Member Since: 17 Dec 2011
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 51
Great thread , I would have never managed to replace the drain without having read this first , I now have a dry footwell and a left hand covered in plasters ! LR must employ child labour to fit the CJB , what a job !
6th Apr 2018 11:19 pm
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 257
Thanks. Must be a good post as input it on in 2014 and 4 years later people are still thanking me. I still remember spending a whole day just trying to work out how the multiplugs were attached.
7th Apr 2018 7:41 am
mid-devon-disco-3
Member Since: 01 Apr 2018
Location: mid devon
Posts: 7
Just about to tackle this tomoz morn as my passenger foot well is soaking.. Great little how to. Very useful..
I even looked in the land rover manual and couldn't find any thing.
Thanks mate
7th Apr 2018 9:30 pm
z4cAtS
Member Since: 05 May 2011
Location: M4 J13
Posts: 137
Well that was fun, big hands don't help either.
One thing I found that made things easier was to put the sunroof end in a piece of garden hose before pulling it down.
This then gave me the exact path to pull the new pipe back up.
Thanks for the how-to.(Remap, EGRs Blanked,Silicon I/C hose) from BAS, (Torque Convertor, Compressor, FL Wishbones, Alternator) by WD, Belts by Newbury4x4, Megaflush+extra cooler by GRGB, Diff+Transfer oils, ARB Bushes, Fuel filter, Fixed Towbar, Remote FBH.
The 'z' is silent
11th May 2018 6:57 am
Lolabear
Member Since: 28 May 2017
Location: Midlands
Posts: 19
Hats off .. what a great post, I had no choice but to remove the fuse box replace the pipe all the way to sunroof tray. The rubber elbow was kinked as it past through bulk head and wouldn’t drain at all . The drivers is a little easier to do, but now I need to do the rears , complete back to the roof tray as I believe they run uphill as some have suggested and are kinked. Headliner down I’m afraid. I have to vent how bad these tubes are made! The Landy designers must of fell about laughing when they chose the tube rubber! You only have to look at it and it kinks , an extra 10p at the design stage and I feel we would have dry trucks ... still love the motor tho... thanks for the description on how to tackle this horrible job!
2nd Jun 2018 11:09 am
marktwo
Member Since: 12 Aug 2014
Location: Alton
Posts: 2
CJB removal
Hi all followed all the tips on here, job went well, apart from losing the central locking, key fob, electric windows, sunroof and maybe more! I have removed every plug and refitted them, I now have my electrics back but have a transmission fault and a parking brake fault! Has anyone any ideas as to which plug or experienced this before?
13th Aug 2018 7:15 pm
marktwo
Member Since: 12 Aug 2014
Location: Alton
Posts: 2
CJB issues
Hi All, Problems resolved, it turns out the rear plug was hanging out, it seems when you realign the cjb after struggling to get the plugs in the loom then hooks over the release clip so you remove the plug without realising. The wires were purple, if they are close by remember to tuck them in tight!!
Is this a job for a robot with AI......
14th Aug 2018 8:51 am
vanpeebles
Member Since: 20 Mar 2018
Location: North East
Posts: 150
I had to shuffle the order of the cable/plugs around, as I must have crossed them over, while gaining access which made it a lot harder to clip them back into the CJB. It was just ever slightly too tight, and the levers wouldn't clip them in.
We left the old hose in both sides, taped the new hose to that and pulled it through. It also helped to get someone to poke their little finger through the drain holes from the outside, while the other person pushed the new elbow over your finger from the inside.
For the glove box pins I just edged them over a bit at a time using a tiny watch screw driver, I didn't need new ones.
Other things to watch out for is getting the pin on the pillar trim back in the right place for the seat belt adjuster, so it goes back on it's own.
14th Aug 2018 11:38 am
NotTooMuddy
Member Since: 08 Apr 2018
Location: 🇬🇧 West London
Posts: 18
Hello All. Appreciate this is a fairly old thread but I also have the same problem on my 2014 d4. I’ve identified the problem by using coloured water as someone else also did (primitive but effective!) but I must more worried about how government dry out the carpets and underlay - they’re absolutely soaking! any tips?. Cheers.
