnostic tool, as well as any real faults!
In the second one the battery is dead, and what you are hearing is the starter motor solenoid chattering because there's not enough power to engage it fully.
Charge it or get a new one, you'll need to be above 12.3 volts min really, a fully charged battery will be around 12.8v or above.
You might still have an earth strap issue, but you will not be able to tell unless the battery is fully charged.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
22nd Nov 2023 12:10 pm
Markodiboss
Member Since: 22 Nov 2023
Location: Dartford
Posts: 7
Thank you Prof G,
By your expertise from the first video is that a good sign? I mean I know it won’t start even with new battery but does it sound like minor issue or potentially something major, like a need of new engine. Still awaiting for my friend to read the codes.
22nd Nov 2023 12:23 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5040
Well now that you've mentioned it there does sound to be a compression imbalance when you listen to the video. But, that still could just be down to a poor battery.
These engines do suffer from cambelt tensioner failure (oil pump mounting) as well as crank failure, but I thought mentioning it earlier might be premature. You can easily confirm if the tensioner mounting has broken, either by opening the oil filler cap and watching to see if both camshafts on that head are turning when the ignition/starter is turned. Or, by examining the timing belt cover just above the crank pulley for signs of damage (not always visible)yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
22nd Nov 2023 4:46 pm
Markodiboss
Member Since: 22 Nov 2023
Location: Dartford
Posts: 7
Hi Prof G, what could be wrong with this engine, i am thinking of getting it as a donor for the one i have now. https://streamable.com/cv5quz
25th Nov 2023 2:39 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5040
From the way it sounds I'd run a mile from it would be my advice. Besides it's a D4 and if 3.0ltr it won't swap over easily to a 2.7 D3.
Did you find out what's wrong with your D3? Are the cams turning with the starter, and did you get diagnostics on it yet?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
25th Nov 2023 2:48 pm
Markodiboss
Member Since: 22 Nov 2023
Location: Dartford
Posts: 7
Still waiting on my friend to come, we all sick with that flu atm, hopefully tomorrow he pass by to get the readings
25th Nov 2023 3:22 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5040
I suspect you're going to have a very long list of faults logged caused by the weak battery and repeated starting attempts. If you post them here we can evaluate what is relevant and what is not! (scan all the modules!!!)
Check the driver side timing belt and cam chain is OK by watching the cam shafts through the oil cap while turning over the engine on the ignition. This will save you a lot of wasted time if there's a problem there. If you think there is a problem, you could pop off the front timing belt cover and have a look, but the fan has to come out along with heater hoses and a few other bits. 45 mins work or thereabouts.
It is not possible to see passenger side cams or chain, but if there was a problem here it will show up in the faults list
If the belt / tensioner mounting has failed it might be salvageable with a head rebuild. It won't come cheap unless you are able to do it yourself.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
25th Nov 2023 5:08 pm
Markodiboss
Member Since: 22 Nov 2023
Location: Dartford
Posts: 7
Hi Prof G those are the faulty codes , will check again with another obd scanner.
30th Nov 2023 5:43 pm
Markodiboss
Member Since: 22 Nov 2023
Location: Dartford
Posts: 7
Click image to enlarge
Markodiboss wrote:
Still waiting on my friend to come, we all sick with that flu atm, hopefully tomorrow he pass by to get the readings
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If this were the case it would eat your battery very rapidly as well as being a fire hazard. It's an easy fix but it will likely be the end for your battery!
