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jmutts
Member Since: 08 Oct 2017
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2
  
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Yes, I split out one wire from the switched side of the cigarette lighter relay into two, each with their own inline fuse.
Each of the new fuses replaces the 17 and 31 fuses (both of which are 20A) from the CJB, as they lead to the two doors. 17 being Rear Right, and 31 being Rear Left.
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 22nd Jul 2019 11:53 pm |
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Nh850R
Member Since: 22 Jul 2019
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 3
  
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Jmutts thank you for your help, I will let you know how I get on 👍
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| 23rd Jul 2019 7:17 am |
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Nh850R
Member Since: 22 Jul 2019
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 3
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jmutts wrote:Yes, I split out one wire from the switched side of the cigarette lighter relay into two, each with their own inline fuse.
Each of the new fuses replaces the 17 and 31 fuses (both of which are 20A) from the CJB, as they lead to the two doors. 17 being Rear Right, and 31 being Rear Left.
I have done your modification and it has worked brilliantly, windows now go up and down whenever I want them too.
I did the R1 removal method like you said you did.
I have noticed today though that my phone charger does not work in the power supply at front or in middle and back of car? It works in actual cigarette lighter still? Could this be an fuse problem now with the Auxs? What would happen if I plug R1 back in? Does it control Aux also?
Thanks
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| 20th Apr 2020 9:05 pm |
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barce1987
Member Since: 18 Jun 2014
Location: barnsley
Posts: 33
 
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I have a problem with my rear near side window. It goes down but won't go up. Done a multimeter test and there no power.. All other windows are fine any ideas or could this still be relay issue? Thanks Dean
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| 25th Jun 2020 8:10 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10374
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there aren't any relays. It's a basic system.
is it the same from both front drivers and rear switches?
where did you put your multimeter
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| 25th Jun 2020 8:40 am |
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barce1987
Member Since: 18 Jun 2014
Location: barnsley
Posts: 33
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Same with both switches pal. And I disconnected the motor wire and put the multi meter in them two wires. 11. Odd v going down. Nothing when press up
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| 25th Jun 2020 8:52 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10374
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my hunch would be the rear switch
but first test the wiring between the rear swich and motor
do you get 12v on at wire at the switch?
you could also take the rear switch from the other side to see if that works. (on the faulty side)
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| 25th Jun 2020 1:16 pm |
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barce1987
Member Since: 18 Jun 2014
Location: barnsley
Posts: 33
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Yes pal I get 12v but only going down. With rear switch and driver switch. But will try off side rear door switch see if that works. thank you very much for your help
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| 25th Jun 2020 1:26 pm |
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Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1783
 
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I think that the 12v is common to the switch and only puts it to the motor depending whether the switch is pulled up or pushed down. This suggests switch as a possible problem. If it does not work from either drivers door of rear door switches then possibly the motor
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| 26th Jun 2020 5:30 am |
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ohbatey
Member Since: 05 Jul 2020
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 4
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Thanks for all the input on this, my 09 disco has exactly the same issue, I will be carrying out your recommended repair !! Spot on
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| 24th Feb 2021 2:57 pm |
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USLR3
Member Since: 07 Oct 2022
Location: LEES SUMMIT
Posts: 1
 
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Hello all from across the pond.
I recently picked up a 2007 LR3 that has seen some better days. One of the issue I was trying to resolve was the rear windows not working. I read countless threads saying to look at the splicing in the door jams and check the switches and so on. I started with the basics and found the fuse to be good but no power at the fuses. A consultation with the wiring diagram showed me the fuses were fed by the window relay. Unfortunately as many of you know and have learned, it is not an easily serviceable item. So through image searching on Google I came across an image tied to this page when trying to find the relay. That lead me to the fixes that have been put forth on this thread. I decided to take my own spin at it and found what I think is a pretty easy method for resolve. I took 3 fuse taps and soldered the wire ends together. From there I picked the accessory/auxiliary circuit like many suggested. I picked the fuse for the auxiliary plug number 3 on the fuse block because it is also protected by the relay. From there I plugged in one use tap with two 15amp fuses. I did this so that just in case an overload would blow a fuse and not cook any wiring. Fires are bad. From there I took the other two fuse taps and plugged them into the locations for F17 and F31 for the rear windows. I used the 20 amp fuse there just for sale of testing. See picture attached I'm the gallery for my method. Took me all of 15 minutes to make this solution work. I hope it helps others like this thread and group helped me.
Always start with the basics. If no power at the fuses then the issue is the un replaceable window relay. Use the solutions presented from this group for how to bypass the relay and enjoy a cheap and easy fix for non working rear windows.
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| 7th Oct 2022 7:03 pm |
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TommyMechanic
Member Since: 12 Jun 2023
Location: Vestby
Posts: 1
 
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Hello to all of you!
Fantastic solution to a problem I've had for a few years, interesting to see the development here.
Thanks to all of you!
The case is solved but...
1: Must quickly mention that there are differences at CJB's. See my pictures at (the elegant solution belonging to Mr. USLR3 are in) a European HSE. If you compare the USLR3's and my photos, you will see that fuse #47 is positioned differently.
2: One must also pay attention to how the power taps are designed, usually in a fuse-box, the power supply is at the top point and out to the consumer at the bottom. This is important when you have to take and then give power with these, see picture of an opened power tap (of course the easiest way is to measure this).
3: Something to think about is to avoid supplying power to a faulty circuit - there is clearly something wrong with these circuits. With these power taps you can just leave one fuse-slots empty and VIOLA! then no current is sent back into circuits F17 and F31 - see picture. Incidentally, as you can see, a bit tight here and therfor I used a micro-fuse and made it a bit shorter.
4: For information: My rear windows have worked perfectly in minus 7-8 degrees Celsius and colder as well as plus 40 degrees Celsius and warmer - inside the car, but of course not in between these temperatures  Maybe something to refleckt about for those of you who know more about CJB's than I do?
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| 12th Jun 2023 11:39 am |
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leninovich
Member Since: 03 Apr 2020
Location: Chepstow
Posts: 2
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| Rear window won't close or maybe won't open |
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There is sometimes a simple solution to this -
To operate the window motor you efectively make on of the lines live and the other remains earthed. The earth returns for the both rear window switches goes through the relevant switch on the drivers panel on his door.
As the vehicle gets older you can get a build up of crap on the tiny contacts within the rocker switches and therefore a lack of continuity.
You can either replace the whole of the drivers switch panel or actually take it apart and dismantle the affected switch and clean the internal contacts.
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| 3rd Apr 2024 10:37 pm |
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