Member Since: 03 Jan 2017
Location: Dolné Mladonice
Posts: 8
secondary turbo
hello
i have a problem, Can you help me?
i replace secondary turbo on RR 2010 3,0 D, becouse behind car was blue smoke. no fail code. in turbo was small amount of oil. now when is replace i have error code p1274-00, p0235-94 and when drive Blink me restricted performance on me, where Can be problem? thx
9th Aug 2021 1:32 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10732
is the actuator free to move?
is the electric plugged in ?
9th Aug 2021 2:52 pm
ycon
Member Since: 03 Jan 2017
Location: Dolné Mladonice
Posts: 8
hi
electric IS All ok..
IS on second (right, small) turbo actuator to see to move?
9th Aug 2021 4:36 pm
OvalAutos
Member Since: 28 Dec 2018
Location: Cradley Heath
Posts: 382
Sounds like you have a vacuum pipe problem. The secondary turbo is vacuum operated and monitored by an electrical sensor on the turbo. When the PCM (Power Control Module) requests extra boost from the secondary turbo, the vacuum pulls the bypass closed to allow the turbo to spin up. If the bypass does not close, the sensor reports it to the PCM and you get those DTCs'.
Now, it could be that if everything is properly connected, you really do have a stuck bypass valve or faulty position sensor.
Check this out....
Joe
10th Aug 2021 6:33 am
ycon
Member Since: 03 Jan 2017
Location: Dolné Mladonice
Posts: 8
we dont have vacuum in pipe... how Can we test where is problem
10th Aug 2021 12:13 pm
ycon
Member Since: 03 Jan 2017
Location: Dolné Mladonice
Posts: 8
ok now we test All electric cables and was ok, All valves IS function, but not vacum going inside.. we test turbo as on video and we have oposite values Ohm.. going from Up to Down, but old turbo and new have same Ohm values.. what now 😔 ? IS somehow test IT on place in garage? when is body on?
Have you tested the TSOV valve they are known to stick and sieze up, the Valve vacuum is pipe come from the front center of the engine from the small vac chamber, check that this ok as well.
Flack
11th Aug 2021 12:36 pm
ycon
Member Since: 03 Jan 2017
Location: Dolné Mladonice
Posts: 8
tsov IS ok, IS moving, but in pipe coming to tsov dosent have vacuum..
I had a D4 where the back of the vac chamber had a crack in it and it would not create the vac needed to operate the TSOV, remove it check that, if the belts have been done recently then this needs checking.
Flack
11th Aug 2021 4:27 pm
ycon
Member Since: 03 Jan 2017
Location: Dolné Mladonice
Posts: 8
thx for reply, vac chamer IS ok, IT Has vacum, than pipe IS going to ventil(valve) with 3 conections.. behind it we dont have vaccum, ventil IS ok.. when we add 12v .. system IS going normal, as control modul dosent give him the signal to open it.. and get vaccuum behind it
11th Aug 2021 5:22 pm
OvalAutos
Member Since: 28 Dec 2018
Location: Cradley Heath
Posts: 382
If it was working before, then you need to trace back on everything you've touched or disturbed.
Like Flack mentioned the vac chamber is critical. Make sure the "T" pipe that connects to it has a good firm engagement. These rubber vac pipes get soft and will weep.
Also worth checking the connection to the vac pump in case it is not clicked in properly.Joe
13th Aug 2021 10:15 am
ycon
Member Since: 03 Jan 2017
Location: Dolné Mladonice
Posts: 8
thanks so much.. problem was in new turbo.. we change it with old and we dont have error code.. today we mount new new turbo from another company and All IS ok.. 5 days gone with diagnositc.. searching All cables and pipes.. 3 times car body on and problém in new turbo...
thx
17th Aug 2021 9:24 am
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 105
"Sounds like you have a vacuum pipe problem. The secondary turbo is vacuum operated and monitored by an electrical sensor on the turbo. When the PCM (Power Control Module) requests extra boost from the secondary turbo, the vacuum pulls the bypass closed to allow the turbo to spin up. If the bypass does not close, the sensor reports it to the PCM and you get those DTCs'.
Now, it could be that if everything is properly connected, you really do have a stuck bypass valve or faulty position sensor."
Hi OvalAutos - I'm trying to diagnose mine and I was able to remove it off the car, found the vacuum actuator quite difficult to move (like I had to press down with both hands) - unfortunately I do not have a vacuum tester.
But I'm curious about the part that the electrical connector plugs into (the black part in the 2 pictures below):
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
My question is:
Is this part a solenoid valve or a position sensor? Is the actuation only done by vacuum? with the connector simply/only monitoring the state/position of the valve diaphragm?
Thanks
6th Jun 2024 3:42 pm
HairyFool
Member Since: 04 Jan 2023
Location: North Essex
Posts: 704
Just replaced mine due to a casting crack. The solenoid activated a flap on the small pipe and as it is only 2 wire with no feedback is on or off.
The vacuum solenoid should activate at around 2500 rpm and should positively click over. I didn’t have a vacuum source either but it took some force to overcome the spring it but when it did it was smooth and moved easily.
LRTime have a video of Christian looking for an intake leak with a smoke machine which explains it a bit and the valve shifted with a small pop as he pumped a vacuum on it. (Christian has a GOOD toolkit)A visitor from the dark side, my other vehicle is an is still an EV. Strictly speaking its SWMBO.
6th Jun 2024 7:02 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 105
I've seen the video from LRTime - been a subscriber for a long time! Thanks for the heads up though.
I actually made a smoke detector having watched Christian's video, that was what ruled the intake manifold out (thankfully!).
Coming back to this actuator - if the electrical connector is just a sensor to tell the car if the flap is open or closed, then for sure the flap is actuated by the vacuum alone?
Also given mine was so stiff to move (the actuator arm), I'm guessing that's the culprit.
Taking the car on a run today showed that the RP would come and go (upon switching the engine off and back on again), but the moment the 2800 revs are reached, straight back into limp mode. So I think it's fair to say my diagnosis is complete.
I'm hoping to get my hands on a replacement one tomorrow, once replaced will test and update this thread for sure!
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