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Passenger side sunroof drain tube replacement access problem
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avalp
 


Member Since: 07 Sep 2013
Location: London
Posts: 8

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3

Hi Gary_P

I think you would struggle to make such a rigid pipe do a 90 degree bend up towards the A-pillar as soon as it enters the bodywork from the air vent. I suspect you’ll have to take out the CJB to gain access assuming that a D4 is the same as the D3 (from your profile I’m guessing you have a D4).

Also on the D3 models there is no air vent on the passenger side so I had to remove part of the wheel arch lining and feel my way up to the spot where I expected to find the nipple end to see if it had disintegrated.

Good luck!

Disco3Ben - I did think the spigot would restrict the flow but there seemed to be no other way of joining the elbow to the pipe as it wouldn’t fit over the pipe like the old one and it was too large to go into the pipe. I tested the new fitting by pouring water from the sunroof tray and it was peeing like it had never done before.

Regards
Al
  
Post #209663731st Oct 2019 11:51 pm
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Gary_P
 


Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1505

Ukraine 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

Thanks for the reply Al.
Yes 2015 D4. Iv'e had the wheel arch liner on mine down to see if I could see up to where the drain pops through into the side vent, but it didn't look as though doing that provided any access. Perhaps I missed it. If I could get at it that way I may be able to rejoin it. Have I missed being able to see it from under the wheel arch? It's only just over 4 years old so I'm sceptical it's actually rotted, but it's possible.

Cheers
 Gary
-------------------------------------------

Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY 
 
Post #20966411st Nov 2019 12:19 am
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mark the spark
 


Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: southampton
Posts: 2475

2014 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 XXV LE Auto Causeway GreyDiscovery 4

i was sceptical as well gary as im MY14 so i got a cheap boroscope off of ebay £25 (the type that you can connect via wifi to your phone (brilliant bit of kit)

with the boroscope up behind the cjb i could clearly see the split at the elbow knuckle

in my opinion even the new one is very thin walled at the point of the 90 degree knuckle and i suspect that they can tear as much as rot if at anytime you have the internal A pillars off and disturb the downtubes as i cant see them rotting in just 5 years but you never know.

this is my upcoming weekend next job i just cant believe how much water is in my footwell !!!!

i have rubber mats in mine so suspect it has been leaking for a long time
 MY05 SE D3 Manual my first LR what a car
MY10 HSE D4 auto
MY14 XXV more buttons than the spaceshuttle 
 
Post #20980877th Nov 2019 8:54 am
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mark the spark
 


Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: southampton
Posts: 2475

2014 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 XXV LE Auto Causeway GreyDiscovery 4

well just completed the job and thankfully she fired up with no warning lights Very Happy

the best tips i can add to anyone doing this are :

Its not as hard a job as it sounds but you definitely need patience and time and need to have good dexterity
The back CJB connectors are the hard bit particularly the left one (viewed from inside the car)
the easiest way to get it located is to tie a piece of strong string around the connector latch then whilst keeping pressure on the back of the connector with one finger pull the string to pull down and close the latch with your other hand if you dont hold the connector it just pulls out. locating the connectors themselves is done by feel alone but once youve seen the port and the connector its not overly hard just fiddly

starting from the position of all trim panels and glove box removed i reckon i could have done the job in an hour if id used the string trick straightaway . i fought that F** connector for an hour on its own till reading this tip on line !!!!

my elbow on MY14 had a 10mm split on the knuckle even tho it was the new style so i think even the later models will be prone to this issue as imo the rubber on the new is still too thin on the knuckle
 MY05 SE D3 Manual my first LR what a car
MY10 HSE D4 auto
MY14 XXV more buttons than the spaceshuttle 
 
Post #20983518th Nov 2019 12:14 pm
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Gary_P
 


Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1505

Ukraine 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

Thanks for sharing your experiences Mark.
Did you replace the whole length right up to the sunroof or just connect a new piece at the end of the pipe ? If the latter what method did you use?
I’m still working on building up courage to do it, so all tips are useful.
Cheers
 Gary
-------------------------------------------

Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY 
 
Post #20983918th Nov 2019 1:45 pm
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Mikeyb
 


