There are many different views on the READ belt (fuel pump) belt replacement, and so I have decided to post my own experience here.
Since owning a D4 SDV6 in Angola, I have wanted one in France, but failed to find one with the spec that I required. I finally found a 2014 in Germany which met my spec. Initially, I found it sluggish, and not as smooth on idle as the D4 from Angola, but then this one had a DPF, and a cat (I removed the CAT in Angola ). The car had 135,000km and was 8 years old, so the belts needed changing.
The first job was the timing belt. Much ink has been spilled on the subject so I will not add more, except to say that the original belt timing was off on the left crankshaft. There was no stretch on the original belt, nor any noticeable wear. With some fiddling, I got this perfect - the pins just slid in and out with ease with the flywheel locked. As changing the rear belt has little to do with the front, I put it back together and tested.
What a difference. Smooth and much more responsive, if still a touch hesitant on a sharp pull away. So now to the rear belt. Here is the procedure that I used (which is much different from that proposed in other posts in this thread, and by Topix. I will post in a follow on post so as not to confuse with this preamble
27th Nov 2022 1:44 pm
SteveLad
Member Since: 27 Nov 2022
Location: Pau
Posts: 10
This procedure applies to a 2014 LHD D4 SDV6 - there may be differences with other years or RHD.
Prerequisites
Do the front timing belt first. The front has to be perfectly timed to get the maximum benefit from the READ belt change.
Buy an endoscope. This will save you much dithering and a lot of time. I used a Depstech DS550 (c 130 Euros)
You will ned the locking tool for the injection pump (the belt marks are not sufficient as the pump has to be locked to set the vernier on the cam pulley and yes it is not necessarily right - my pump timed in the factory was 180 Degrees off, and the vernier settings were different as well as I had a adjusted the front pulley)
You will need the bolt from the front tensioner with the head ground off while retaining the length, and a slot or small flats cut into it. This is about 1cm longer that the READ tensioner bolt.
Some polystyrene foam and some string.
Patience, determination, and pain inhibitors - your hands will show signs of wear!
Procedure
1. Lower the vehicle to access height and lock
2. Release the battery cable tray that runs across the centre back and fold it gently forward onto the engine.
The cover is held on with 4 plastic riv bolts that are threaded to facilitate removal. Once these are released, the cover slides off to the right viewed from the front of the engine. The tray is held in place by 4 nuts (10mm). Bend the right side of the the support bracket up to improve clearance. The result looks like this.
3. Disconnect this cable and place out of way on right covers
4. Remove the right hand cover stud
5. Remove the egr to heater steel pipe that runs across the back of the engine. With care, coolant will drain back into the engine when the hoses are released. There are 3 hoses to release and two screws that secure the pipe in place
6. Remove the oil separator vacuum hose. This does not affect access, but these hoses are very fragile where they join the rubber tee, and so to avoid unnecessary damage when you are on the engine, best removed
7. Release the crankcase breather pipe top end.
Undo 2 bolts, remove clips and then release backward. Bolts are screwed from behind and the second one is just behind the belt cover
8. Release the vacuum pipe that runs across the back of the belt cover.
9. Release the Y harness that runs up the back of the engine and is white at the top. There is 1 fir clip and 1 squeeze clip. They are all hard to see but this is essential.
10. Release the main engine harness. There is one bolt in the support bracket (10mm) just below where the heater pipe was fixed, and then 2 fir clips, one just behind and one further down to the left.
11. Release the small harness that runs around the injector pump head.
The right most clip in this photo is mounted on a bolt. Pull it off and then unscrew the nut underneath. This is the securing nuts for the bracket. The other bolt is below the two bolts that secured the heater pipe. With this removed, the bracket can now be eased out.
12.Remove the READ belt cover. There are two spring clips to release, and then it has to be eased back via a small slot near the center pin. Ease it back, lift it up and manoeuvre it out in a folding movement over the bracket support.
