Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6538
Rear lower control arms... and a bit more
I was wondering about the funny vibrating metallic sounds and the occasional clunking in the rear the other day and took the car to one of the local indys. Funny that this didn’t bother in the winter when the bushes weren’t loose.
Their diagnosis was that the left rear control arm bushes were shot to , the right rear LCA bushes looked quite bad (but hadn’t failed) and both front LCAs would probably last this summer. Front LCAs have been changed approximately 90k km ago, rest are most likely originals so approx. 12-13 years old.
As an immediate remedy they suggested replacement of both rear LCAs instead of just the failed bushes. I was ok with that since getting the bushes out doesn’t seem to be the easiest thing. I’m also assuming (as they were, too) that the bolts are in such shape that they need to be cut.
Seems all of Finland is out of genuine rear LCAs so they’re back-ordered and expected to arrive in a few weeks time from somewhere in the UK...
I also had drop links as spares (didn’t get around to installing them when the front and rear ARB bushes were changed..) which they kindly agreed to change at the same time.
Now comes the question:
As I already need to change rear LCAs, and it’s probably a good idea to have the front LCAs done at the same time, would it be smarter to change all suspension related rubber front and back at this time?
In other words replace:
- rear LCA (must be replaced)
- front LCA
- rear UCA
- front UCA
- Rear upper and lower knuckle (hub) bushes
- Rear toe links (Panhard rods)
- Front drop links (stabilizer links which I already have)
- Rear drop links (ditto)
I’ll be using LR or OEM quality (like Lemförder) for the parts..
Does anything else come to mind? I did a search here for what has been done in the past and it seems some people change only the mandatory parts while some have changed them all. Seemed a bit more budget related than due to a quantifiable technical reason, perhaps? I was thinking I’ll theoretically save something on not getting an alignment several times while my capital expenditures naturally would increase right now. Also I guess there are some hours to be saved by doing everything all at once (their rate is 103 eur/h).
13th May 2018 9:14 am
Dan_NL
Member Since: 19 Sep 2010
Location: world
Posts: 1213
I have a 2006. After all the suspension/bushing stuff in 2016, I replaced the multibelt, oilpump, waterpump,
airtank for the suspension, spanner/turn wheels and all brake tubes/pipes in 2017. Together around € 7000, -.
The multibelt has to be replaced every 163.000km OR 7 yrs, so again after 14yrs in 2019 for you...
If I were you I would do the 'maths' and decide if you want to 'plot along' as, once you invested all this
money, you're stuck. Evn is your engine fails [ 10k] , or the autobox [ 6k ]...
I now face an increas of the roadtax from € 3000 to € 3500 per year, and a D3 I can not sell to anyone
due to that... ..and I drive 8000km yearly if I don't go to Portugal by car..
13th May 2018 3:27 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6538
The engine related things that you mentioned are relevant for a diesel.... I’ve got a petrol.
Compressor and tank have been replaced in 2013, no issues there.
The question was really only about suspension rather than whether having an old, used car is a smart thing not.
13th May 2018 5:26 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1772
As you are in a cold climate where ice and snow are relevant I would think it prudent to do the lot but I would do the maths first. That is cost versus benefits and length of time you will keep it.
16th May 2018 7:19 am
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6538
Getting them all done next week.
31st May 2018 3:41 am
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6538
In the end I didn't get all of the items done as originally planned, instead got a lot of other things done
- rear lower carrier arms on both sides
- rear lower knuckle bushes on both sides
- spindle rods on both sides
- tie rods on both sides
- front and rear drop links
- a bolt on the front wishbone
What is most important is the car feels like new again. All clunking and knocking is gone. 8)
Alignment before and after
Click image to enlarge
13th Jun 2018 1:25 pm
Dan_NL
Member Since: 19 Sep 2010
Location: world
Posts: 1213
@kajtzu.
Exactly my opinion too ! Ihad these done in november 2016 when my car had done 285.000 km's.
Recently we had a open day at the dealers I had the chance to drive all JLR cars around the same route over a public road,
from horse kart track to motorway and everything in between.
What struck me was NO car drove comparable to my D3. Nearest came the RRS SDV6, because it steers direct and precise and listens to the throttle.
Second came a F-Pace petrol, which is both in steering and throttle response less agile, but still good. Imagine that I liked my ride comfort and my steering
and my D3's throttle response [ remapped to 240HP and 520nm ], above the qualities of a € 180.000 brand new Range Rover SDV8....
So the aim of the day was to sell some cars. My conclusion was : why spend if you already drive the best and not depreciate a penny anymore...
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