Member Since: 08 Nov 2016
Location: Maldon, Essex
Posts: 515

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3

12mm (if I recall correctly) push fit pipe connector

https://www.caravanaccessoryshop.co.uk/pro...-12mm/1835

plenty cheaper on Fleabay
 Not such a Disco Newbie now!
IID BT 
 
Post #20983938th Nov 2019 1:51 pm
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mark the spark
 


Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: southampton
Posts: 2475

2014 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 XXV LE Auto Causeway GreyDiscovery 4

the elbow pulls off the new pipe and just push fits onto the existing pipe you dont need a connector

its a little tight and mine left the white inner spigot attached to the downpipe so i just pulled the rubber elbow off my new one and pushed it on the spigot one in situ job done Thumbs Up

its a bit fiddly as your upper torso is twisted almost upside down with your head stuffed in the footwell but its doable

theres not a lot of room to be fiddling about with cutting pipe and connectors under there and the pipe is quite deep into the dash so if i wanted to go the connector route id suggest putting it behind the A pillar trim and pulling a new pipe with elbow up from below but thats a bit 4 handed

the good vids on you tube are very useful but most are on left hand drive so they working more naturally right handed , on the UK right hand drive your kind of working more cross handed so its a bit more awkward
 MY05 SE D3 Manual my first LR what a car
MY10 HSE D4 auto
MY14 XXV more buttons than the spaceshuttle 
 
Post #20983978th Nov 2019 2:08 pm
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Gary_P
 


Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1505

Ukraine 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

Well I did my passenger side drain hose yesterday with help from this forum and Youtube video - link below.


A big shout out to mark the spark on this forum who provided a lot of extra detail, support and encouragement. I was pretty uncomfortable (in all possible ways) about doing it, but with the advice from forum members and the video clip on You tube I thought I would give it a go, rather than open what I felt was likely to be a blank cheque. I did try two local, very good, garages but both were rather vague and the replacement didn't ring any bells with them (although clearing them with an airline did).

I wanted to share my experiences and learnings as I had a lot of pretty basic questions when researching the 'how to'.

I had a soaking wet footwell and there was no water draining out at the bottom of the car. Using strimmer line from the vent end of the drain hose I could see it appearing under the footwell so knew there was a hole, but wasn't sure where. To protect the car whilst waiting for parts I tapes around the sunroof to stop further water ingress. The tip I was given here was to use electrical tape rather than gaffer tape. Much cleaner when you take it off.