13. Using a 21mm socket on the crankshaft, rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the crankshaft pulley is at 12:00.
14. Raise the car with a suitable jack and axle stands.
15. Release the starter motor and its support bracket, remove the grommet and with a colleague rotate the crankshaft slowly clockwise until you can insert the flywheel looking tool (the camshaft pulley mark will now be at around 11:00 seen from the back of the engine
16. Lower the vehicle
17. Now inspect the timing mark on the FIP - it should be nearly at 12:00. The photo below is wrong .
This can be corrected by rotating the FIP pulley using a suitable socket - easiest - or as pointed out in later posts, by unblocking the flywheel, rotating the crank twice, and then relocking.
Click image to enlarge
18. Now cut the belt. A small hacksaw blade and lots of care is easiest
19. Remove the old belt
20. Remove the old tensioner (10mm)
21. If the FIP mark was off, rotate it clockwise seen from the front of the car using a 24mm low profile socket until the mark is just before 12:00 and easily visible (i used a BAHCO S140T through socket set which is perfect for the limited space). The pump will move relatively easily so you will not release the bolt. We will set it up properly later
22. Insert the new belt over the pulleys, text facing you and with the two timing marks approximately in the right place, the priority is to get the FIP mark aligned with the appropriate mark on the FIP pulley. Once in place it will not move off of this position due to its curvature and a small plastic lug in the casing at the bottom that helps keep it in place.
23. Insert the special bolt that you made earlier into the tensioner hole. Screw it in by hand until it is firmly held by the threads (about 4 turns)
Click image to enlarge
24. This bolt will help keep the belt located in the cam pulley.
25. Release the 3 cam pulley vernier bolts (max 2 turns - just enough so that you can move it)
Click image to enlarge
26. Now align the belt mark with the cam pulley The belt marks should now be aligned on both pulleys.
The form of the new belt will probably make it want to move off the cam pulley. Insert a a piece of folded polystryrene foam, attached to a piece of string in case it falls) in between the belt and the top of the casing to keep the teeth engaged and the mark in the right place
Click image to enlarge
27. Now thread the new tensioner over the stud,keeping the locking pin at around 5:00.
28. Work the belt onto the tensioner. Once it is well positioned, rotate the tensioner body gently clockwise (seen from the front of the engine) pushing it towards the front, until you feel the tang slot into place. Once in place work the belt further on to the tensioner, and ensure that the tebnsioner is fully seated.
Click image to enlarge
29. Now remove the stud, taking care not to unseat the tensioner (I used an old square brake pipe spanner over the stud angled away from the engine -it should come easily as it is not blocked). The tang and the belt will keep the tensioned in place as long as you do not unseat it.
30. Place the new bolt into the tensioner and loosely tighten it.
31. The belt should now be well seated. Remove the polystyrene and check the two timing marks. If all is good, tighten the tensioner bolt (23Nm - a normal 10mm spanner and a firm hand)
Click image to enlarge
This photo was taken before the tensioner was in place - your belt should be firmly seated.
Click image to enlarge
32. Now release the tensioner, pulling the locking pin out.
33. Put the FIP locking tool into place and rotate the FIP clockwise as necessary until all 3 pins are seated correctly (put a piece of string on the tool secured somewhere to the body just in case it falls )
Click image to enlarge
34. With the FIP locked, tighten the cam vernier bolts (23Nm).
35. Remove the FIP locking tool.
36. Raise the vehicle and remove the flywheel locking tool
37. Install the blanking grommet and the starter motor (47Nm all 5 bolts)
38. Lower the vehicle
39. Rotate the crankshaft 2 turns to correctly seat the belt
40. Thats it. The rest is the reverse of the removal.
This is the only way that you can install the belt without damage, and perfectly timed. The results on mine were stupendous - instant acceleration from still (no more awkward pauses at roundabouts); fuel economy better, and it just roars.
Its a pity that some poor Germans drove 135,000 with a motor that was handicapped by bad manufacturing
Good luck and I hope that this helps - I'm off for another drive to celebrate!!!
