Member Since: 13 Feb 2015
Location: Hautes Pyrenees
Posts: 219
Intriguing read.
I have nothing......apart from wishing for simpler days without computers amd rocker covers that were just rocker covers!
16th Jan 2024 3:47 pm
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2889
Always worth checking the pending faults - it can throw light on where the issue isMust stop buying shiny toys....
16th Jan 2024 7:32 pm
gregj47
Member Since: 08 Mar 2014
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 45
Hi
I know you said you have smoke tested it but that doesn’t always show a split manifold. Reason being is it is only when manifold is pressured up by turbo that the split opens up and pressure is lost. If you are just stood blowing smoke Into it at minimal pressure it’s not forced to show itself. When my passenger side manifold went it passed a smoke test but sure enough there was a split in it . Replaced it and no problem since . Hope this helps maybe and ya get sorted 👍
i always check the pending faults , nothing there I am afraid. In fact the IID tool picks up no faults at all beyond a FBH to radio communication error. Both the radio/cd/dvd unit and the FBH work well. I have tried running with both on and both off without any effect on the appearance of the fault. The battery is brand new, not that there was anything wrong with the old one, which is working happily in my other D4.
So my next steps are into the "more in hope than expectation" category. I am going to set up my timed climate, which I have never bothered with, to put a little warmth into it during this cold snap, bring forward a planned dpf flush and check out the auto gearbox filter. The oil is clean but I have no idea if the filter has been ever changed. Might be an idea to check the actual outputs from the alternator too. I don't think that any of this will achieve much but I do go through absolutely everything when I get another Disco just because I can.
A little annoying for sure. My D3 was ultra reliable in comparison. I should never have sold it.2011 D4 HSE, it'll be nice if it ever works!
2014 D4 HSE Luxury. as if one money pit isn't enough!
My old 2005 D3. Now sold after 362000 on the original engine!
Hi
I know you said you have smoke tested it but that doesn’t always show a split manifold. Reason being is it is only when manifold is pressured up by turbo that the split opens up and pressure is lost. If you are just stood blowing smoke Into it at minimal pressure it’s not forced to show itself. When my passenger side manifold went it passed a smoke test but sure enough there was a split in it . Replaced it and no problem since . Hope this helps maybe and ya get sorted 👍
Thanks for that ! I have rechecked for leaks several times and have dismantled various bits known to crack for close inspection without any success at all. I have another D4 and smoke tested that too, paranoia setting in?, which did throw up a minute leak caused by a degraded O ring. When checking the troublesome D4 for the same degraded O ring I found that it was like new. Strangely disappointed not to find a defect
I have a long distance towing job to do next week and it will be interesting to see what, if anything pops up!2011 D4 HSE, it'll be nice if it ever works!
2014 D4 HSE Luxury. as if one money pit isn't enough!
My old 2005 D3. Now sold after 362000 on the original engine!
19th Jan 2024 11:51 am
Collwyn
Member Since: 16 May 2010
Location: Shetland
Posts: 37
Have a look at how clear your DPF is. I had one that was more than 28g and it threw up a restricted performance but no DPF or other codes. Had to do a forced regen to take it down past 6g - took about 2 hours of driving. Your iid will tell you what the status is and it can do the forced regen.
24th Mar 2024 8:31 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 103
Hi OP
Just read through your thread and it (aside from being paining to read of your D4 RP Issues), was a well written thread, so thank you.
Wondering if you ever had the RP issue come back? or did you, in the end, put it down to the cold starts?
I have a similar issue on mine, but still awaiting the time to make my own smoke machine so as to test the manifolds for air leaks. I have cleaned the MAF sensors with some MAF cleaner, but alas to no avail.
I got the car with the Restricted Performance error, and so I have known nothing different.
Yesterday however, having found out that the steering angle was out, and rectifying it with a quick calibration on the IID, I was surprised to see that all of my faults had disappeared, including the dreaded RP one. So we took it for a quick test drive, and my oh my, the car!
With a big smile on our faces, driving onwards, but no - it was back.
So here I am checking the best place on the internet for posts about similar issues.
thanks!
8th Apr 2024 10:14 am
HairyFool
Member Since: 04 Jan 2023
Location: North Essex
Posts: 672
Mine is at the garage being looked at under warranty for RP, a fault code was generated for an intake air leak. The dealership that did the belts change checked it in case it was something they did and they found a blown seal on the recirculator valve.