A few things I would highlight for anyone referencing this in future:
1. My car is a June 2015 car (MY16 ). It is less than 4 1/2 years old. I was surprised my hose had gone already. Drain hoses are approx £20 each (for the whole thing - sunroof to the outlet at the vent).
2.You cannot get to the drain hose elbow from the wheel arch by removing the wheel arch liner (I tried!)
3. Replacement on my 2015 D4 is same basic approach as D3 - remove trim panels and glove box, disconnect batteries (I did both), leave 45 mins, take off CJB, but there are a few minor differences.
4. I took the advice from mark the spark and removed my trim panels the day before. With short days this is useful advice. It also makes sure you are in a good frame of mind to start the actual repair job, having not fought with panels and glove box bins immediately beforehand. (Great tip mark!)
Something that I didn't see mention was the need to remove the bonnet opening handle before removing the side trim panel. You'll need to put it back on temporarily after you remove the trim panel (torx20 required).
5. Don't forget to open your sunroof, move the seat right back and open the bonnet before you start. You don't want to wake the car up again by opening the car to open the bonnet. I waited 45 mins after doing this, then disconnected both main and stop/start batteries live terminals and then waited a further 45 mins. The doors will open after the battery is disconnected, but I'm reliably informed that the boot does not.
6. My CJB had an extra connector plugged in at the very bottom of the CJB. These bottom connectors have a small central pinch clip in the middle of the back edge (facing towards the bulkhead) which needs to be depressed for these to come out. These are different sizes so cannot be pressed into the wrong connection when putting it back together. My CJB had 3 connectors on the front (larger blue at the bottom). The references to pulling the release catches up and down on the video were a bit confusing. The top two connectors on the front release by pulling downwards towards the carpet and the bottom by pushing upwards towards the glove box (if it were there).
7. The trickiest part of this job, as everyone has stated, is the removal and replacement of the two rear connectors. Once the front and bottom connectors are off, release the bottom of the CJB by removing the 10mm nuts and let it pull forward off the two bolts. This allows you to get your hand up the back of the CJB. These two back connectors have release catches that push upwards (away from you as you lie on the floor). In the closed position they are located half way down the connector and stick out from the back. Note there is a third socket halfway down the length of the CJB at the back that is unused. Seems obvious but when you are putting it back together by feel alone it's helpful to remember this.
8. To get the CJB out I had to remove an additional connector with wires that ran immediately under the it and connected to a connector right at the point the footwell met the bulkhead. It has two, thickish, wires going into it (one red and one bluey purple with a brown stripe). These wires ran immediately under my CJB and stopped it from dropping down to remove it.
9. The end of the hose at the vent was the new wider open end, same as replacement and not the non return valve that is noted as rotting that is typical on D3s. I found my elbow to be split so took the advice of mark and removed the elbow from my new hose and pushed it onto the existing spiggott on the old hose . A hairdryer to soften the rubber helped get it on as there's not much room to apply pressure. I poked the end of the nipple on the hose through the through the hole at the vent from inside then pulled the rest of the nipple through from the vent end. It pretty much pops into place.
10. After the hose is done, it's worth pushing the thick loom right near it ( it has a white retaining clip to attach it to body) to one side and into the bulkhead a fraction to try to create as much room as possible for when your hand is up the back trying to re-latch the rear connectors.
11. After you have done the elbow, when putting the rear connectors back in, leave the board loose feel you way up and if you have smallish hands like me, you'll be able to place in and pull down the latch. You can cock these a little by pulling them slightly down before placing them in their location which makes it easier to find them to pull them down. Re-latching these has been a problem for many, and although it didn't work for me, you can try a piece of twine around the latch so you can pull down on it with one hand from underneath the CJB whilst holding the connector in place with the other.

Picture of my drain elbow is below. It looks more like a tear than rot to me . I probably damaged it more by pulling it off, but I do wonder whether it was damaged when it was installed. Can't see how it would tear otherwise.

Good luck


[/i]
 Gary
-------------------------------------------

Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY 
 
Post #209900611th Nov 2019 2:54 pm
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mark the spark
 


Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: southampton
Posts: 2475

2014 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 XXV LE Auto Causeway GreyDiscovery 4

great write up gary and glad i could assist

i agree with your thoughts on them being damaged on install as all the rubber appeared in good condition to me and i think mine was torn / damaged more than rotted

my other theory is that the hard internal white spigot pierces the soft rubber on the point of the bend if the down pipe gets moved around eg windscreen replacements
 MY05 SE D3 Manual my first LR what a car
MY10 HSE D4 auto
MY14 XXV more buttons than the spaceshuttle 
 
Post #209916412th Nov 2019 10:03 am
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Dazz360
 


Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

Downhiller wrote:
For anyone, like me, who is nervous about removing the apparently tightly fitted and hard to access Central Junction Box (CJB) to get behind it so that you can push a replacement sunroof drain tube through the inner wing, I've found the guidance on this forum to be brilliant. However, some knowledge is sometimes assumed. It took me ages to work out how the Central Junction Box (CJB) came out.

Obviously, to get at it you need to take out the glove box lid. After dropping the lid Its only held in with 2 plastic hinges. The pegs through the hinges need to be tapped out and replaced ( they break when they come out). I found a right angled pair of small pliers particularly useful to do this.

There are only 2 easily accessible nuts (10mm) that need to be undone to remove the CJB. They are at the bottom of the CJB. The top is held in with pegs that protrude from the top of the CJB.