Last edited by SteveLad on 17th Dec 2022 9:52 am. Edited 1 time in total
27th Nov 2022 4:04 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
If the FIP is 180 degrees out, you need to rotate the engine another 2 revolutions
What you have done isn't "wrong" but it saves you having to faff around with the pump pulley My D3 Build Thread
Beg to disagree Disco Mike - the cam rotates at 1/2 crank speed, the FIP at crank speed. Rotate as much as you like, it will always be 180 deg out IMHO
Update 17/12/22. The cam pulley is 1.5 times the FIP pulley (see later post). Disco_Mikey is correct.
And the proof of the pudding is in the result - NASA have been intouch for the next moon launch
Last edited by SteveLad on 17th Dec 2022 9:31 am. Edited 1 time in total
27th Nov 2022 4:36 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
Wow
I've done more of these than you've had hot dinners. You started with the pump 180 degrees out
What you are actually supposed to do is rotate the engine as many times as necessary to line up the timing marks on the pulleys with the timing marks on the belt. But that takes too long My D3 Build Thread
OK - so you have done this job (many more times - 1) than me.
Lets reason: You find an error in the front timing belt and adjust the left cam (right viewed from the front) as a result. Now your READ cam and injection pump are automatically out.
Agreed its a common rail system, but JLR introduced with the SDV6 the notion of FIP timing. On a 300TDI, this much change would make a difference, and I am saying that this makes a difference on an SDV6!
Finally, my main point was how to install the belt without damaging its lubricative coating - sure you can scrape it over the FIP, but even JLR do not recommend, hence their warning.
You are working on the assumption that all was right from manufacture - I am saying that after all the effort to get there, what is the issue with checking the FIP timing (excluding expediency, speed, cost - after 7 years a few extra minutes)?
27th Nov 2022 5:10 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
There is no issue with checking the FIP timing. What I'm saying is had you rotated the crank another 2 times, the marks would have aligned. There is no need to rotate the HPFP pulley (unless the pump timing is out, but 180 degrees isn't out)
Whether the FIP timing makes a difference on a CR setup, I have no idea (I understand the theory though) . I've never come across one with the timing out nor have I set one up with the timing out, so I can't say either wayMy D3 Build Thread
With the aid of 2 images, I would like to refute the claims of the esteemed contributor in the preceding post (and without wishing to start a flame war with someone who has contributed enormously to this forum); notwithstanding which the truth must out ).
1. The below image shows that the hpfp pulley is 1/2 the diameter of the cam pulley ( i have also counted the teeth on the real thing ). Therefore, no matter how many times (or hot meals) you turn the cam pulley, if it is 180 deg out (that is not both marks at the top at the same time), it will always be 180 deg out - basic mathematics.
2. 180 deg is out. The HPFP has 2 chambers, each delivering to one bank of the engine through dedicated pipes (2 & 3 below). For balancing, there is a connecting pipe. For optimal performance, the timing has to be that the pump delivers to the bank where the injector is situated as it opens. If it is 180 deg out, it will still deliver, but to the wrong bank and then by the balancing pipe (1 below) and performance is reduced, as the path is longer, and it has a smaller diameter. This is real precision to optimise performance.
Ultimately, the proof is in the pudding; it works - correcting the timing has brought radical new life to my Disco!
Last edited by SteveLad on 17th Dec 2022 9:34 am. Edited 1 time in total
29th Nov 2022 8:13 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20731
We have a couple of D4 body off's next week, I'll take pictures. Will that satisfy you then?My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 13 Apr 2018
Location: Weymouth
Posts: 261
SteveLad wrote:
With the aid of 2 images, I would like to refute the claims of the esteemed contributor in the preceding post (and without wishing to start a flame war with someone who has contributed enormously to this forum); notwithstanding which the truth must out ).
