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A.J.M
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2815
  
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Looking for advice as this problem has me stumped.
54 plate on 181,937 miles. Belts, oil pump and water pump, expansion tank and coolant housing at top of engine changed at 175,345 miles, in June.
Since then, car can’t keep temperatures down when towing or asked to go up a long incline or sit at high speed for more than 4 miles.
Problem wasn’t present before belts and work done.
I’ve bled system several times using guide I got from Robbie nearly 6 years ago.
Heater blows warm with no issues.
Car doesn’t overheat under normal driving but fan does kick in quite often.
Couple of times it’s left a puddle of coolant under car. Source from black valve on expansion tank.
I’ve checked all hoses and all are tight, free from kinks.
Attempted to get car to Peterborough show on Friday towing my 80” but didn’t make 20 miles before temperatures rose up and had to nurse car home.
Coolant level was unchanged when investigated once I returned home as I swapped trailer onto my mates D4 and did the journey in that.
Coolant is clean, full system was flushed May 2017 and all coolant is correct red OAT spec.
I checked temperatures with IID tool but they only rose to 78 and no more, fan speed went from 544 to 987-1090 and rose to nearly 1500 when car was at 72 degrees.
I’m going to get local garage to do coolant sniff test in the morning to see if head gasket but oil cap is clean with no mayo sludge on it, exhaust doesn’t smoke either, engine power is the same and noise is the same. So not sure on that as no obvious signs are present.
Coolant system was pressure checked and only weeped at nearly 2 bar and only from the expansion tank valve.
Could it be a thermostat issue?
Or egr coolers at fault? EGRs have been blanked for 8 years, previous owner did them.
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 18th Sep 2018 6:08 pm |
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L319
Member Since: 14 Dec 2013
Location: Herefordshire
Posts: 2079
 
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There is no expansion tank relief valve , pressure relief is by the filler cap. The part you refer is a bleed screw and should not leak, but that would not explain your overheating issue.
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| 18th Sep 2018 6:31 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10359
 
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well stop the bleed valve leaking.
That has to be a cheap and easy fix to see if it helps
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| 18th Sep 2018 6:52 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20726
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A pressurised system raises the boiling point of the water in the cooling system.
If there is a pressure leak, it will overheat sooner than a normal car
If it was fine beforehand, it does raise the question of a faulty part that was fitted... My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 18th Sep 2018 7:02 pm |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2293
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Is the water pump a genuine LR one , or a decent make at least ? D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
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| 18th Sep 2018 7:57 pm |
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lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
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I was once told by an old alectrician if the fault wasnt there befoe you changed/fixed whatever, you have done something wrong.
That has got me out of trouble so many times its unreal!
On my daily route practically every landrover i have ever owned (lots!) takes 4/5 miles to get the stat to fully open, maybe theres a clue in the 4 miles you are covering?
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| 18th Sep 2018 8:03 pm |
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A.J.M
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2815
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Water pump and the expansion tank came from AF.
Not sure on coolant housing at top of engine.
What would cause the system to be pressurising?
I have been mulling wither a part is faulty as it’d never given coolant issues till this year when thr hiusing started to weep.
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| 18th Sep 2018 8:28 pm |
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M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8069
 
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As been already said pressurised water will go above boiling point(100degreesC) before boiling.
Simple test of the cylinder head gasket is fill the water expansion tank full, brim it, leave the cap off, start the engine and watch for bubbles rising out of the expansion tank, any bubbles and a gasket has failed, remove water/coolant to correct level after the test.
Could you have got the timing belt a tooth out? Thermostats are usually fail safe, but.....a new one would eliminate it. Does the heater blow hot? - first sign of an air lock. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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| 18th Sep 2018 8:54 pm |
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A.J.M
Member Since: 31 Oct 2009
Location: Carluke
Posts: 2815
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Done the test M3DPO, no bubbles from the system.
I didn’t fit the parts, they were done at a garage.
Heater doesn’t blow warm till engine has heat in it, as it would normally.
I haven’t changed the thermostat and it’s being considered.
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| 18th Sep 2018 10:18 pm |
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M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8069
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If you didn’t fit the parts I would take it back to who did and tell them to sort it as it did not boil before the work was done. It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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| 19th Sep 2018 8:58 am |
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Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1787
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^^^^^ As he says 
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| 19th Sep 2018 2:57 pm |
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