Once the CJB drops, you need to disconnect 6 multi plugs. You absolutely cannot get into the area where the tube is going to go without doing this. Not unless you are Darth Vader or Yoda. 3 are on the front, 2 are on the back and one is on the bottom. Again it took me yonks to work out how these multi plugs came out. Land Rover have learned their lessons of the passed and have made the multi plugs in the D3 bomb proof! The front ones on the CJB are held on with those black plastic hinge type clamps. Don't spend ages simply pulling at these.... Big Cry like I did. Look at where the hing is and simply unhinge them. This assists with the unclamping and sliding movement. Might seem obvious to some but it wasnt to me. Embarassed remove the bottom blue one first as it is the easiest to access and you'll see how they work. The rear ones are of a similar design but much smaller. Put your hand behind the CJB and you will feel 2 multi plugs held in with plastic hinged clamps. They come out very easily.

Once you've disconnected everything it drops out. The sunroof drain pipe hole in the inner wing is just behind where the CJB was and about half way down the footprint that the CJB would have filled if it had been there. Scary to think that so much water has been coming through this and right next to the main CJB and all those multi plugs. After doing the new drain tube (thats the easy bit!!!) putting the CJB back in is easy if you remember that the multi plugs are colour coded with the red plugs to (Port) - right and green plugs to (starboard) - left. They obviously knew there was going to be a lot of water in there at some point!!! Rolling with laughter The bottom one is even blue as it is closest to your soaking wet carpet! Maybe an in-house Land Rover joke they played there or maybe an engineer knew the sunroof drain tube was a crap design but none would listen to him so he applied a nautical colour coding system for the electrics!

The new drain tube is a much more solid design and i highly recommend replacing them. The problems with mine started when i trimmed the end of the tube as per recommendations from others to unblock the end. This obviously began a perishing process which eventually caused it to fail.


Red port left
Green starboard right
 Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days) 
 
Post #209928112th Nov 2019 8:48 pm
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Gary_P
 


Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1505

Ukraine 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

Dry carpets despite heavy rain so fix has definitely done the job. Thought I would spend 10 mins putting the trim panels back in but wasn't to be. Spent an hour and a half failing.
Any tips for getting the panel back on that fixes to the wing and goes around the bonnet release mechanism? It's so tight with the panel under the glove box that there's just no room to get it in over the bonnet release (yes I did take the handle off !). My under glove box panel (the one with the footwell light in it) is touching the top of the bonnet release, it does move up a little but however hard I push up there's just not enough room to get the other panel over the top of the bonnet release and underneath it. What am I doing wrong?
Cant believe it can be so hard.
Thanks again
 Gary
-------------------------------------------

Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY 
 
Post #209938313th Nov 2019 4:15 pm
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Gary_P
 


Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1505

Ukraine 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

Its this panel


 Gary
-------------------------------------------

Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY 
 
Post #209938713th Nov 2019 4:30 pm
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Gary_P
 


Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1505

Ukraine 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

Long story short I got the panel back in after getting some further help. I put the kick plate in first then the underglove box panel after. Couldn’t get the under glove box panel to line up properly that way before but watched how it came out and wriggled it back in the same way. This is different to the order I took them off (I followed the You Tube video).
Cheers
 Gary
-------------------------------------------

Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY 
 
Post #209987515th Nov 2019 2:40 pm
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Puncture
 


Member Since: 28 Aug 2018
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 85

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Unknown ColourDiscovery 3

Hi All,
I too have a sodden passenger footwell so will be definitely giving this a go! I've had a read through the comments but cannot see any links to parts which may need replacing (elbows? Pins? Joints? Tubing? Clips?) - Could anyone furnish me with the LR part numbers and/or give me an idea on what bits to order in preparation? Cheers, Sam
  
Post #21029251st Dec 2019 12:02 pm
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Gary_P
 


Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1505

Ukraine 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

Obviously depends where /how the water is coming in.
This is what I ordered (see below) The elbow seems to be the most common issue. There are a couple of simple steps first. You should try unblocking the drain with strimmer line from the sunroof and wing vent end as a first step and check the end of drain in the wing vent to see if it’s rotted/closed as there’s a non return valve on D3 drains that can close up.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sunroof-Front-D...1438.l2649

Plenty of info and support on this forum, so let us know what you find, how it’s going.
Cheers
 Gary
-------------------------------------------

Discovery 4 HSE 2016MY 
 
Post #21029301st Dec 2019 12:28 pm
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