Anyone successfully removed the cell phone aerial fin / nav aerial from the rear roof of the Disco 3 HSE 2007 model? If so - please tell me how. Land Rover dealer in PMBurg does not have a clue on how to get it off and replace with the LR available blanking plate. I have no use for the built in cell phone holder - nor for the supplied nav system [which is good for the shopping mom's - but hopeless off the beaten track].
If you have - please tell me how you did it. The nut heads have 5-star socket head with central pin to make "tamper-proof" - so I assume must be removed with special tool [which LR South Africa does not have - heaven knows how they replace the roof glass if cracked] - or removed from below under the roof lining?
Really want to use sliding table under Frontrunner Roof rack - but can't do so with the fin "hump" in the way.
Many thanks
Never be afraid to try something new ...
Remember - the Ark was built by amateurs -
The Titanic was built by professionals !!!
19th Feb 2010 5:26 pm
CFB
Member Since: 02 Dec 2005
Location: Bradford, West Yorkshire
Posts: 6100
Odd as when I did the reverse (ie remove blank and fit fin) the fin was secured underneath with 10mm nuts, it was a pig to reach them under the headlining but otherwise straightforward.2020 BMW X1 18d XDrive X-Line Auto
I assume you had to pull down the roof lining to get to where the nuts are? If so - were the nuts exposed or between metal skins which re-enforce the upper boot lid attachment?
Cheers
JohnNever be afraid to try something new ...
Remember - the Ark was built by amateurs -
The Titanic was built by professionals !!!
19th Feb 2010 5:47 pm
CFB
Member Since: 02 Dec 2005
Location: Bradford, West Yorkshire
Posts: 6100
Once the plastic trim at the back was removed I just had to reach in under the roof lining, nuts were exposed. It was not an HSE though so no glass roof which could make a difference I guess.2020 BMW X1 18d XDrive X-Line Auto
Sadly - there is a big difference with the HSE fitted with glass roof. What appears to be the fin top mounting bolts are just above the edge of the glass and appear to go through it. I have not been able to gain access from underneath as yet - so perhaps these are not the bolts with which it is mounted to the roof itself?
I will upload images to gallery in the hopes that someone will have removed a similar unit.
JohnNever be afraid to try something new ...
Remember - the Ark was built by amateurs -
The Titanic was built by professionals !!!
Parts view of Aerial Fin for both roofs in my gallery.
For what it is worth, in my gallery, I have posted the Land Rover parts view pdf of the two different fins for both the Glass and Metal roof Disco3's. The fin for the glass roof shows two security screws that one can get at from on top, (per your posted views), and the metal roof fin shows as unbolting from underneath.
Re the security screws, here in Canada it is quite easy to obtain the appropriate "security" bits as they are imported from China by the container full.
One can find them in what we call here "Dollar Stores". I got my set from an electronics shop however, and sets can be found in the local big box hardware stores as well. I imagine Walmart carries them in the grocery department. Snap On Tool has them, but then that requires an appointment so you can arrange for a Brinks truck.
The Dollar Stores here are outlets that sell stuff from China for a dollar, or as you might guess, a few dollars. More often than not, five dollars will get you about 10 different bits that can be inserted into those hex bit type screwdriver holders.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
Your post particularly useful - my hump is the 18A984A shown on the left in your PDF.
But here's the thing - I can slide a sheet of paper underneath the tamper proof TORX Plus screws [shown as HS2 on your diagram] ... so they don't seem to play any role in mounting the unit to the roof.
The HP1 part shown must be the backing plate - and it too does not have any screws to fasten it. The local dealer supplied me with backing plate HP2 shown in your diagram - but this clearly the wrong one and is intended for the 18A984B unit fitted to the roofs without glass.
The rest of the 18K???? and 19G???? units must be the internal variants of the aerials now used on the vehicles instead of external "humps" or "fins".
The only conclusion I can come to is that the fin is glued to the glass roof. Now to find a solvent to get it off without damage!Never be afraid to try something new ...
Remember - the Ark was built by amateurs -
The Titanic was built by professionals !!!
Maybe glue on to the glass makes the most sense, with a conductor wire going thru the hole where the plastic filler would be for the "no fin" units, (my LR3 HSE for instance).
When removing letters, badges etc from painted surfaces, say for when the guys do not want any visible engine etc designation, some use dental floss as the cutting agent.
The idea is that the "string" slips under the letter and cuts away the adhesive without damaging the paint. This technique would seem also to work re the fin - at least it does not cost much to try and no damage should occur if the procedure did not work.
If it did work, one would have to work from all sides as the centre conductor wire would not allow the string to cut thru in one pass as per the badge removal.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
It seems the only glued section is over the glass roof area. The section of the fin closest to the boot lid has a soft rubber fringe skirting the metal bodywork - and dental floss goes straight underneath to plastic "tube" [about 25mm diameter, 3mm deep] which protects the aerial cable as it goes through the car body work into the rear of the fin.
I will attempt to cut away with dental floss - although it seems there is a rubber pad which is glued to the glass and this is underneath the plastic fin ... making it difficult to get the floss under the rubber to do the cutting flush with the glass.
I will visit auto-glass specialists tomorrow - they must have a technique for removing rear-view mirrors from broken front wind-shields and fitting them to the replaced wind-shield.
Many thanks for your input bbyer.Never be afraid to try something new ...
Remember - the Ark was built by amateurs -
The Titanic was built by professionals !!!
This is going to be interesting. Often the inside mirror mount comes already fused to the glass re new windscreen, not always, but often.
Keep us posted as you might be the first to have the problem, but will not be the last. I see the new LR4's at my dealer all have the glass roof and fin, so it is back again - was kind of gone for a while, but looks to be very standard now for I guess the upscale look?
Also here in Canada, the fin is very status - myself, it just makes the vehicle 2 inches (50 mm) higher in a parking garage, so it is a relief not to have it.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
Lacking a part number, you might try an electrical parts shop. The electrical people have snap in caps to fill holes in panels when conduit is removed. There might be a size the fits.
Most often the caps are metal, but sometimes plastic as well. Regardless, you would probably best use a bit of caulking to ensure a weather seal.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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