In my case it didn't occur during accelration/overrun but under steady speed on cruise control at around 65-70mph. This occurred last week yet a run to the West Country and back a month ago was faultless, the crud stuck to the valve looks like it has been blowing for a time.A visitor from the dark side, my other vehicle is an is still an EV. Strictly speaking its SWMBO.
8th Apr 2024 6:01 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 103
Alas I still have the Restricted Performance Issue, and trawling the forum I came across this thread, read it from start to finish, only to find that the last but one comment was my own!
OP - a very well and detailed written thread, but wondering what the outcome was. HairyFool commented on his and I have also been busy with changing that recirculate valve that he mentions (I have put details on a different thread with pictures).
The only other obvious thing on mine is a whooshing noise when you take your foot off the accelerator.
4th Jun 2024 10:14 pm
stick
Member Since: 13 Jan 2010
Location: hants
Posts: 604
How old is your D4? THe early ones had a problem with (I think) a sticking turbo actuator valve. My 2010 model had to have it replaced after about three years, and it was a common fault at the time. I am sure you could find it on here if you search. Mine had the whistle on over-run, that's why i mention it.d4 HSE
5th Jun 2024 7:31 am
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 103
Hi Stick
Mine is also a 2010. I've done that many searches on Turbos and valves i'm actually lost.
Anyone got an exploded diagram that can point at which one this Turbo Actuator Valve is please?
thanks
onetwentie.
5th Jun 2024 8:41 am
stick
Member Since: 13 Jan 2010
Location: hants
Posts: 604
Turbo boost solenoid valve - I was close!
hope I have pasted that link correctly, let me knowd4 HSE
5th Jun 2024 1:14 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 103
Hi Stick - thanks, and yeah the link worked.
so it is the same thing that we are talking about..
this is a picture I got when I googled that part number as mentioned in the thread you pasted the link for.
Click image to enlarge
and that part is the one that drives the flap thing which closes off. from my pictures it can be seen attached to the whole thing (on the bottom left of the picture)
Click image to enlarge
I'm pretty sure it's shot, because the actuator arm wasn't moving without having to put a lot of pressure on it by hand.
I have seen a used on, which I will go to look at after work on Friday possibly. New one isn't cheap!
5th Jun 2024 3:16 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 103
So got a used part after work on Friday, and before I even fitted I tried to actuate the arm from the vacuum chamber on the Shut off valve, and I could easily move it..
Needless to say Saturday was straight at the car, removed the fuse for the suspension, jacked it up, axles stands both sides, removed the driver's side front wheel, wheel arch, and wheel arch liner.
Removed the old one, and replaced with the new one. Switched on the ignition to listen to the actuator sound, but only heard that from the passenger side. Revved the car to 3000 rpm, and way and behold NO LIMP MODE (or RESTRICTED PERFOMRANCE to be correct).
Everything back on, took it for a drive.. and my oh my. How different the car drives when it's normal!
Thank you to all who helped on the forum, and hope this helps someone else too!
I have eventually found the cause of my restricted performance issue thanks to an eagle eyed mechanic at a local independent specialist.
I was unfortunate in having a deer strike early one morning. I was somewhat lucky as no bodywork was damaged with the deer going right under the disco front to back. Busted front tow hitch cover was about the extent of it if you disregard the entrails etc. The deer did appear to hit into the exhaust system though bending the pipework up a little. I began to hear a hiss which increased over several miles and turned into a definite blow. Closer scrutiny revealed exhaust soot appearing where it shouldn't. Cracked manifold possibly. I don't have access to a lift so I got it booked into to an indy to investigate further. Turned out that some exhaust studs had failed so body off for stud extraction etc. At this point the mechanic spotted a small sooty mark on one of the EGR pipes which proved to be a split about 3mm long. Not corroded just a small manufacturing defect. As a matter of course the pipes were changed out while access was easy.
Back on the road the intermittent fault didn't reappear although new ones did post the work. With all these fixed the car has done over 6k since without any fault beyond camber issues caused by the impact. I'm considering uncrossing my fingers....almost, but it is a D4 and there has to be a little warning light there ...somewhere... poised ..waiting for my guard to drop 2011 D4 HSE, it'll be nice if it ever works!
2014 D4 HSE Luxury. as if one money pit isn't enough!
My old 2005 D3. Now sold after 362000 on the original engine!
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I have rechecked for leaks several times and have dismantled various bits known to crack for close inspection without any success at all. I have another D4 and smoke tested that too, paranoia setting in?, which did throw up a minute leak caused by a degraded O ring. When checking the troublesome D4 for the same degraded O ring I found that it was like new. Strangely disappointed not to find a defect 