15th Aug 2018 9:23 pm
vanpeebles
Member Since: 20 Mar 2018
Location: North East
Posts: 150
I took the drivers seat out and a large chunk of the carpet, then hoovered all the water up.
15th Aug 2018 9:31 pm
Bungle
Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Wanborough
Posts: 254
Front seats out (watch it, they are heavy!), middle row out, then lift the carpet a few inches and vacuum the gallons that will be under there, then doors open in the sunshine for a few days to dry it out (or doors closed and run a dehumidifier). I think LR procedure is to remove the carpet completely to dry it!
16th Aug 2018 11:17 am
avalp
Member Since: 07 Sep 2013
Location: London
Posts: 8
I am in the process of replacing the drain on the passenger side but need some advice.
Any ideas how I remove the green connector at the bottom of the CJB as I don’t see any tabs to push?
Also should I unscrew the nuts and drop the CJB down a little before removing the front connectors or remove the connectors first and then the bolts?
Regards
Al
29th Oct 2019 4:29 pm
avalp
Member Since: 07 Sep 2013
Location: London
Posts: 8
Finally managed to take out the CJB, fit the new drain elbow, test the drains and refit everything. As everyone mention the two connectors at the back are an absolute nightmare. Perseverance is definitely the key.
Some tips:
- disconnect battery before starting
- when removing if you take the two nuts off it allows you to pull the CJB away and down slightly so you can remove the green push connector easily
- getting the new elbow into the hole in the chassis is also a pain as there’s not much room
- I couldn’t get the elbow to go into the existing hose as the pipe end had become hard so I removed the cover on the A-pillar and fed the new hose up
- I wasn’t confident in removing the headliner so I cut the existing hose at the A-pillar and connected it to the new hose pushed up with a push connector (bit of sealant to ensure no leaks), I did think of putting the push connector at the bottom but there isn’t much room to manoeuvre there
- it is probably obvious to others but I’ll mention it anyway, when re-connecting the 6 connectors to the CJB you should do so with the clamp open and once seated then clamp down
- as mentioned on another chat removing the three relays at the bottom right of the CJB gives you another 1 cm of wiggle room to get the back connectors on
Picture of perished elbow and the replacement:
Picture of new elbow in it’s place:
I also considered at one stage doing away with the elbow and feeding the hose directly into the chassis hole but didn’t do so as it kinks the hose so would cause problems again later.
Finally after reconnecting the battery you hold your breath while starting the car. And when it does so it makes it all worthwhile.
Would I do it again? Yes if I had to.
Would I recommend others doing it? Only if you have patience and perseverance as getting the back connectors on the CJB is the hardest part of this job.
Regards
Al
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30th Oct 2019 7:54 pm
Ben4
Member Since: 28 Apr 2017
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 934
Having just done this job myself I know what a complete PITA it is!
not sure I would have left that white spigot in place as it restricts the diameter of flow considerably - on mine I think the black end fitting fitted inside the down hose pipe.
well done getting it sorted.
Think my carpets are nearly dry again now formerly Disco3Ben
2016 D4, Santorini Black
2007 D3, Black - sold
31st Oct 2019 9:29 pm
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1521
Thanks for sharing that detail and tips to get this job done. In the process of ordering a few bits in preparation to maybe have a go myself. If I do it I'm planning on using a push fir pipe connector as in the video on you tube. I'm informed the glove box hinge pins are also a pain, so I'm preparing a few bits to ease those out without breaking.
One last sanity check question. Is there absolutely no way to get to the pipe at the vent without taking the CJB right out? I can push a piece of strimmer line through that way and see it appear inside the bulkhead so I know there's a hole around the elbow or it's become disconnected at that point. I am therefore wondering if all it needs is the two ends pushed back together again hence my question. If I need to renew it, I am wondering about feeding the new hose in from the vent grill to see if I can pull it through and connect it up to the existing one.
Hopelessly optimistic I know
CheersGary
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any tips?. Cheers.
