How will i be able to find the source of the leak without a working compressor?
I wasn't suggesting you don't get a new compressor, just that you need to fix what ever was wrong in the first place too.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
17th Jan 2021 9:21 pm
Gmcc
Member Since: 12 Mar 2015
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 153
Aye, okay. Was just the way it read . I’ve been out to the car and checked fuses and the relay under the bonnet beside the battery. Is there any others hidden away somewhere? They all seem fine.
Have been reading... plenty threads on the air suspension! Haha... Am i correct in saying that if its the original compressor then it’ll be hitachi, and i should therefore get another hitachi as amk one is different in some way? Ive been looking at the ones bearmach.com sell. There’s two on their site for the LR3, one has Dunlop in title the other doesn’t.D3 with lots of d4 extras!
17th Jan 2021 9:44 pm
Simon_CSK
Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 17
It took me less than an hour to fit the compressor and the suspension stood up straight away. I then left it overnight and, having already changed on front strut, thought my problem was cured hover I noticed later on this morning the front was down again. Started her up and up she went but parked up she sat down again at the front. When I get time I will replace the other front airbag and hopefully that will give me a cure.
What I remember from my P38 is that the folds in the rubber can temporarily plug holes or crack which movement can then dislodge and allow the air to escape.
19th Jan 2021 3:42 pm
TT___50
Member Since: 07 May 2017
Location: God’s own Country
Posts: 171
Simon, is it lowering evenly at the front? If so might be front valve block or surrounding pipes. Worth checking before buying another strut as easy to do. Can also get an o ring kit cheaply to refurb
19th Jan 2021 5:05 pm
Gmcc
Member Since: 12 Mar 2015
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 153
Just to keep this thread updated... I’ve ordered a complete amk kit. Bought from island-4x4. Seemed the best priced when looking around. So hopefully that turns up later this week and i can get it on, and then see what’s what with the rest of the system D3 with lots of d4 extras!
19th Jan 2021 7:44 pm
Simon_CSK
Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 17
TT___50 wrote:
Simon, is it lowering evenly at the front? If so might be front valve block or surrounding pipes. Worth checking before buying another strut as easy to do. Can also get an o ring kit cheaply to refurb
Yes dropping evenly. It could be the valve block and for all that is involved it would be a quick fix.
I bought a car for spares so have everything standing by. (Assuming the two cars have identical parts)
19th Jan 2021 8:03 pm
AACSC
Member Since: 22 Mar 2014
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 67
Hi Gmccen to the
I have recently experienced the same problem with my D3 ie the front suspension dropping.
The imperative is to try and identify the leak, I tried soapy water but no conclusive result.
I found that the best solution was to remove the front offside wheel and wheel arch liner and disconnect the 6mm pipes serving the left and right struts. I then attached a connector with a schraeder fitting to both 6mm pipes and using a foot pump inflated the struts to 30psi. I monitored the pressures over 12 hours and if the pressure is maintained it rules out any problem with the pipe, strut or strut connector.
Attention can now be given to the valve block. A common piece of advice is to replace the connectors with brass connectors which are alleged to be superior. On my D3 I purchased a "O" ring seal kit and fitted same to the valve block, I did not find any obvious problem with the seals and I chickened out and purchased a new valve block, problem solved. I did not wish to revisit this area of the car any time soon.
If the above does not solve your problem you are into checking the pipe from the valve block next to the compressor or the main valve block itself.
When removing my compressor I encountered the inevitable problem of getting access to the top retaining bolt. Removing the bolt is one thing putting it back in is a much more serious issue. I found, to my suprise, that a small horizontal slot had been cut into the compressor mounting casting such that the top bolt can be inserted by a couple of threads and the casting, and compressor, slid in behind the head of the bolt. Tightening the bolt is awkward but a lot easier than trying to insert the bolt withe casting in place. I am not sure if the car was produce with the slot as it looked a little crude on my car.
Best of luck.
AACSCGraduate of the FDC ( Fred Dibnah College)
19th Jan 2021 11:44 pm
Simon_CSK
Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 17
TT___50 wrote:
Simon, is it lowering evenly at the front? If so might be front valve block or surrounding pipes. Worth checking before buying another strut as easy to do. Can also get an o ring kit cheaply to refurb
Yesterday I changed the valve and both front struts and the suspension is now properly fixed. Just with the same could be said about the engine which died on its maiden run.
21st Jan 2021 4:36 pm
Gmcc
Member Since: 12 Mar 2015
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 153
I’m getting a fault code for ‘motor temperature’ though, which is throwing on the amber suspension light...
Looking at the data, the motor temperature is 11 degrees. Doesn’t seem to be changing.
Thoughts? D3 with lots of d4 extras!
22nd Jan 2021 6:09 pm
Gmcc
Member Since: 12 Mar 2015
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 153
The wife took it for a drive (30 minutes or so) after i cleared the motor temp fault, and it didn’t re-appear, and the amber light has remained off. Fingers crossed.
I’ve then spent ten minutes going through some of the measuring blocks looking at values. Heights at the three options are a wee bit out.. by say 20mm.. took some pics. It seems to reach the height selected and the pump continues to run for 30 seconds or so, is this normal?
I’ve set it to off-road height and let the compressor stop running, and ive now pulled fuse 26 (20amp) and will return in the morning and plug in the fuse and diagnostic tool again without the engine running and see what the heights are... First step to understanding where the problems lie that resulted in the compressor giving up the ghost.
Any input most welcome D3 with lots of d4 extras!
22nd Jan 2021 9:27 pm
Gmcc
Member Since: 12 Mar 2015
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 153
So here are the two screeen shots from my heights at off-road position. First one is last night and second is this morning...
Are these typical? Seems to be a fair difference in the heights at the same time.
I should say that the ground isn’t level, it slopes forward and right where it is sat.
Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 17
Gmcc
am I right in thinking that some of the readings appear to have grown overnight? I wouldn't think that is possible with the compressor off.
The settings should be read with the car on a level hard surface as far as I know.
23rd Jan 2021 3:27 pm
Gmcc
Member Since: 12 Mar 2015
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 153
Yep, it does appear like that eh. I suppose the non level ground won’t help. Wasn’t too sure about the low front right too? Although i looks like air bags are holding their air.D3 with lots of d4 extras!
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. I’ve been out to the car and checked fuses and the relay under the bonnet beside the battery. Is there any others hidden away somewhere? They all seem fine.