1. The below image shows that the hpfp pulley is 1/2 the diameter of the cam pulley ( i have also counted the teeth on the real thing ). Therefore, no matter how many times (or hot meals) you turn the cam pulley, if it is 180 deg out (that is not both marks at the top at the same time), it will always be 180 deg out - basic mathematics.
2. 180 deg is out. The HPFP has 2 chambers, each delivering to one bank of the engine through dedicated pipes (2 & 3 below). For balancing, there is a connecting pipe. For optimal performance, the timing has to be that the pump delivers to the bank where the injector is situated as it opens. If it is 180 deg out, it will still deliver, but to the wrong bank and then by the balancing pipe (1 below) and performance is reduced, as the path is longer, and it has a smaller diameter. This is real precision to optimise performance.
Ultimately, the proof is in the pudding; it works - correcting the timing has brought radical new life to my Disco!
I have no idea how many engines were built like mine, but various symptoms such as lag at roundabouts etc, possibly attributable to other causes, which I had experienced, are now gone.
Can you confirm that during the READ belt timing process you performed that the cam pulleys had the timing pins inserted and the flywheel had the locking pin inserted?Gone 2016 Landmark D4
Current 2015 HSE D4 - AKA - 'Gandalf the Grey'
13th Dec 2022 9:20 am
SteveLad
Member Since: 27 Nov 2022
Location: Pau
Posts: 10
As written up, the flywheel was locked. Before doing the READ belt, the front belt should be done, so if that is correct, no need to put cam locking pins in (particularly as that requires timing cover removal unless you are doing both at same time)
13th Dec 2022 12:46 pm
Weyboat
Member Since: 13 Apr 2018
Location: Weymouth
Posts: 261
The crankshaft/flywheel has to revolve two full revolutions for the cams to revolve once, this means the hole in the flywheel for the locking pin will be visible twice whilst the cams turn just once.
So, it looks like you started off with the cams 180 degrees out as Disco_Mikey said.Gone 2016 Landmark D4
Current 2015 HSE D4 - AKA - 'Gandalf the Grey'
13th Dec 2022 3:14 pm
SteveLad
Member Since: 27 Nov 2022
Location: Pau
Posts: 10
If that was the case, why was the rear cam pulley in the correct position - it is key locked with the front!!
I can prove that it was 180 out at the pump, and the results speak for themselves. For what DM says to be true, the Cam pulley would have to be 1.5 or 2.5 times the diameter of the FIP pulley - it is not (see the attached simulation - not perfect but clear enough to demonstrate the point)
Update 17/12/22. The cam pulley is 1.5 times the FIP pulley (see later post). Disco_Mikey is correct.
Last edited by SteveLad on 17th Dec 2022 9:35 am. Edited 1 time in total
13th Dec 2022 4:39 pm
Weyboat
Member Since: 13 Apr 2018
Location: Weymouth
Posts: 261
I take your point and agree with you, obviously when you noticed the pump pulley with its timing mark at the bottom you would have checked the cam pulley and you found it to be at the top!
In fact by turning the pump pulley 180 degrees you have swapped the fuel timing of the two fuel delivery oulets from one bank to the other and vice-versa.
This is very interesting!Gone 2016 Landmark D4
Current 2015 HSE D4 - AKA - 'Gandalf the Grey'
13th Dec 2022 5:44 pm
SteveLad
Member Since: 27 Nov 2022
Location: Pau
Posts: 10
Thank you.
Actually, as per Topix (and my post), I set the cam pulley first and noticed that the FIP pulley was 180 deg out.
I have no idea how many engines were built like this; I can only say that there are several (many) posters and threads about hesitation at roundabouts etc; symptoms that I had experienced and no longer see.
My motive for changing the belt was nothing to do with this (it was age); I am merely citing the results.
Be careful of stealers when changing this belt, as, no matter how many hot dinners they have had, if they do not check the timing, bad initial timing will equal bad new timing.
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). The car had 135,000km and was 8 years old, so the belts needed changing.
