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Rear Brake Pipe corrosion and leak
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Spinney
 


Member Since: 18 Aug 2013
Location: DEVON
Posts: 48

England 
Rear Brake Pipe corrosion and leak

Sudden loss in braking going to work yesterday. Diagnosed as rear brake pipe leak and corrosion. Being told by local garage who are very good that the pipes do not look repairable and LR recommends body off etc....

Should I go down the route of doing a "proper job" on the 10 year old Disco and replace all the pipework as necessary with no additional joints what is the likely cost?

Any suggestion for a decent 4x4 specialist in the Plymouth region who could help would be appreciated as I suspect LR dealer cost would be prohibitive.
  
Post #202195624th Jan 2019 6:35 pm
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highlands
 


Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5085

Ukraine 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

Each of the D3s I've had needed the rear brake pipe sections replaced.
Cut in above adjacent to the centre exhaust box as per dozens of posts on the forum.
I'd be amazed if the pipes aren't suitable to be joined in that location.
A properly flared joint should not be a problem whatsoever.

Last time I did it took under 2 hours for both sides (recommend getting new rear flexis and small rigid pipe while you're at it) including a bit of tidying up of other bits while I was there.

Job is slightly trickier with rear aircon equipped cars, just in terms of feeding through new pipe.
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Post #202195824th Jan 2019 6:41 pm
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ibruceuk
 


Member Since: 20 Mar 2018
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 105

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

What he said...

Piece of cake really, pipes above the exhaust heat shield will be fine to cut and flare (it's lovely warm and dry up there)
  
Post #202208324th Jan 2019 10:44 pm
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Spinney
 


Member Since: 18 Aug 2013
Location: DEVON
Posts: 48

England 

highlands wrote:
Last time I did it took under 2 hours for both sides (recommend getting new rear flexis and small rigid pipe while you're at it) including a bit of tidying up of other bits while I was there..


Thanks.

Where would the small rigid pipe fit in?
  
Post #202208524th Jan 2019 10:51 pm
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ibruceuk
 


Member Since: 20 Mar 2018
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 105

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

You have the normal rigid pipe that runs front to back (the one that rusts!) and then there is a flexi where it goes from the body to the rear arms and then onto a small rigid pipe along the arm before another flexi to the caliper.

Look here... https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/rear-bra...2790-c.asp

Part numbers LR021678 & LR021679
  
Post #202208824th Jan 2019 11:04 pm
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Spinney
 


Member Since: 18 Aug 2013
Location: DEVON
Posts: 48

England 

Thanks all.

Just spoke with mechanic who says that the brake pipes are corroded all the way to the turbo and above. He would I think understandably be unhappy to repair.

So - second opinion or call Roger Young in Saltash?
  
Post #202217025th Jan 2019 9:44 am
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ibruceuk
 


Member Since: 20 Mar 2018
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 105

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

I'd get a second opinion, I've never heard of corrosion up that far to be honest even on much older, scruffier and more abused vehicles. The corrosion on brake pipes tends to occur in areas that are constantly moist open to the elements (and salt etc) and where there is something that chafes a little like the clips to expose the bare metal.

Anywhere there is heat tends to be pretty well protected.

I do stand to be corrected though.
  
Post #202217325th Jan 2019 9:50 am
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Spinney
 


Member Since: 18 Aug 2013
Location: DEVON
Posts: 48

England 

Thanks.

That's the interesting thing - apart from road salt she has not been abused.

Just bad luck I suppose.
  
Post #202218625th Jan 2019 10:24 am
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highlands
 


Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5085

Ukraine 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Java BlackDiscovery 3

I'd get second opinion before citing bad luck.
Unless you mean where it has gone in which case it is a matter of time with all D3s in a UK climate.
Thankfully, the copper replacement, if you cut in rather than replace entirely, will not suffer such a fate again.
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Post #202219525th Jan 2019 10:34 am
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robsa
 


Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: kent uk
Posts: 14

2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

Hi all trawling through posts trying to understand wtf happened to the ole gal today... low level brake fluid light came on . Aimed needed a top up. But 10 miles on way to home. Engine died and would not start. Only warning light is low level fluid. Yes it has blown a tear brake line... my as is . Is the a safety circuit that cuts the engine if it sees low low level in reservoir.
Thanks lads
  
Post #206782311th Jul 2019 5:51 pm
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bjwhite
 


Member Since: 17 Aug 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 29

United States 2006 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3

Coming back to this. So...to do the full line from the rear to the block on the firewall, is it really a body off job for that? Doesn't really seem to be when I looked at it. More about feeding the replacement line up through.

LR may recommend a body off job, but is it really required? I have the full genuine LR pipe from the rear axle to the front of the vehicle.
  
Post #207219929th Jul 2019 10:36 pm
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Bungle
 


Member Since: 07 Apr 2015
Location: Wanborough
Posts: 254

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

I wouldn't use the LR genuine steel brake pipe, there are better options out there that will not corrode (Copper/Nickel). If you cut it and put a joint in then it can be changed without taking the body off relatively easily, you will find most LR specialists will have done loads of them as it is a common problem.
  
Post #207224830th Jul 2019 8:00 am
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bjwhite
 


Member Since: 17 Aug 2011
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 29

United States 2006 LR3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Chawton WhiteLR3

With all due respect, that wasn’t my question. Smile
  
Post #207241430th Jul 2019 8:36 pm
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Gareth
Site Moderator 


Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26683

United Kingdom 

I think if you do want to fit an original part, and not have to bend it in the process, you do have to lift the body off the chassis.

That’s what LR say is necessary. I’m not sure if anyone has ever proved them wrong.
  
Post #207242330th Jul 2019 9:04 pm
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oggy_oggy
 


Member Since: 06 Apr 2019
Location: Gothenburg
Posts: 21

Sweden 2010 Discovery 4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Auto Unknown ColourDiscovery 4

a question to anyone who has done this job replacing the rear sections:

did you remove any bits for easier access to the pipes? Im a bit concerned about getting the new pipe in place. which way to feed from; front or back?

did you start by removing the existing brake line and use that as a template to bend a new pipe? or just started feeding pipe from one end and bend it "in place" ?

im planning to cut somewere where the pipe is straight, above the exhaust heatshield, and run copper-nickle pipes all the way to the flexibles.

Best Regards
Oscar
  
Post #212939419th Mar 2020 10:00 am
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