Bardley wrote:

It seems that they’re gone. Thanks for that Manual upload a few posts back- very good of you.

Next job is chassis wire brush, black chassis paint on the rusty welds, Waxoyl Clear..
It’ll need front discs and Pads at the end of the summer, then EPB shoes.

I’d really like my timed climate turning on.

Bardley wrote:

Changed the rear prop shaft this afternoon, having had vibrations at about 55~65mph.
The bolts were worryingly loose at the front, and didn’t have the lock tabs bent over..🤨🔩.
The rear were tight, but again not anywhere near the torque setting or an issue to undo as reported on here.

The one thing that is worth mentioning is the centre bush/rubber mount. This was not as worn as I’d thought when I examined it on the car. There was up/down movement in the rubber. The OE GKN replacement had a fair amount of movement too.
The main defect and worn areas on the old unit were the UJ’s. The rear one (Diff end) was very notch and could best be described as having three positions. It would click thro’ as it was moved. This was evident in both planes of its movement.
The centre unit was also clearly stiff and nowhere near the new one in feel as it was also moved.
The front had a notchy arc, tho’ not like the rear.

The job took about 35mins. On a ramp.

Bardley wrote:

The bolts were worryingly loose at the front, and didn’t have the lock tabs bent over..🤨🔩.

Bardley wrote:

I used the E11 long spanner for the front, and a socket for the rear with a 1/2” drive bar initially, then ratchet.

Rear needed an E12 or E14 socket, and not too much effort as I said. If yours are tight, then the higher you have the car will make getting an extension bar on easier.

Do you need the socket set AND a ring spanner set for this job or just sockets???